Optimal Zero Range for 6.8 Western?

[WestslopeKG]

Howdy, folks. I’m still a newby on the Rokslide forum, but have been very active over the years with Hill People Gear and a few Special Forces sites from my past life as a ODA and SOF community guy.
I recently finished building up a Browning X-Bolt in 6.8 Western. I retrofitted a McMillan stock to a Max Long Range action, along with a Talley 20 MOA rail and Talley rings. Leupold VX-6 Glass.
Now that I finally got it kitted out like I want, I am debating back and forth regarding the best range to zero it with factory ammo. 100 yard vs 200 yard zero? I’m hoping the rifle will like the Browning 175gr STGK ammo, but I also stocked up on plenty of the other available factory ammo, to include the 165gr Nosler Accubonds.
My intent is to have this rifle ready for elk this fall. I do not intend to take a shot at an elk past 500 yards. I’ll strive to stalk closer if I can.
Just wanted to gain some insight from others here on what range you consider the best for sighting in and why. I understand that the 6.8 Western is pretty flat shooting. I’ve hunted with a Tikka T3X Lite in .308 the last few years. Did a 100 yard zero with it…but that caliber drops pretty quickly in comparison to the 6.8 Western.
So…what do most guys here prefer? 100 or 200 yard zero?
Thanks in advance for your insights on it.

 

[SDHNTR]

This has been beat to death many times here. Search and ye shall find. Shortcut answer: 100 yds, proofed with a 10+ shot group.

 

[WestslopeKG]

This has been beat to death many times here. Search and ye shall find. Shortcut answer: 100 yds, proofed with a 10+ shot group.

My apologies for not finding the answer through search options. Still learning how to navigate thus forum. Plus…thought there might not be that much available regarding 6.8 Western specifically, as that it’s still a pretty new caliber.

 

[ShootOkHuntWorse]

Are you planning on dialing or set it and forget it? If it’s the latter you will have to use something like Applied Ballistics or Shooter to determine your best zero range for your application.

 

[WestslopeKG]

Are you planning on dialing or set it and forget it? If it’s the latter you will have to use something like Applied Ballistics or Shooter to determine your best zero range for your application.

Planning to dial.

 

[ShootOkHuntWorse]

Planning to dial.

Then 100 yards would make the most sense. You already have a 20moa rail. Custom Dial as well?

 

[WestslopeKG]

Then 100 yards would make the most sense. You already have a 20moa rail. Custom Dial as well?

Good point. Yes…once I figure out what ammo the gun likes, I’ll send in to Leupold for a custom CDS turret based on the preferred ammo and conditions. Much obliged…that makes sense.

 

[ShootOkHuntWorse]

No worries. Sounds like a good plan. Welcome to the Rokslide addiction.

 

[WestslopeKG]

No worries. Sounds like a good plan. Welcome to the Rokslide addiction.

Thanks for the insight!

 

[SDHNTR]

Good point. Yes…once I figure out what ammo the gun likes, I’ll send in to Leupold for a custom CDS turret based on the preferred ammo and conditions. Much obliged…that makes sense.

We'll pretend we didn't hear the CDS part. Another topic worth searching.

 

[swavescatter]

If you dial, agreed that 100 yd zero makes sense. However once you find out your true muzzle velocity and ballistic coefficient (recommend the free Hornady 4DOF calculator), then it’s relatively easy to find out your maximum point blank range and where that is in relation to 100 yds.

I.E. - if your drop at 300yd MPBR is 2” lower than 100 yd, then you can zero your scope to hit high by 2” at 100 yds. Or whatever. This method allows for MPBR while getting an accurate 100yd zero with minimal wind/optics interference.

I wouldn’t bother with a CDS turret unless you zero and dope test your rifle in the exact conditions (temperature and DA) you plan to hunt…

However, within 500 yds none of this will matter too much hopefully. Don’t overthink it.

 

[rcook10]

I dunno about 100 for a hunting rifle. I usually run 200 and dial the rest of the way. I pretty regularly have abrupt encounters with game animals inside 2-300 yards and sometimes do not have time for adjustment. I do really like being able to point and shoot without needing to think about things. For something as flat as a 6.8 its probably not all that important but for my short barelled 308 it is worth thinking about.

 

[WestslopeKG]

We'll pretend we didn't hear the CDS part. Another topic worth

I dunno about 100 for a hunting rifle. I usually run 200 and dial the rest of the way. I pretty regularly have abrupt encounters with game animals inside 2-300 yards and sometimes do not have time for adjustment. I do really like being able to point and shoot without needing to think about things. For something as flat as a 6.8 its probably not all that important but for my short barelled 308 it is worth thinking about.

 

[WestslopeKG]

Good copy. Worth thinking about.

 

[SDHNTR]

I dunno about 100 for a hunting rifle. I usually run 200 and dial the rest of the way. I pretty regularly have abrupt encounters with game animals inside 2-300 yards and sometimes do not have time for adjustment. I do really like being able to point and shoot without needing to think about things. For something as flat as a 6.8 its probably not all that important but for my short barelled 308 it is worth thinking about.

Here we go again. Nothing says you can’t do any of that with 100 yd zero. In fact, you can do so far more precisely.

 

[rcook10]

Here we go again. Nothing says you can’t do any of that with 100 yd zero. In fact, you can do so far more precisely.

Hurdur, ask a question get an opinion. I hunt often with a plain duplex scope with an elevation knob on a rifle pushing 180 grain bullets at pretty modest velocity. if I zero at 100 i get close to 18" of drop at 300 which is plenty to **** up a kentucky windage shot on a little doe. If I zero at 200 I can hold top of spine and know that I'll hit right where I need to be. It's what I like for the ranges I hunt and when I'm still hunting it works great.

 

[Truaxdw]

I have the same rifle and caliber. I use 100 yd zero with an MOA turret.

 

[SDHNTR]

Hurdur, ask a question get an opinion. I hunt often with a plain duplex scope with an elevation knob on a rifle pushing 180 grain bullets at pretty modest velocity. if I zero at 100 i get close to 18" of drop at 300 which is plenty to **** up a kentucky windage shot on a little doe. If I zero at 200 I can hold top of spine and know that I'll hit right where I need to be. It's what I like for the ranges I hunt and when I'm still hunting it works great.

Ugghh. So zero at a 100 for the sake of precision and click up a few when you hit the field. Problem solved. Best of both worlds.

 

[Cannonball]

Why not zero at 100 and dial to MPBR for the walk in?

 

[Leaf Litter]

I have a 6.8 Western Xbolt as well. I zero mine @ 100 yards now, but I'm considering bumping it back to 200 for hunting. I don't see any real drawbacks.

It would have me 2.7" high @ 100 yards and 7.6" low @ 300 yards. Seems like a good compromise for fast shots out to 300 yards with hand loaded 170 EOL @ 2950fps.

With 145 ELD-X @ 3135fps it's even better, 2.3" high @ 100 yards and 6.8" low @ 300 yards.

Ultimately it's whatever you're more comfortable with