Opinions on Sevr 1.5

Topher502

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Jul 12, 2022
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one negative of sevr is the blades interlock. check your local laws, some states dont allow "barbed" broadheads or blades that lock open
 
OP
L
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Jun 13, 2021
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my personal experience with sevr has been all positve. i shot them for years before switching to swat broadheds. i think the sevr actually flew better than my field tips. crazy accurate!
I just read an article where a guy said his field points and Sevr 1.5's were dead on together out to 40 yards. But also claimed, when shooting 50 to 80 yards the Sevr 1.5's were noticeably tighter than his fieldpoints.
 

rclouse79

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Dec 10, 2019
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Even though I already bought seven to use this year I spent some time last year reading through old reviews. Apparently the sevr 1.5 is very similar to the old Ulmer edge. One guy said he has killed over 30 animals with zero failures and with all of his friends that number was closer to 100. Most of the negative reviews were based on blood trails, or penetration. Most of the penetration complaints were people shooting the 2.0 with light arrows and or draw weight.
 
OP
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one negative of sevr is the blades interlock. check your local laws, some states dont allow "barbed" broadheads or blades that lock open

I don't see how they can be classified as barbed.

The blades lock on each other, but will swing past.

Normal open position:
20220724_131740.jpg

Past open:
20220724_131755.jpg

So no barbed effect. However, they will also lock in that past open position, which I have found them in after pass thru. I think that's the 2.1, I have a dozen of those, but switched blades to the 2.0 I believe which seems to be a little better in terms of the "tab" coverage over the blades while deployed.
 
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I’ve killed 2 bulls and some whitetail does with them, bear and a lot more deer going back to the ulmer edge days.
I have no complaints with them. I confirm every arrow/head combo before it goes into my quiver after touching up the blades.
I carry both fixed and sevr in my quiver and both fly the same for me to 80 plus with field points. I can generally keep them in the bigger matrix white spot and for sure inside the center module.
One bull I think could have been an issue if it wasn’t a sevr and that’s why myself and friends use them. We practice alot and tune bows/arrows to one another and the shooter but we all know we don’t make perfect shots very often on animals for any number of reasons. The extra forgiveness in flight and wide cut are a combo that adds to your odds.
The second bull was quartering to at 5 yards when he came around a 10’ fir tree, put it between the shoulder and neck, found it touching the opposite hip bone.
I like the 1.7 or 2.0 for white tails.
 

rclouse79

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Dec 10, 2019
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I’ve killed 2 bulls and some whitetail does with them, bear and a lot more deer going back to the ulmer edge days.
I have no complaints with them. I confirm every arrow/head combo before it goes into my quiver after touching up the blades.
I carry both fixed and sevr in my quiver and both fly the same for me to 80 plus with field points. I can generally keep them in the bigger matrix white spot and for sure inside the center module.
One bull I think could have been an issue if it wasn’t a sevr and that’s why myself and friends use them. We practice alot and tune bows/arrows to one another and the shooter but we all know we don’t make perfect shots very often on animals for any number of reasons. The extra forgiveness in flight and wide cut are a combo that adds to your odds.
The second bull was quartering to at 5 yards when he came around a 10’ fir tree, put it between the shoulder and neck, found it touching the opposite hip bone.
I like the 1.7 or 2.0 for white tails.
Do you take the blades out and touch them up on a stone? I have read some reviews saying they are scary sharp and others that weren’t impressed.
 

Topher502

FNG
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Jul 12, 2022
Messages
14
How do they lock into a barb?

Never seen anything about locked open blades being illegal, only barbs.
I live in PA, I know a lot of people use them in my state and i did too until i was told i should'nt because they lock and could be considered barbed. I am not sure if you read my previous post where I stated i thought they were the most accurate braodhead I have ever shot. I think they are one of the best broadheads on the market.
I do 100% agree with you and I did not think they were barbed or illegal or would have never have bought them to start with. I hunt a farm that boarders the local game warden and bump into him more often than i care too, I am not debating him. I will stand by my previous statement and check your local laws.
 
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Do you take the blades out and touch them up on a stone? I have read some reviews saying they are scary sharp and others that weren’t impressed.
I remove and pull across various grits of sandpaper or a G5 sharpener if I’m in a hurry. My test is how easily a tightly stretched rubber band cuts as a long time ago I was told they act similar to veins. You can tell when a blade is dull because the band will slide and not cut, maybe catch a burr and partially cut then roll over and keep sliding. I expect almost instant snap usually before I even realize I touched the blade. Pliers or a window razor blade scraper work well to hold the blades.
The new replacement blades out of the package are actually pretty good most of the time. If I’ve shot a particular head into a target a lot I’ll likely just change the blades out.
I know the concept is the blade edges don’t touch in practice mode but I find most models protrude slightly or are just flush and a tight target is touching them
 
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I live in PA, I know a lot of people use them in my state and i did too until i was told i should'nt because they lock and could be considered barbed. I am not sure if you read my previous post where I stated i thought they were the most accurate braodhead I have ever shot. I think they are one of the best broadheads on the market.
I do 100% agree with you and I did not think they were barbed or illegal or would have never have bought them to start with. I hunt a farm that boarders the local game warden and bump into him more often than i care too, I am not debating him. I will stand by my previous statement and check your local laws.

The point is they don't lock in a barb.

Look at the pictures I posted.

Exodus swept is a barb.

I think they are mediocre at best mechanical heads, I just don't want people thinking they are barbed when they aren't.

The fact they lock open has nothing to do with a barb, the blades will swing past upright, so the blades are out over the tip. Not barbed.
 

rclouse79

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I remove and pull across various grits of sandpaper or a G5 sharpener if I’m in a hurry. My test is how easily a tightly stretched rubber band cuts as a long time ago I was told they act similar to veins. You can tell when a blade is dull because the band will slide and not cut, maybe catch a burr and partially cut then roll over and keep sliding. I expect almost instant snap usually before I even realize I touched the blade. Pliers or a window razor blade scraper work well to hold the blades.
The new replacement blades out of the package are actually pretty good most of the time. If I’ve shot a particular head into a target a lot I’ll likely just change the blades out.
I know the concept is the blade edges don’t touch in practice mode but I find most models protrude slightly or are just flush and a tight target is touching them
Thanks for the info. I just bought a stay sharp guide. I watched a couple YouTube videos and it looks pretty idiot proof.
 

IdahoHntr

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May 3, 2018
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The point is they don't lock in a barb.

Look at the pictures I posted.

Exodus swept is a barb.

I think they are mediocre at best mechanical heads, I just don't want people thinking they are barbed when they aren't.

The fact they lock open has nothing to do with a barb, the blades will swing past upright, so the blades are out over the tip. Not barbed.
It probably depends on how the laws are written in the state defining what a barbed head is. By Idaho rules I think it would have been considered barbed (along with almost every other mechanical head..), if they hadn't made a specific exception for mechanical broadheads with the rule change this year. I'm not familiar with any other states rules regarding barbed heads, but if they had language similar to what Idaho's has been for years, I could see there being some confusion. The SEVR definitely goes out of it's way to not be a barbed head in practice, but the way rules are written and the way things work in real life don't always go hand in hand..
 
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It probably depends on how the laws are written in the state defining what a barbed head is. By Idaho rules I think it would have been considered barbed (along with almost every other mechanical head..), if they hadn't made a specific exception for mechanical broadheads with the rule change this year. I'm not familiar with any other states rules regarding barbed heads, but if they had language similar to what Idaho's has been for years, I could see there being some confusion. The SEVR definitely goes out of it's way to not be a barbed head in practice, but the way rules are written and the way things work in real life don't always go hand in hand..

A head would need to be locked in the swept back position to be barbed. Just because a picture makes it look like a barb, doesn't make it an actual barb.


Idaho's rule:

e. With arrows or bolts having barbed broadheads. A barbed broadhead is a broadhead which has any portion of the rear edge of the broadhead forming an angle less than ninety (90) degrees with the shaft or ferrule. (7-1-21)T

Was current until August 30, 2021, it's vague enough because they didn't allow mechanical heads, and it was defining fixed heads. A barb is going to need to be fixed or locked into a position that meets that definition to actually be a barb. Any head that the blades will rotate back past 90 towards the tip can't be a barb.

Kentucky has just said no barbed heads, I don't remember seeing it defined.

I can't find in PA code where a barbed head is illegal, so can't cross reference that definition.
 
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Thanks for the info. I just bought a stay sharp guide. I watched a couple YouTube videos and it looks pretty idiot proof.

I’ll look into that for the SEVR they could be scary with that guide. I use it for Kudu and am amazed at the difference after how much I struggled on the back half of the Kudu blades before.
 
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Ive owned the 1.5’s and shot whitetail mostly with them. Never had any issues. I did shoot a coyote once with one. It was a trot and I didn’t lead him enough. Complete pass through in the back hips and found the coyote 80 yards away. Probably some luck in that but take it for what it’s worth.
 

rclouse79

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Dec 10, 2019
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I’ll look into that for the SEVR they could be scary with that guide. I use it for Kudu and am amazed at the difference after how much I struggled on the back half of the Kudu blades before.
I got the stay sharp in the mail and sharpened all the blades. I was surprised there was no way the blades were shaving hair from the factory. It sure seems like hard steel. It took me forever to get a burr even with 240 grit. They would all cut hair by the time I was done, but it was quite the process.
 
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