Precision gas gun, Form?

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PaulIV

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I have received the Lmt mars lower and will now order the upper assembly . I appreciate all the feed back given. I have very accurate bolt guns so the gas gun will be a new experience and learning curve which I’m looking forward to.

The MK12 mod 0 fits perfect with the other class you have. I am not an adjustable gas block or bolt carrier person- a properly ported barrel with a correct buffer and spring will work fine with any can that is suitable for a gas gun.
I was unaware of the mk-12 and researched it and I can now appreciate the suggestion and understand the reasoning. I am ordering the Pri mk-12 mod 0. Thank you for the advice.
 

Formidilosus

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I have received the Lmt mars lower and will now order the upper assembly . I appreciate all the feed back given. I have very accurate bolt guns so the gas gun will be a new experience and learning curve which I’m looking forward to.


I was unaware of the mk-12 and researched it and I can now appreciate the suggestion and understand the reasoning. I am ordering the Pri mk-12 mod 0. Thank you for the advice.

Update us with how it works.
 

CTXhunter

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Reviving this thread for a couple reasons/questions. Please chime in @Formidilosus

Context:

I’m a lefty, I reside in Texas, and am more deer/hog/varmint hunting as well as tactically inclined individual. Shooting and hunting in the mountains is a love of mine- but is an every so often event. Like once a year.

The desirable rokslide special bolt rifles can be hard to obtain in left handed, and I’ve just about decided to use gas guns across the board.

Thoroughly considering taking the S2H University/bear hunt and I’d like to ask about suitable gas guns for this class.

Currently I have a home brew 6 ARC, proof 16” steel barrel, ATACR 4-16. I have a couple suppressor options but even with a Raptor 8, it’s still a heavy gun. Love it for plinking and deer hunting. I am getting pretty consistent 1.5 MOA 10 round groups or better with factory loaded 108’s. I have about 1200 rounds on hand.

At probably a little over 10lbs- is this a suitable rifle for the course? Worth changing optics on this gun to lighten the load?

Either way, I’d love to build or buy a .223 gas gun for the class and hunt. I’ve shot a few deer with .223, have over a thousand tipped match bullets, most of which being 77TMK, I also have a few thousand 77 SMK loaded ready to shoot.

I have an MOA SWFA 10x as well as a capped elevation NX8 that are sitting unused in the safe.

Questions for form
Question 1: have you seen people use the NX8 (DMx) with success for 500 yard hunting rifles?

Question 2: have .223 gas guns given acceptable performance in the classes? If so, strictly the MK12, or any luck with quality barrels assembled into quality uppers?

Question 3: most suitable optic for this setup? The trijicon tenmile 3-18 has my eye, but maybe be overkill for the purpose of the gun. a 6x SWFA seems like it would be great as well. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
 

CTXhunter

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Also, is the NXS 2.5-10x24 an optic worth considering for nostalgia/function while it is now again commercially available? -kinda joking, kinda not. @Formidilosus
 
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Formidilosus

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Reviving this thread for a couple reasons/questions. Please chime in @Formidilosus

Context:

I’m a lefty, I reside in Texas, and am more deer/hog/varmint hunting as well as tactically inclined individual. Shooting and hunting in the mountains is a love of mine- but is an every so often event. Like once a year.

The desirable rokslide special bolt rifles can be hard to obtain in left handed, and I’ve just about decided to use gas guns across the board.

The left hand deal is a hindrance. However there are ways to get a LH 223 tikka.



Currently I have a home brew 6 ARC, proof 16” steel barrel, ATACR 4-16. I have a couple suppressor options but even with a Raptor 8, it’s still a heavy gun. Love it for plinking and deer hunting. I am getting pretty consistent 1.5 MOA 10 round groups or better with factory loaded 108’s. I have about 1200 rounds on hand.

At probably a little over 10lbs- is this a suitable rifle for the course? Worth changing optics on this gun to lighten the load?


If it is 1.5 MOA or so for ten rounds consistently, and is reliable- it’s fine. The scope isn’t ideal due the reticles. (See below).




Questions for form
Question 1: have you seen people use the NX8 (DMx) with success for 500 yard hunting rifles?

Yes. We have used the 1-8x NX8’s extensively. The scope certainly works, however you do give up optical performance with any 1x-whatever scope.


Question 2: have .223 gas guns given acceptable performance in the classes? If so, strictly the MK12, or any luck with quality barrels assembled into quality uppers?

A good gun is a good gun. If the barrel and bolt are good, the largest issue one will have will tend to be POI shift with different loads on the forend. With good gandguards this is relatively minor.


While a gas gun is just fine for the course, I there is scone tangible and intangible benefits to using and learning on a good bolt action. My suggest if you wanted to use a gas gun, would be to start the class with a rental 223, then at a point transition to the gas gun, then swap back and forth between them at times. That will give a good comparison and contrast to them.



Question 3: most suitable optic for this setup? The trijicon tenmile 3-18 has my eye, but maybe be overkill for the purpose of the gun. a 6x SWFA seems like it would be great as well. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.


Mil/mil in whatever you bring.

The SWFA 6x is great. So too is the fixed 10x, the variable the 3-9x and 3-15x. The Maven RS1.2 2.5-15x44mm SHR-Mil is doing very well, and probably the best overall western hunting scope made. The Tenmile is a good scope but the reticle is compromised for general use.
 
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I dont mean to hijack but @Formidilosus do you have a preference for barrel manufacturer for a mk12 build? Sounds like CLE used to be the best but no longer sell to the public. Also why the mod 0 over mod 1?
 

CTXhunter

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The left hand deal is a hindrance. However there are ways to get a LH 223 tikka.






If it is 1.5 MOA or so for ten rounds consistently, and is reliable- it’s fine. The scope isn’t ideal due the reticles. (See below).






Yes. We have used the 1-8x NX8’s extensively. The scope certainly works, however you do give up optical performance with any 1x-whatever scope.




A good gun is a good gun. If the barrel and bolt are good, the largest issue one will have will tend to be POI shift with different loads on the forend. With good gandguards this is relatively minor.


While a gas gun is just fine for the course, I there is scone tangible and intangible benefits to using and learning on a good bolt action. My suggest if you wanted to use a gas gun, would be to start the class with a rental 223, then at a point transition to the gas gun, then swap back and forth between them at times. That will give a good comparison and contrast to them.






Mil/mil in whatever you bring.

The SWFA 6x is great. So too is the fixed 10x, the variable the 3-9x and 3-15x. The Maven RS1.2 2.5-15x44mm SHR-Mil is doing very well, and probably the best overall western hunting scope made. The Tenmile is a good scope but the reticle is compromised for general use.

Went ahead and ordered a PRI MK12 upper. I have a lower with a trigger tech diamond in it, any experience with that trigger in field conditions? Have another with a geissele and another with a Larue.
 

Bigwilly556

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I dont mean to hijack but @Formidilosus do you have a preference for barrel manufacturer for a mk12 build? Sounds like CLE used to be the best but no longer sell to the public. Also why the mod 0 over mod 1?
Craddock bartlein or RTR rock creek button rifling depending on how much money and time you have available.
 

Formidilosus

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I dont mean to hijack but @Formidilosus do you have a preference for barrel manufacturer for a mk12 build? Sounds like CLE used to be the best but no longer sell to the public.

I have used Douglas, RC, Kreiger, Bartlein, etc; and with 1-9”, 1-8”, 1-7”, and 1.65” twists- and they all did well (save 1-9”). Now I would just get a PRI MK12 upper and be done with it.




The Douglas barrels consistently shoot well and the uppers are assembled correctly. They are a known commodity- you don’t have a MK12 to get cute with, you get one because it is a MK12.



Also why the mod 0 over mod 1?


Because it’s better. The Mod 0 is more than the sum of its parts. As a buddy says- “it’s the only military AR worth cloning”.
 

NSI

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I have used Douglas, RC, Kreiger, Bartlein, etc; and with 1-9”, 1-8”, 1-7”, and 1.65” twists- and they all did well (save 1-9”). Now I would just get a PRI MK12 upper and be done with it.




The Douglas barrels consistently shoot well and the uppers are assembled correctly. They are a known commodity- you don’t have a MK12 to get cute with, you get one because it is a MK12.






Because it’s better. The Mod 0 is more than the sum of its parts. As a buddy says- “it’s the only military AR worth cloning”.
What's the best way to put a Harris on one of those bad boys? Pic section? Or is there a better direct attachment?

-J
 

Choupique

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Tracking this one. The .223 thread has me wanting to deer hunt with an AR this year.
 

NSI

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While we’re picking nits, is there a reason to care about gen II vs gen III? As I understand, the difference boils down to the barrel nut. That seems like it could matter…

-J
 

Formidilosus

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@Formidilosus - why a mk12 over say a JP upper?


JP’s are great. However, the MK12 Mod 0 is more than its parts- the whole system (including suppressor) works fantastically together resulting in an extremely reliable, accurate, durable, and very smooth shooting rifle.

Some of the preference is felt in use versus on paper. Objective things that the M12 Mod 0 offers over a JP for field use-

1) Carbon fiber handguard for winter and summer use.

1). No, it almost no POI shift with forend flex- bipod, etc. due to the extremely rigid system made by the handguard and full length top rail.

3). Better balance and usually weight with the barrel profile and handguard combo.

4). Better BUIS setup

5). Setup specifically to mate with the OPS Inc 12th/AEM5/OCM5 reflexed suppressor. This applies only if you use one of these cans, but you should. It is the cherry on top.
 

Formidilosus

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While we’re picking nits, is there a reason to care about gen II vs gen III? As I understand, the difference boils down to the barrel nut. That seems like it could matter…

-J

I’ve used all generations and can’t remember any functional differences. There may be, but it isn’t coming to mind right now.
 
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Well guess I’m going to see what the mk12 is all about. With Brownells 15% off plus active junky 2% it was cheaper to buy a complete pri vs building it myself.
 
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texag10

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Well guess I’m going to see what the mk12 is all about. With Brownells 15% off plus active junky 2% it was cheaper to buy a complete pri bs building it myself.
I think you'll love it. I was at the range next to a guy with a Mk12, it was remarkable how quiet it was with the AEM suppressor vs my 12.5 gun with a JK armament can with 3 baffles.
 
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PaulIV

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Well guess I’m going to see what the mk12 is all about. With Brownells 15% off plus active junky 2% it was cheaper to buy a complete pri vs building it myself.


You will love it. I liked it so much I ordered a second one for my colt lower in fde. I also ordered the AEM suppressor and it’s a fantastic setup. It’s no lightweight but the whole system just works. I love it. I have the gen 2 and gen 3 and no difference to me other than aesthetic.
 
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