Painting a stock - Krylon says not clear coat????

WVELK

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I spent a few hours sanding down a manners stock to repaint. Currently, I have a killer paint job on it (I am bias). I called Krylon today to see how long I should wait until applying either a flat, satin or gloss clear coat. They said Krylon Fusion (which is what I used) is not designed to take a clear coat. She said if I clear coated I was “very likely” to get wrinkles, cracking or some other bad stuff. She did say if I was going to try it on a test spot I should wait 7 days to allow the fusion to fully cure. She said the best option if you are going clear coat is to coat within 1 minute of your last top coat with paint.

I have painted one other stock this winter. I used Fusion and clear coated with flat. I let the paint dry 24 hours before coating and had no problems. For those of you who have painted stocks with Fusion did you clear coat? Did you have problems?

Luckily I test painted some 5 gallon buckets before doing the stock. I have applied clear coat to them to see what happens. Will check after work.
 

Duh

WKR
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I’ve done it both ways. So far, my non clear coat paint job has held up very well. I’ve got about 3 different layers on that one though.

I did crap prep on another one and it’s still holding up well.

I did have one clear coat wrinkle on a barrel before but I thought it was because it was cold outside when I sprayed it on. It only wrinkled on the barrel though. The stock, which was wood, stayed completely smooth. Either way, I thought the wrinkle effect looked badass.
 
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WVELK

Lil-Rokslider
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I promise to post pics in a few days when I put the gun back together. I have not even pulled the tape off yet.
 
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WVELK

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I am not sure photos will do it justice so don’t hold your breath. The base is their Olive flat, then is a layer of bronze/granite flakes and a layer or desert sand flakes. The last color is black webbing. On top off that is 3 coats of satin clear. Each coat is very very thin. The final coat was the slightest dusting of flat clear because it had more shine than I wanted.
 
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I've had really good results with air cured cerakote using a small air brush. They have a clear coat you can apply over top of your base coat if you want. Cerakote I think is a lot easier to work with than rattle can and really durable. The sampler sized jars go a long ways.
 
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WVELK

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Thanks for the responses. Getting the colors to mesh took some trial and error on buckets, but a light dusting with the antique bronze followed by desert sand really made it pop. Truly better in person. I keep getting it out of the safe to look again.
 

philos

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It does look good. The fact that Sir Geewhiz gave you high marks means you have excelled at your craft-kinda like winning a Nobel prize.
 
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WVELK

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I don’t know the inside info here, but will accept it as the highest compliment. Having owned a manufacturing business for 25 years with multiple 30x30 paint booths, you do learn a thing or two ha ha.

I have one more rifle, I am THINKING about doing soon. I was searching for paint to mix yesterday.
 
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WVELK

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I am updating this because I learned a little and it may help others who see this in the future. With regards to Krylon’s concern about adding clear coat, my belief is all or nearly all of those concerns are eliminated if you first apply their hard to coat primer. That is not the name, but they make a primer just for applications that are more risky than others. Next, when you clear coat I suggest letting your final “color coat” dry in front of a fan for 24 hours. I did some test and I could create a failure without the primer and I could cause “white haze” if I applied the clear coat too soon.

Finally, I painted another stock and it is pretty sweet and compliments the one above nicely which is what I was going for. Will post later when I take some pics.
 
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