Optimal Zero Range for 6.8 Western?

[SDHNTR]

I have a 6.8 Western Xbolt as well. I zero mine @ 100 yards now, but I'm considering bumping it back to 200 for hunting. I don't see any real drawbacks.

It would have me 2.7" high @ 100 yards and 7.6" low @ 300 yards. Seems like a good compromise for fast shots out to 300 yards with hand loaded 170 EOL @ 2950fps.

With 145 ELD-X @ 3135fps it's even better, 2.3" high @ 100 yards and 6.8" low @ 300 yards.

Ultimately it's whatever you're more comfortable with

The drawback is you can’t be as precise with your zero at 200 as you can at 100. And if you are going to dial for longer range, that matters.

 

[ShootOkHuntWorse]

If someone really wants to walk around with a 200 yard plan, zero at 100 and dial up to 200 and leave it there for the hunt.

 

[SDHNTR]

If someone really wants to walk around with a 200 yard plan, zero at 100 and dial up to 200 and leave it there for the hunt.

Stop talking good sense! It’s not as entertaining!

 

[SDHNTR]

At 200 your cone naturally opens up. Mathematically doubles. So is that shot(s) that you are using to zero at 200 really a half MOA or .2 mil off, or within the cone? Is it wind, or mirage? 100 allows you to be much more precise. Less uncertainty, which is the last thing you want in your zero.

I asked this same question here a few years ago. I was a 2” high at 100 and “200 yard zero” for 25+ years. Then once I got some good scopes that dialed, I realized the fallacy of that thinking. Old ways die hard.

 

[rcook10]

At 200 your cone naturally opens up. Mathematically doubles. So is that shot(s) that you are using to zero really a half MOA or .2 mil off, or within the cone? 100 allows you to be much more precise. Less uncertainty, which is the last thing you want in your zero.

I asked this same question here a few years ago. I was a 2” high at 100 and “200 yard zero” for 25+ years. Then once I got some good scopes that dialed, I realized the fallacy of that thinking. Old ways die hard.

With that logic why don't you just zero at 10 yards? I have never found it all that challenging to zero a rifle at any range and all the dead animals in my freezer and center punched targets in my garage don't seem to mind how I do it either . Maybe I'm some crazy wackaloon but if I take a gun to the range to zero it I 1.) use ammo that shoots well in my rifle (usually ½ moa) and 2.) I use this crazy invention called a measuring tape so I know if my group is off my point of aim and how much to adjust if it is. Even crazier, after this I usually then shoot my field rifles at long range on paper to make sure I don't have any problems with scope rotation or bad dope.

What's wild is that this has always meant my rounds hit where I aim whether I dial or hold. This will probably blow your mind but this has also worked with my target rifles, hunting rifles, and rimfires zeroed at all sorts of ranges including 25, 50, 100, and 200 yards. If your scope is repeatable and your rifle/ammunition combo is accurate, it doesn't matter what range you dial to or what range you zero at. What matters is that you like your system and can shoot accurately with it in the field.

Try to be more fun at parties.

 

[Leaf Litter]

At 200 your cone naturally opens up. Mathematically doubles. So is that shot(s) that you are using to zero really a half MOA or .2 mil off, or within the cone? 100 allows you to be much more precise. Less uncertainty, which is the last thing you want in your zero.

I asked this same question here a few years ago. I was a 2” high at 100 and “200 yard zero” for 25+ years. Then once I got some good scopes that dialed, I realized the fallacy of that thinking. Old ways die hard.

I worry about your grasp of physics. None of what you've said today makes sense in any way, shape or form.

 

[SDHNTR]

I worry about your grasp of physics. None of what you've said today makes sense in any way, shape or form.

Ignorance is bliss.

 

[JFK]

I think some of the disagreement is over the semantics of the word zero. I use 100 yard data to zero my scope. That is, match POA to POI. I set my turret up so that while on the “0” my bullet will hit POA at 200. I can simply dial back, past zero, if I want to check my 100 yard zero. No different than setting your scopes turret so that the “0” equates to a 100 yard impact and temporarily adjusting it up
As some here have said they do. I think the main point is that you’ll gain better information by doing the shooting for a zero at 100, versus making scope adjustments off of 200 yard data.

 

[rcook10]

I think some of the disagreement is over the semantics of the word zero. I use 100 yard data to zero my scope. That is, match POA to POI. I set my turret up so that while on the “0” my bullet will hit POA at 200. I can simply dial back, past zero, if I want to check my 100 yard zero. No different than setting your scopes turret so that the “0” equates to a 100 yard impact and temporarily adjusting it up
As some here have said they do. I think the main point is that you’ll gain better information by doing the shooting for a zero at 100, versus making scope adjustments off of 200 yard data.

Do folks really have such a hard time measuring the middle of a 1-2" group at 200 yards?

 

[JFK]

Do folks really have such a hard time measuring the middle of a 1-2" group at 200 yards?

Probably not. I also don’t believe it makes a big difference which way you do it for the vast majority of shooting that goes on, including my own. It’s just that the 2-2.5” group at 200 yards might be 1-1.5” at 100, giving you a better reference point to make scope adjustments. Neither way is harder or easier, so I choose the one that provides better information.

 

[Formidilosus]

Do folks really have such a hard time measuring the middle of a 1-2" group at 200 yards?

No. But in seeing a very large sample size of hunters/shooters, very few people actually achieve a point of aim, point of impact zero at 200 yards. They offset high at 100 yards for a “200 yard zero”. Furthermore, in that same sample size of people that have rifles/ammo that are “usually 1/2 MOA”, I have yet to see a single one that hit a 1” dot at 200 yards on demand. Quite the opposite.
Of course all the people that are unable to hit the targets they claimed were “no problem”, generally fall back to the “my freezers are full” argument instead of acknowledging that they and their system failed at what they said they do.


For standard rifles, zeros past 100 yards introduce variables that are not there, or are much easier to account for with a 100 yard/meter zero. Zeroes closer than 100 yards/meters introduce variables that are harder to account for, and actual range that you are shooting matters greatly.


To have a true zero you must shoot at the full range- there is no 200 yard zero by being 1.5” high at 100 yards nonsense. Point of aim must coincide with point of impact- that is the center of the cone is centered over the aim point. Enough rounds must be fired at one aim point to see the true dispersion and center of the cone.


100 yard/meters zero offers:

1) POA/POI that is in the flattest part of the trajectory.

2). A zero that is at the top of the trajectory where the bullet (cone) never crosses the line of sight.

3). Close enough that environmental factors have no effect, and wind drift is minimal and easy to see and account for.

4). Is far enough away that the true dispersion is shown, yet close enough that recognizing the cone is visually easy.

5). Being that 100 yards/meters is in the flattest part of the trajectory, ranging errors during zeroing have no functional effect. From 65’ish yards to 120’ish yards the bullet is within .1”. That means a field rezero or zero check can be accomplished anywhere from 65-120 yards and POA or POI for a 100y zero.

 

[SDHNTR]

No. But in seeing a very large sample size of hunters/shooters, very few people actually achieve a point of aim, point of impact zero at 200 yards. They offset high at 100 yards for a “200 yard zero”. Furthermore, in that same sample size of people that have rifles/ammo that are “usually 1/2 MOA”, I have yet to see a single one that hit a 1” dot at 200 yards on demand. Quite the opposite.
Of course all the people that are unable to hit the targets they claimed were “no problem”, generally fall back to the “my freezers are full” argument instead of acknowledging that they and their system failed at what they said they do.


For standard rifles, zeros past 100 yards introduce variables that are not there, or are much easier to account for with a 100 yard/meter zero. Zeroes closer than 100 yards/meters introduce variables that are harder to account for, and actual range that you are shooting matters greatly.


To have a true zero you must shoot at the full range- there is no 200 yard zero by being 1.5” high at 100 yards nonsense. Point of aim must coincide with point of impact- that is the center of the cone is centered over the aim point. Enough rounds must be fired at one aim point to see the true dispersion and center of the cone.


100 yard/meters zero offers:

1) POA/POI that is in the flattest part of the trajectory.

2). A zero that is at the top of the trajectory where the bullet (cone) never crosses the line of sight.

3). Close enough that environmental factors have no effect, and wind drift is minimal and easy to see and account for.

4). Is far enough away that the true dispersion is shown, yet close enough that recognizing the cone is visually easy.

5). Being that 100 yards/meters is in the flattest part of the trajectory, ranging errors during zeroing have no functional effect. From 65’ish yards to 120’ish yards the bullet is within .1”. That means a field rezero or zero check can be accomplished anywhere from 65-120 yards and POA or POI for a 100y zero.

Yes but none of what you have said today makes sense in any way, shape or Form. Pun? Haha. I crack myself up.

 

[Reburn]

I worry about your grasp of physics. None of what you've said today makes sense in any way, shape or form.

The only reason you dont have more members explaing how your wrong is we are very tired of beating this dead horse over and over and over again.

 

[Mike Islander]

Zero at 100 for all the known good reasons. Dial and confirm (if possible) at whatever distance you like (200, MPBR, etc.). Dudes are confusing zero range with walk-around dialed range. Two separate things that may or may not coincide.

 

[shotoutofacannon]

I realize there are many opinions on this and it may go against the general concensus, but I have found significantly increased accuracy at longer ranges using a 200-yard zero. I believe this is because you can see aberations in flight that dont show up at 100, but thats just what I have found. There is also an argument that it is also a waste of a flat trajectory to use a 100 yd zero. Zero at 200, you will be less than 2" high at 100 and don't worry about dialing till you get out past 250. This increases shot speed while hunting. But to each their own. Both options work.