Painting a stock

[crgchck]

My experience.. the textured didn’t like the clear..was more like a wrinkle paint.. didn’t seem to want to bond well to fiberglass, and remained sorta too soft for a stock.. my experience..
the stone again my experience..
First rifle stock I did..when initially applied I didn’t think it was ever going to cure hard enough to work.. while still softish, I coated it with krylon triple thick glaze.. I don’t know what that did but holy shit it became insanely hard and durable.. it was like the clear soaked in and acted as a catalyst.. after years of running it that way, I later wire brushed it and coated with a matte clear.. the stone paint absorbed the triple thick enough that it didn’t have a gloss finish but it did have a little sheen in certain light. I’ve since recoated the first rifle I did with a different system but did do an xp100 with the stone paint a couple years ago..I did it the same way with the triple thick but never hit it with the matte.. I’ll post a pic of it later today.

Found a pic that I posted on the hide of the two as a pair. this was pre matte on the rifle.

 

[Conman243]

Found a pic that I posted on the hide of the two as a pair. this was pre matte on the rifle. View attachment 937723

Thanks man

 

[Sponxx]

I found a picture of my sponge camo over stone paint.
Factory tupperware Savage stock that I modified. I chopped a few inches up front, raised the comb with a piece of wood and Bondo, as well as created a vertical grip and palmswell with more Bondo a latex glove.
When I bought th gun used, it had grey stone paint, fairly grippy, but I added the sponge camo with Rustoleum paints

 

[5811]

I don't know who needs to hear this, but I did: Less is more with sponge painting.

I just kept adding colors because I had them. Now I'm getting messed up Christmas or Joker vibes

I'd probably like it if I quit after gray and orange. But I added 6 more colors.

 

[TheGDog]

First... lightest base coat color.

Second? ... spray angled stripes w/ your darkest color... thru the lighter base. Only like no more than 3 stripes thru the stock and one thru barrel.

Third. Using your randomized sponge piece... on edges of dark stripes... dither-in blips of lighter color to breakup/diffuse the hard edge of that stripe thru the base color. Bkurring where the dark-edge meets the light edge.

Fourth... in the in-between areas of lighter base color... dither-in... some... amt of darker blips of sponge-dabbing to sorta break-up that wide light-colored area.

And like homeboy here just found out.. "Less is More!" Don't go overboard.. and on the "palette" piece you're holding for doing the sponge-dabbing from.. to pickUP the paint from... dab it a few times on your palette piece so it's NOT wet and gloppy with too much paint on it. You want it tacky-looking when you dab it on. That part is important. You'll see.

Also... like if you try making use of an ash-grey type color... be ready to custom-blend in a drop of a darker color into that light-colored ash-grey... often they come in too light/bright of a shade and stick-out like a sore-thumb when you dab that color on.. so you can tone-it-down by adding like dark earth into it. little-by-little... testing after mixing by blipping the sponge onto a test surface to verify shade you've reached.

Matte Clear Coat. Minimum 2 coats.