PRS-ish Tikka Chassis

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Feb 16, 2021
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Tacoma, WA
I have a Tikka action with a 22” Ace SP3 barrel in 6 Creed barrel on it in a Rokstok. Recommendations for a chassis for it?

I originally put it together to hunt with but want to go towards a shorter (~16”) barrel, lighter weight setup in a RS Lite. Turns out I don’t like carrying a 10# rifle around…probably should’ve done the math.

I don’t want to invest in a dedicated 20lb PRS rig and would prefer to stick with the Tikka barreled action I have. Don’t have unlimited funds and the hunting rifle is the priority. The PRS thing is just for fun.

Not seeing much for tikka inlets in chassis beyond the XLR Element so hoping the more chassis-experience folks here can chime in.
 

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You can add weight to a krg bravo as well. My bravo with a heavy arca rail and spigot adds about 5 lb to the gun over a regular stock, and it sits nice on a bag just in front of the mag well.
 
That setup is going to be very rear heavy and have poor balance in any full size aluminum chassis. They're all designed for long heavy barrels. You'll need a ton of weights out on the front end for decent balance. I'd suggest a krg bravo, or xray as they're prob the lightest in the buttstock area.
 
That setup is going to be very rear heavy and have poor balance in any full size aluminum chassis. They're all designed for long heavy barrels. You'll need a ton of weights out on the front end for decent balance. I'd suggest a krg bravo, or xray as they're prob the lightest in the buttstock area.
It can easily be done with an acc if he is using a suppressor. Atleast with either gen premier it can be. Some weight up front will be needed. But you can trim down the rear of an acc pretty well. I balanced my nrl gun fine with a factory tikka ctr contour, a 22” acr 3 isn’t far behind it.

Having owned/own bravos and having shot xrs chassis personally I’d go right for an acc and be done. It’s much more adaptable and cheaper to adapt versus a bravo.
 
It can easily be done with an acc if he is using a suppressor. Atleast with either gen premier it can be. Some weight up front will be needed. But you can trim down the rear of an acc pretty well. I balanced my nrl gun fine with a factory tikka ctr contour, a 22” acr 3 isn’t far behind it.

Having owned/own bravos and having shot xrs chassis personally I’d go right for an acc and be done. It’s much more adaptable and cheaper to adapt versus a bravo.
I will continue shooting suppressed, though I'll probably have the nomad or a-10 on there.
 
I will continue shooting suppressed, though I'll probably have the nomad or a-10 on there.
You would be fine with an older premier or the newer one. The elite might be hard to balance with the steel butt plate.

Here is my premier, at 16lbs with all weights removed and butt stock stripped (adjustment wheels and studs removed, aluminum butt plate). Could easily trim another 7 oz in the grip on that setup.

I use this same chassis for PRS, below is the same chassis weighted up with my 1.25 straight contour PRS barrel.

Even as a casual PRS shooter I could kill a 6 creed barrel in pretty short order. Before you know it you will be into another barrel and will have the opportunity to play with weight more if needed.

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It can easily be done with an acc if he is using a suppressor. Atleast with either gen premier it can be. Some weight up front will be needed. But you can trim down the rear of an acc pretty well. I balanced my nrl gun fine with a factory tikka ctr contour, a 22” acr 3 isn’t far behind it.

Having owned/own bravos and having shot xrs chassis personally I’d go right for an acc and be done. It’s much more adaptable and cheaper to adapt versus a bravo.
I have a few acc elites, with 28in comp contour barrels(with can), and they have zero weights in them, balance 3-4" in front of mag well. Rifles are around 20#. I don't see how a Tikka sporter will balance, but I have not messed with the other mdt chassis.
 
I have a few acc elites, with 28in comp contour barrels(with can), and they have zero weights in them, balance 3-4" in front of mag well. Rifles are around 20#. I don't see how a Tikka sporter will balance, but I have not messed with the other mdt chassis.

Heavy bipod sure helps.
 
I have a Tikka action with a 22” Ace SP3 barrel in 6 Creed barrel on it in a Rokstok. Recommendations for a chassis for it?

I originally put it together to hunt with but want to go towards a shorter (~16”) barrel, lighter weight setup in a RS Lite. Turns out I don’t like carrying a 10# rifle around…probably should’ve done the math.

I don’t want to invest in a dedicated 20lb PRS rig and would prefer to stick with the Tikka barreled action I have. Don’t have unlimited funds and the hunting rifle is the priority. The PRS thing is just for fun.

Not seeing much for tikka inlets in chassis beyond the XLR Element so hoping the more chassis-experience folks here can chime in.
Why not go KRG Bravo?
 
I have a few acc elites, with 28in comp contour barrels(with can), and they have zero weights in them, balance 3-4" in front of mag well. Rifles are around 20#. I don't see how a Tikka sporter will balance, but I have not messed with the other mdt chassis.
The premier (older gen) can be had with an aluminum butt plate. The newer premier just has plastic spacers and no hardware. That and the elite grip is like 11oz or something obnoxious.

I could see it being tough to balance an elite
 
I have a few acc elites, with 28in comp contour barrels(with can), and they have zero weights in them, balance 3-4" in front of mag well. Rifles are around 20#. I don't see how a Tikka sporter will balance, but I have not messed with the other mdt chassis.
It's a 22" Ace SP3 barrel, spiral fluted. Definitely heavier than the factory sporter, I'd guess by ~1lb since my .223 is about a pound lighter.
 
I have a couple of MDT and KRG chassis for my rifles. The MDT Fieldstock is a great first chassis that can do both worlds decently. It has an adjustabe cheek piece and length of pull. I do like the KRG Bravo better but it is both more expensive and heavier.
 
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