Permanently Bedding a Scope Base

[IDHUNTER]

Does anyone permanently bed their scope base to their receiver (no release agent)?

If the goal is consistency and zero movement, this seems like the way to go. No?

 

[wyo]

I do now. Even with tight tolerances I just can't see the harm, plus I like the idea of sealing that area between the mounts/rail and the receiver against water intrusion.

And even though I haven't had to remove one that has been bedded (yet), I can't imagine it would be hard to break loose given how smooth most receivers are.

 

[wapitibob]

Get a rail with a recoil lug or pins. If you have a machined action the rail should fit fine. An old Rem 700 that saw the scotchbrite wheel, not so much. You can also skim bed it but I see zero reason to glue it down.

 

[Castle Rock]

Always

 

[Drenalin]

I just did this past weekend for the first time.

 

[Carl Ross]

Every one that isn't integral, and I'd prefer integral. I usually use Devcon or JB Weld, with both surfaces cleaned with rubbing alcohol (can be hard on some finishes). They're easy to take apart with heat, just sit a clothes iron on the rail.

 

[Tmac]

I’ve sort of skim bedded a few, I guess you’d call it, older weaver rails on Rem 700’s. I just used blue Loctite and screwed the rail down to 5 in lbs or so to dry and then fully tightened a day or so later. I took one off after about 15 years recently, it took a sharp rap to break the adhesion. Then I was able to scrape off the dried residue. Not sure I’d want a more permanent glue.

 

[Wrench]

Yes. If it needs to come off, heat the rail and it'll release.

 

[Pdxfire1]

I second JB weld. Tighten to specs with torque screwdriver.

 

[sportsmans challenge]

I second JB weld. Tighten to specs with torque screwdriver.

Tighten to spec right away or tighten less than spec and then when set tighten all the way?

 

[packer58]

Tighten to spec right away or tighten less than spec and then when set tighten all the way?

Speaking specifically about one piece rails, unless the two mating surfaces are identical, meaning the top of the receiver and the mating surface of the rail .... you can actually twist / bend the rail into place by torquing the screws to spec.
IMO when bedding a rail to the receiver, weather permanent or not you should go no further than finger tight during the bedding process to avoid tweaking the rail. Once your choice of epoxy has fully cured then go ahead and torque to spec. That way you will have as close to a stress free scope attachment foundation as possible. That's really our goal to begin with.

 

[General RE LEE]

Dumb question but do you apply enough epoxy to adhere to the receiver and not spread into screw holes?

I’m guessing leave a little room for the epoxy to spread but not touch the screw threading. I can put a little release agent on the screw threads and holes.

I can see this going off the rails if epoxy gets in the screw holes when setting the rail on the receiver.

 

[Bowfinn]

Dumb question but do you apply enough epoxy to adhere to the receiver and not spread into screw holes?

I’m guessing leave a little room for the epoxy to spread but not touch the screw threading. I can put a little release agent on the screw threads and holes.

I can see this going off the rails if epoxy gets in the screw holes when setting the rail on the receiver.

I can’t speak for epoxy, but with an equivalent of 380 I was able to clean up the screw holes without trouble when some got in the hole. I would expect epoxy to have a longer cure time, and clean up easily with wd-40 if needed.

 

[IdahoBeav]

Yes, I did it with my CA. It turned out very good. I used JB weld. As a first timer, I am glad I used the standard JB weld. If I do another I may use the quick set version.