Point on insanity

after that video it seems I have a short forearm a shorter draw has my elbow out in front of my shoulders
I am the same, and have a long point on distance as well. It's very hard to get the arrow close to the eye without a ridiculous amount of cant for L/R alignment. I'd sugest trying riser gapping instead (use the top of your strike plate as your vertical aim point, and just reference the line of the arrow for L/R.
 
I started doing something similar with my bow recently, as I've been trying to shoot more in the middle distances without using my crawl. My gap is enormous, but there is a washer at the top of my quiver mount that seems to be in a spot that has my arrows landing roughly where they need to when I line the top of that washer up with the kill zone on the target. It's a difficult sight picture to get used to at first but once I've got it down it should work just fine. I'm going to a shoot on the weekend so we'll see how it works out, but from what I can gather it's different rules to what I normally do and the max distance is about 30 metres.
 
Yeah, I tend to shoot a little right [lefty] when I have too much tension in my forearm. When I focus on back tension, locking my scapula and really feeling the entire pull with my back, I am more accurate.

Arne Moe on YouTube has a video where he is working with the DIY guy on this....it explains it better. Arne- RIP- recommends a rotational draw that can help you get into your back and feel back tension.

When I started, I didn't know what back tension even felt like It turns out, I had been drawing a compound with arm/shoulders. Tension in your arm/hand isn't as big a deal when shooting a release, its a big deal when shooting fingers. It probably took me a year to develop my back strength and feel the back tension.
Thanks I’ll have to watch that sometime.
 
I am the same, and have a long point on distance as well. It's very hard to get the arrow close to the eye without a ridiculous amount of cant for L/R alignment. I'd sugest trying riser gapping instead (use the top of your strike plate as your vertical aim point, and just reference the line of the arrow for L/R.
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This was my solution however my grouping is much better when I can put my point on a spot.
 
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This was my solution however my grouping is much better when I can put my point on a spot.
You can always use the highest anchor you are comfortable with then use a fixed crawl.

After a lesson with Tom Clum sr a few years ago and really learning how to tune an arrow, my point on for the east coast is 20 yards. Granted I have a short draw length, and cut my arrows as short as possible. It’s bad machine for a stick bow. From 0-25 yards use the tip of my arrow and it’s always on a deer or pig.

It toon a solid year to ingrain my higher anchor instead of index finger in the corner of my mouth, but the accuracy and results on game was worth it. Now it feels so weird to anchor lower and I can’t even shoot a compound since the anchor is extremely low compared to a stick.
 
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