Painless load development (mine)

Would love to hear a little more about this 6mm bullet…

You're making this suspenseful...

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They’re not commercially available. And I don’t know that they would be my choice on deer as I haven’t seen enough in deer to say anyways. On elk, they did well. Above 2,300’ish FPS impact, they tumble early and fragment very well with, it appears, the back half exiting. Below 2,300’ish FPS impact unless hitting bone, they travel 6-8 inches then tumble and break into two pieces. If hitting bone they fragment well. Good tissue damage in both, and all exited on elk.

The 95gr TMK, Hornady 105gr HPBT and 108gr ELD-M, and the heavy Berger VLD’s all do well and perform in tissue more like most would expect.
 
Love this thread.

As a person with a job / life / hobbies always short on time, I took the advice of some crazy internet logger - "kiss, find pressure, and rock on". It's given me my weekends back with zero detriment to accuracy.

Oh, and I sold the charge master, autotrickler, and other shenanigans too. Harrels is more than accurate enough for me, way faster, and way simpler to setup.
 
I am on my second, third, and fourth load development concurrently. Trying the KISS method this time. The first load development I did 650 yard ladder followed by seating tests, by the time I was done I had 8 bullets left to hunt with.
 
I'm tempted to try this with a Barnes load I'm working up, but very hesitant to "kiss" the lands. I'm going to try it with Barnes recommended .050 off and see how it goes. This will be for a 7mm-08.
 
I'm tempted to try this with a Barnes load I'm working up, but very hesitant to "kiss" the lands. I'm going to try it with Barnes recommended .050 off and see how it goes. This will be for a 7mm-08.
I do something similar but I load a dummy round to “jam” and back it off between .020 and .050 and almost everything I’ve done that with shoots sub MOA.
 
I stopped using my Hornady ogive length guage thingy. The last 3 loads for a 270win, 6.5CM, and 6mmGT were loaded with ELDX and ELDM bullets. The 270 and 6.5 are loaded at magazine length. The bullet base is at the neck junction of the case on the 6GT. All at book max, all shoot 10 shot groups at or a little more than an inch at 100 yards. All tikkas. I'm not an experienced reloader either. I'm so glad to be done chasing my tail with seating depth tests and looking for nodes.
 
I do something similar but I load a dummy round to “jam” and back it off between .020 and .050 and almost everything I’ve done that with shoots sub MOA.
That's how I do all my seating data with all bullets, from jam. But I've never seated a Barnes closer than .050, usually longer. I'll give it a try.
 
This is very informative. However, what would be most helpful is a no BS list (with links preferably) of everything someone starting out would need to reload. Equipment, primers, brass, powder, etc. Soup to nuts. Only what you need, and nothing you don't.

For conversation sake, let's say reloading for 6.5 cm and .223 - this is Rokslide after all ;)
 
This is very informative. However, what would be most helpful is a no BS list (with links preferably) of everything someone starting out would need to reload. Equipment, primers, brass, powder, etc. Soup to nuts. Only what you need, and nothing you don't.

For conversation sake, let's say reloading for 6.5 cm and .223 - this is Rokslide after all ;)

The equipment would be easy to suggest: components would depend very heavily on your goals and needs.
 
This is very informative. However, what would be most helpful is a no BS list (with links preferably) of everything someone starting out would need to reload. Equipment, primers, brass, powder, etc. Soup to nuts. Only what you need, and nothing you don't.

For conversation sake, let's say reloading for 6.5 cm and .223 - this is Rokslide after all ;)


RCBS or Lee single stage press. RCBS FL sizing and seating dies. RCBS electronic powder dispenser. RCBS Hand priming tool.
 
I'd go one step easier and just get a lee hand press. Cheaper, works just as well, and you can take it to the range to load on the spot to waste less components and trips to the range.

I have a Lyman pocket digital scale that works pretty well that cost about $20. You have to hit tare frequently, but it will weigh charges accurately enough for this loading method. I recommend it.
 
@Formidilosus , since everyone hates trimming brass... Do you have any specific tolerance for varying brass lengths you try to stick to? Does 0.005 make a difference? 0.010?

And how often would you rework a load due to throat erosion? Never?

Do you crimp your bolt action rounds?
 
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