Questions for the sewing Gurus

[Pn8hall]

So I just scored a Singer 15-90 at a garage sale and have been playing around with it but I keep running into issues with thread tangles underneath. I have played with tension settings a lot and cant seem to get it figured out. The top stitch seems good and I played around with tension to get bottom stitch looking good but seems that most passes I end up with a tangle underneath the machine. When I try to lift the piece out I end with 4 pieces of thread underneath. There is an extra piece of needle thread that seems to be looped around. I can usually manage to pull it out far enough to cut the threads and when I cut it I can then pull the extra needle thread out and and am left with a piece about 4 inches long in my hand. I am using some nylon upholstery thread with a 16 needle as per the recommendation of thread specs. Fabric is some old wrangler works pants I cut up that feels very similar to cordura or duck canvas perhaps. I tried a new needle and it did 3 passes just fine and then started tangling again. The green thread is needle thread and white is the bobbin. Any ideas what to try? I dissamebled and cleaned the tensioner, bobbin case, and shuttle underneath. Machine is oiled to specs. Its driving me crazy. I played with thread tension and bobbin tension. Thanks in advance Gurus!

 

[WoodBow]

Stitches look ok. Where is it tangling? At start of seam? End of seam? Entire seam?

If at beginning, try holding your two tag ends as you start the seam. Hold them with a little tension towards the outfee side. You can also accomplish this with a magnet onto the bed of the machine.

If at the end of the seam, make sure your needle has started it's down stroke before you lift the presser foot and pull fabric out. If it has not, it is in the process of locking the threads and will create a problem every time. Just finish your seam and then advance the hand wheel until the needle is coming down.

If on entire seam, it is a tension issue. Are you familiar with bobbin case drop test? If not, youtube it. Then you know your bottom tension is perfect or very close and you only need to worry with top tension. If top thread is showing on bottom side, increase top tension. If bottom thread is showing on top side, decrease top tension.

 

[Pn8hall]

It only tangles when i lift presser foot and try to remove the piece but not every time. Stitches are fine when it does it. I will have to keep an eye out and make sure needle is on downstroke as suggested. I have never paid attention to that part.

 

[Dos Perros]

Are you using good quality thread? I've had stupid thread issues when using no name stuff off Amazon.

 

[WoodBow]

It only tangles when i lift presser foot and try to remove the piece but not every time. Stitches are fine when it does it. I will have to keep an eye out and make sure needle is on downstroke as suggested. I have never paid attention to that part.

I would almost guarantee that is the issue then. Took me a long time to figure that out.

 

[valtteri]

What I do when I lift the presser foot is I then rotate the pulley backwards and forwards and only then start pulling the work piece out. This will free up the thread that otherwise might have locked up or tangled and the piece gets out easily. I’m a beginner and can’t explain why, but always works for me.

I also use a Singer 15 and was just setting it up for heavier materials. I am using Gutermann Tera 40 thread and a 100 universal or Jeans needle.

Had to initially fiddle with top and bobbin tension but finally got it set up so that it will punch thru four layers of webbing etc.

I found that I needed to actually set bobbin tension pretty loose and top tension to the max to get the bottom thread to come up through the material nicely.

The whole top/bobbin tension thing puzzled me at first, but after just sticking to trying out different settings I eventually started to understand how the tension correlates to how the thread acts on the fabric. Again, not a pro by any means but now I feel pretty confident in getting the machine to do what I want.

Take a break, get back to it and eventually you’ll get it working!

 

[Pn8hall]

Its Coats and Clark thread from Joanns. Is that decent thread?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Its Coats and Clark thread from Joanns. Is that decent thread?

My wife has used that thread without any issues.

 

[WoodBow]

Thread can definitely be finnicky. It is worth the few bucks more to buy name brand. If you intend to do much sewing at all I really encourage you to buy a cone/spool stand and buy thread in big spools. It is much cheaper that way. Those small spools from walmart seem very inexpensive but they do not go very far on bigger projects.

Even good thread that is old will misbehave. It takes some memory to that coiled shape and is resistant to changing.

 

[philintheblank]

I would try winding the bobbing tighter, that should straighten out the bottom thread.

If you notice extra thread coming out the bottom when you try to pull the material away after finishing a seam, turn the machine by hand until you feel the loop come the hook that rotates around the bobbin. You should see that last loop come out of the hole in the plate and then you should be left with the proper 2 threads (top and bottom)

 

[Pn8hall]

You guys rock. I appreciate all the insight. I will report back when I try the needle on beginning of downstroke trick.

1 more question. What needle and thread for some lightweight pullouts and stuff sacks? Not sure what material just yet but probably some ripstop nylon most likely. Will take advice on inexpensive material for them as well if the ripstop nylon is not a good choice. Figure I will mess a few of them up so dont want to go crazy on material just yet.

 

[Dos Perros]

My wife has used that thread without any issues.

Same.

 

[scott85]

Also depending on the age of the machine it wouldn’t hurt to take it to get serviced to make sure it is running perfect.

 

[philintheblank]

You guys rock. I appreciate all the insight. I will report back when I try the needle on beginning of downstroke trick.

1 more question. What needle and thread for some lightweight pullouts and stuff sacks? Not sure what material just yet but probably some ripstop nylon most likely. Will take advice on inexpensive material for them as well if the ripstop nylon is not a good choice. Figure I will mess a few of them up so dont want to go crazy on material just yet.

Ripstop will work well pull-outs, I haven't made a stuff sack before. I got an 'outdoor use' thread for all my hunting gear that seems to hold up pretty good. You local sewing shop should have something that will suit your needs.When dealing with thinner material, Needle size depends more on the thread size you are using.

Ripstop by the roll sells 2nds material that is about the cheapest you will find but is not in every colour. Used some membrane and 1.1oz silpoly for my light weight pull outs that were left over from another project and it has help up great so far.

 

[cnelk]

1- Get a can of compressed air and blow out, clean and oil the bobbin area.

2- Always hold the tag ends of the thread when starting a stitch

3- Always leave the needle in the fabric when lifting the foot

 

[WoodBow]

You can get 2nds cordura and ripstop off ebay for very cheap. I have used it extensively with no issues.

 

[Pn8hall]

Happy to report that all issues are resolved when I make sure needle is on downstroke before I remove the fabric! Works like a champ now. My machine is from the late 1950s it appears and was well worth the $40 I paid for it! I spent about $10 between a belt and some ring terminals to clean up the wiring so $50 all in. Thanks for all the advice!

 

[CoMtnMike]

dang, a singer 15-90 for $50? Huge score! All of them around here are $200+... I got a 50's/60's Japanese made clone for $60... its working OK, but not as cool as the old black Singer. Each machine I have tried I have had to start with thinner threads like Tera 80 and then work thicker to find the limit for the machine, some just dont seem to liker thicker gear threads no matter how much you mess with the bobin tension. (I borrowed about 3 and was given one that died before buying one).

In addition to making sure the needle is starting down before removing the work, I also made mistakes having the foot down when threading the machine - that results in the top thread not being tensioned at all and a fast birds nest underneath! So another thing to watch out for...

 

[moxford]

Make sure you are using polyester thead and not cotton. Didn't see it noted yet, just the C&C name.

Cheers,
-mox

 

[Pn8hall]

dang, a singer 15-90 for $50? Huge score! All of them around here are $200+... I got a 50's/60's Japanese made clone for $60... its working OK, but not as cool as the old black Singer. Each machine I have tried I have had to start with thinner threads like Tera 80 and then work thicker to find the limit for the machine, some just dont seem to liker thicker gear threads no matter how much you mess with the bobin tension. (I borrowed about 3 and was given one that died before buying one).

In addition to making sure the needle is starting down before removing the work, I also made mistakes having the foot down when threading the machine - that results in the top thread not being tensioned at all and a fast birds nest underneath! So another thing to watch out for...

Yeah I am pretty pumped about the score for sure. Crazy turn of events today also as I was given a Kenmore Model 32 from the late 60's today also. I spent half the day cleaning it up and getting her working again. It was pretty sticky but after a good cleaning and oiling its purring like a kitten. Honestly it might sew better than the Singer but have only run about a dozen stitches so far to test it out. It has a zig zag mode as well as straight stitch although not sure I will need the zig zag could be cool to have at some point. Pretty bizarre how I went from no machines to 2 in a weeks time.

Make sure you are using polyester thead and not cotton. Didn't see it noted yet, just the C&C name.

Cheers,
-mox

The thread I started with is Nylon and have already burnt thru a small spool goofing around with it. I plan to get some polyester thread next.