Point on insanity

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

after that video it seems I have a short forearm a shorter draw has my elbow out in front of my shoulders

I am the same, and have a long point on distance as well. It's very hard to get the arrow close to the eye without a ridiculous amount of cant for L/R alignment. I'd sugest trying riser gapping instead (use the top of your strike plate as your vertical aim point, and just reference the line of the arrow for L/R.

 

[Wilderlife]

I started doing something similar with my bow recently, as I've been trying to shoot more in the middle distances without using my crawl. My gap is enormous, but there is a washer at the top of my quiver mount that seems to be in a spot that has my arrows landing roughly where they need to when I line the top of that washer up with the kill zone on the target. It's a difficult sight picture to get used to at first but once I've got it down it should work just fine. I'm going to a shoot on the weekend so we'll see how it works out, but from what I can gather it's different rules to what I normally do and the max distance is about 30 metres.

 

[rabbithuntr]

Yeah, I tend to shoot a little right [lefty] when I have too much tension in my forearm. When I focus on back tension, locking my scapula and really feeling the entire pull with my back, I am more accurate.

Arne Moe on YouTube has a video where he is working with the DIY guy on this....it explains it better. Arne- RIP- recommends a rotational draw that can help you get into your back and feel back tension.

When I started, I didn't know what back tension even felt like It turns out, I had been drawing a compound with arm/shoulders. Tension in your arm/hand isn't as big a deal when shooting a release, its a big deal when shooting fingers. It probably took me a year to develop my back strength and feel the back tension.

Thanks I’ll have to watch that sometime.

 

[rabbithuntr]

I am the same, and have a long point on distance as well. It's very hard to get the arrow close to the eye without a ridiculous amount of cant for L/R alignment. I'd sugest trying riser gapping instead (use the top of your strike plate as your vertical aim point, and just reference the line of the arrow for L/R.

This was my solution however my grouping is much better when I can put my point on a spot.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

View attachment 936397
This was my solution however my grouping is much better when I can put my point on a spot.

You can always use the highest anchor you are comfortable with then use a fixed crawl.

After a lesson with Tom Clum sr a few years ago and really learning how to tune an arrow, my point on for the east coast is 20 yards. Granted I have a short draw length, and cut my arrows as short as possible. It’s bad medicine for a stick bow. From 0-25 yards use the tip of my arrow and it’s always on a deer or pig.

It took a solid year to ingrain my higher anchor instead of index finger in the corner of my mouth, but the accuracy and results on game was worth it. Now it feels so weird to anchor lower and I can’t even shoot a compound since the anchor is extremely low compared to a stick.

 

[Beendare]

Good post Coop.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

Good post Coop.

Can’t take the credit, I learned a pile from your post years ago when I started down the stickbow route haha.

Forearm tension is my biggest issue. If I don’t shoot for a couple weeks it’s very apparent when I draw a bow back if I’m shoulder pulling or using back muscle. That’s the main thing I see with guys is shoulder pulling. Once they learn what back tension feels like it’s like a light bulb goes off. You really don’t need much tension at all in ur hand with a decent hook, the bows come back easily with with higher draw weights when using proper form imo.

 

[rabbithuntr]

You can always use the highest anchor you are comfortable with then use a fixed crawl.

After a lesson with Tom Clum sr a few years ago and really learning how to tune an arrow, my point on for the east coast is 20 yards. Granted I have a short draw length, and cut my arrows as short as possible. It’s bad medicine for a stick bow. From 0-25 yards use the tip of my arrow and it’s always on a deer or pig.

It took a solid year to ingrain my higher anchor instead of index finger in the corner of my mouth, but the accuracy and results on game was worth it. Now it feels so weird to anchor lower and I can’t even shoot a compound since the anchor is extremely low compared to a stick.

I watched Arne’s video and also video of tom clum on back tension and target psych stuff it was good definitely stuff to work on. I tried drawing a little in the last night it seemed a lot harder to tell if I rolled my shoulder back than without a load. I also noticed when I pulled my my shoulder back I want to pull my bow arm shoulder back as well. I haven’t had much time to work on it yet though.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

I watched Arne’s video and also video of tom clum on back tension and target psych stuff it was good definitely stuff to work on. I tried drawing a little in the last night it seemed a lot harder to tell if I rolled my shoulder back than without a load. I also noticed when I pulled my my shoulder back I want to pull my bow arm shoulder back as well. I haven’t had much time to work on it yet though.

Scrunched up bow shoulder is very common for guys first staring out or to much draw weight, or just not setting it up properly in the shot sequence.

Tom goes over that in a few different videos and in person. One of the recent push archery videos has shot breakdowns of archers who submitted videos to the channel. He shows how to set the bow shoulder low and proper from the start of the draw. It will also help high low misses imo.

Tom told me 5 years, it takes 5 years to really dial everything in and be able to shoot to one’s ability, once you hit that mile stone it’s just minor tweaks here and there, always striving to get better.

I don’t really shoot critters over 25 yards, elk, moose, bear being the exceptions because they are bigger targets and don’t really jump the string, but from learning proper form and tuning, I tune all my bows with bareshafts at 25-30 yards and shoot pretty damn good out to 40 yards practicing.

Give it time, ask any questions ya need! Trad community is the best. Enjoy the ride!!!

 

[rabbithuntr]

Scrunched up bow shoulder is very common for guys first staring out or to much draw weight, or just not setting it up properly in the shot sequence.

Tom goes over that in a few different videos and in person. One of the recent push archery videos has shot breakdowns of archers who submitted videos to the channel. He shows how to set the bow shoulder low and proper from the start of the draw. It will also help high low misses imo.

Tom told me 5 years, it takes 5 years to really dial everything in and be able to shoot to one’s ability, once you hit that mile stone it’s just minor tweaks here and there, always striving to get better.

I don’t really shoot critters over 25 yards, elk, moose, bear being the exceptions because they are bigger targets and don’t really jump the string, but from learning proper form and tuning, I tune all my bows with bareshafts at 25-30 yards and shoot pretty damn good out to 40 yards practicing.

Give it time, ask any questions ya need! Trad community is the best. Enjoy the ride!!!

I’d like to watch more of his videos, thank you and everyone else for the help.

 

[nettereo16]

I wanted a 20 yard point on. With uncut arrows I was able to tie in a fix crawl ~1” under my nock point, just adjust the crawl point to set your point on. Works pretty well !

 

[bowhuntercoop]

I wanted a 20 yard point on. With uncut arrows I was able to tie in a fix crawl ~1” under my nock point, just adjust the crawl point to set your point on. Works pretty well !

Fixed crawls are awesome! My only issue with them is noise, they are always louder but never seemed to bother the critters I killed when I was starting out and used a fixed crawl. With ilf bows you could tune for it and take away the noise for sure.

 

[CodeMonkey]

Go fixed crawl! Get that point on down to 25 to 30 yards.

With lighter arrows, I had a comically large crawl to get my point on to 25 yards. Went up to 12 GPP and it's only about 3/4'' below the nock point.

 

[Beendare]

The hook without the tension in my forearm is always a battle.

I tried a fixed crawl for awhile and it is absolutely deadly for slot distances. Very accurate. If I was only hunting whitetails, thats what I would do.

It does detune the arrow a little on long crawls like the 1" below the nok mentioned above. If you can keep it under about 3/4" was better, IME

 

[Wilderlife]

I've definitely enjoyed being able to mess around with the tiller in order to keep the tune a little better when a crawl is fairly big.

I wound my crawl from 20m to 25m yesterday, as the shoot I'm doing on the weekend only has a maximum of 30m shots, so a 25m crawl should do me for just about anything. My hold over for 30m is the thickness of an arrow shaft, which is easy to manage.

I almost hate how much I'm enjoying the ILF stuff as it makes me feel like my ASLs are going to see less and less love in the future, but time will tell after I continue building confidence.

On the other hand, it might be good to experiment with a fixed crawl on my Widow PCH to bring my point on a touch closer if I need to when I start hunting with it again. Anything to get my point on between 25-30m will be great for most of the stuff I do around here, and any of the really big stuff I may do in the future.

 

[Stickbow]

Hope this isnt too much of a tangent on the topic, but has anyone dialled in their point on to make aiming at a target animal easier?
For example I could probably put my PO at 30, and that way inside of 30 I could probably just put the point at the bottom of an elk, so that hits will be higher up on the body.
Or PO at 25, aim more middle of body and adjust for distance as appropriate.

 

[Wilderlife]

I've only killed one animal using a fixed crawl so this stuff is new to me, but I've definitely considered that if I get the chance to chase water buffalo. Hitting them well is obviously critical as they're so big, but I've considered what this might look like; a 30m point on might mean holding the tip of the arrow on the brisket line or armpit inside 30m, and that could be a good sight picture. I haven't tested any of that yet, obviously, but it's crossed my mind at least.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

Hope this isnt too much of a tangent on the topic, but has anyone dialled in their point on to make aiming at a target animal easier?
For example I could probably put my PO at 30, and that way inside of 30 I could probably just put the point at the bottom of an elk, so that hits will be higher up on the body.
Or PO at 25, aim more middle of body and adjust for distance as appropriate.

That’s the whole point of a fixed crawl or short point on, I’ve killed the last 30 animals that way. It’s amazing. From 0-30 that tip of the arrow is always on a critter. Like shooting a shotgun, very very actuate imo for anything 30 yards and in. From 5-20 yards I literally look over my arrow like a bead on a shotgun, dead on center of arrow at 25 and an arrow with high at 30. Almost like cheating but it works and I love it.