Primer pocket Input

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I bought a Ballistic Tools Go No-Go Gauge to help determine when the primer pockets are toast.

I have some brass and when seating the primer it's way too easy. On a scale 1-10 (10 = hardest) probably a 3 +/-.
However, the No-Go side does not go into the pocket.

Thoughts?

I've been reloading a long time. Comfortable with primer seating. Loose is subjective but I really thought with subjective loose the gauge would help me decide if I need to pull the brass.

How loose is too loose is the question? Keep shooting until the No-Go side goes in? Not worth the risk?

Set me straight. Thanks
 
I've loaded a few then discovered the primer had fallen out. I came to the conclusion that those were too loose. That brass was $2ea for blems. Current brass is ADG, was 1x fired, and $.50ea so tossing them will be easier. 3x fired on some and pockets still "snug".
 
You can get yourself some pin gauges. Most new primer pockets are .2085” to .209” so that a .210” primer will fit well. If a .2095” pin will fit, you know you’re getting close. Those can be repaired as well.



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As part of me being unreasonable cheap, I have successfully shot loose 243 Starline reloads with a tiny amount of superglue holding the primer around the edge. Holds pressure just fine. These were with "too easy to seat" cases, not the totally loose, no resistance cases.

I'm going to try this stuff out and see if there's a velocity difference: https://markrongunproducts.com/markron-custom-bullet-and-primer-sealer/
 
You can get yourself some pin gauges. Most new primer pockets are .2085” to .209” so that a .210” primer will fit well. If a .2095” pin will fit, you know you’re getting close. Those can be repaired as well.



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Excellent info. The no-go side measures .2100". I measured several primers they are all .2095".
Per your description, I need to get a pin gauge that matches the primer diameter.
 
I bought a Ballistic Tools Go No-Go Gauge to help determine when the primer pockets are toast.


How loose is too loose is the question? Keep shooting until the No-Go side goes in? Not worth the risk?

Set me straight. Thanks
My suggestion: Throw away the gauge and just go back to tossing brass when the pockets feel loose. If there's any doubt, take a primed case and shake it vigorously while holding it by the neck. If you sling a primer out, it's garbage. If not it's probably OK at least for practice.
 
If a couple hard taps on the bench knocks a fresh primer out, its too loose and I'll toss the brass. I found ginex primers are fatties and will fit securely when others are too loose.
 
You can get yourself some pin gauges. Most new primer pockets are .2085” to .209” so that a .210” primer will fit well. If a .2095” pin will fit, you know you’re getting close. Those can be repaired as well.



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Man... I admit that the things I do to brass won't ever pay me back, and most of it may be just wasting time, but that takes it to a whole new level. I guess if it's $2/per brass and you can crank out 30+ of them an hour then it's good?
 
Alternatively you can experiment with different primers.

Lots and different brands produce different diameters, enough you can usually feel.

Remington always seem to run a hair large.
 
Man... I admit that the things I do to brass won't ever pay me back, and most of it may be just wasting time, but that takes it to a whole new level. I guess if it's $2/per brass and you can crank out 30+ of them an hour then it's good?

You do you. This process works and it’s relatively quick. At the time I created this video, it made sense. Quality brass for that cartridge wasn’t being made yet. What was available was hard to obtain. Now, this process is essentially unneeded with ADG, Petersen and Lapua brass made for just about any chambering. If you were having to pitch brass with 2 or 3 firings on it, then you need to fireform the new virgin brass once to get back into peak accuracy. That’s a pain in the ass to do unnecessarily. There’s definitely a place for this repair


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