Precision Tuning for the Diehard Bowhunter -The Push

[Hawkeye29]

Yeah. It’s a great course. Especially if you do not have a lot of experience tuning. I wouldn’t say it’s “all new” information in there but it does lay out a process based on your skill to get the best possible tune for you. Very thorough.

 

[bisblue]

Really great. So much better than probing the dark and sometimes inaccurate recesses of the internet.

 

[Beendare]

One reason I like trad gear is the simplicity and ease of tuning.

Heres $100 bucks worth of advice- for free;

A bareshaft doesn’t lie.

1) It tells you exactly what the bow needs AND
2) if you are doing something form wise incorrectly.

I think the reason most guys have problems is inconsistencies/poor form…or they have a preconceived idea of what arrow or tip weight they want to use. Nope, let the arrow tell you.

Develop good repeatable form…until then, don’t bother trying to tune, it will just drive you crazy.

 

[Hawkeye29]

One reason I like trad gear is the simplicity and ease of tuning.

Heres $100 bucks worth of advice- for free;

A bareshaft doesn’t lie.

1) It tells you exactly what the bow needs AND
2) if you are doing something form wise incorrectly.

I think the reason most guys have problems is inconsistencies/poor form…or they have a preconceived idea of what arrow or tip weight they want to use. Nope, let the arrow tell you.

Develop good repeatable form…until then, don’t bother trying to tune, it will just drive you crazy.

Probably $1000 in advice. I have a bucket full of misfit arrows because I tried to tune before I could shoot..

 

[Btaylor]

One reason I like trad gear is the simplicity and ease of tuning.

Heres $100 bucks worth of advice- for free;

A bareshaft doesn’t lie.

1) It tells you exactly what the bow needs AND
2) if you are doing something form wise incorrectly.

I think the reason most guys have problems is inconsistencies/poor form…or they have a preconceived idea of what arrow or tip weight they want to use. Nope, let the arrow tell you.

Develop good repeatable form…until then, don’t bother trying to tune, it will just drive you crazy.

100% agree with the exception of wood arrows. With woodies for me it is easier to pick the front weight then right back to what you said. The arrow will tell you what the bow needs.

 

[Beendare]

Look, I’m not trying to wreck The Push opportunity to make money from a business….
Just saying, its not that complicated.

Dial in consistent form first…You are ready to tune when you have good alignment and the exact same draw length and release.

Then use the 3 rivers/ Stu Miller calculator to select a spine size. This chart gets you close if you enter data accurately. It lets you play with spine, length and tip weight to see how it affects tune before you even purchase arrows. Example; In my 53# w/ Selenghas and 55# recurve w/Nikas cut well past center, 400’s, 350’s and 300’s all tune at 31“ to 32” but tip weight varies from 80g to 250g ( verified in real world testing) Giving me 3 good options. Those charts are typically within 25g or 1/2” of arrow length for me.

Start a little long with your arrow shaft in combination with multiple FPs ( 300 down to 70g) to get a bareshaft to shoot. 3 Rivers sells theF P test kit- a must have.

Bareshaft testing. You first have to eliminate high/lows.
RH shooter; The bareshaft right of fletched shows too stiff, left means weak.
Let the bow tell you what it likes, Its really that simple.

Caveats; If you cannot shoot a 6” group at 20y….if you have problems with arrows going L or R- don’t bother trying to tune.

Its also important you are able to differentiate a good shot vs a bad shot, using the good shot results as an indicator. ( no one can shoot a perfect bareshaft everytime)

Make sense? Questions?