older (special) rifle project

[mtwarden]

That fluting looks fantastic! I’d consider just cerakote clear over it to preserve the contrast.
You know we’re going to need before and after photos?
As much as I love the feel and practicality of my CF McMillan on my Browning, I’m going to need a wood stock on it for sure. Love the maple on my .30-06 m70 fwt.

that’s a great idea; I’m dropping off the rifle tomorrow and will check on if they can keep the two tone- it does like pretty cool

 

[NB7]

Good evening @mtwarden....I'm resurrecting this thread to see how the rifle turned out.
So, how did it go and are you happy with it?

 

[mtwarden]

Good evening @mtwarden....I'm resurrecting this thread to see how the rifle turned out.
So, how did it go and are you happy with it?

The cerakote is done, but it's in Missoula with my son-in-law who will be coming over St Patricks Day with it; I've yet to lay eyes on the action yet!

Once it's home, I'll be visiting with my local gunsmith to look at possible lightening of the stock, but mainly to bed and treat the entire stock- probably Tru oil.

I had a change of heart over the scope (still will use Talley Lightweight mounts) and have a Swarovski 3.5-10 on order (currently backordered, hoping in the next couple of weeks). Went with the BRH reticle, no dialing.

I'll definitely post a few pics when I get the action back.

 

[Wrench]

If it were mine, I would pillar it and float it substantially.

My theory is that pillaring is as solid as wood is going to get. Wood has a compressive strength around 3000psi, which is plenty.....but it also has a massi e expansion and contraction compared to aluminum or steel.

Build the bed and lock it in. The forend can be clearanced enough that even in a huge humidity swing itll never touch.

You can't put enough mud in the channel to overcome the wood moving.....so don't fight it, let it run.

 

[mtwarden]

^ you wouldn't have a link of someone pillaring a wood stock by chance?

 

[Wrench]

It is no different than any other stock. If you have not modified your stock yet, and it feeds well without magazine bind....

Measure the length of the space between the bottom metal and action. Think about where the bottom metal and action are when installed. The pillar is just a cylinder cut to maintain that space.

Bore the holes in the stock for the action screws to allow the pillars to be set with epoxy and rock on.
Once your pillars are set, relieve the area around them and the action foot print and final bed.

If you think about how you are trying to retain that space, it is possible to relieve the areas around the pillars and action ahead of setting them, as long as you have a reference for your elevation.....you can relieve and set the pillars in one operation using the bottom metal as your reference height.

 

[mtwarden]

^ danke

 

[mtwarden]

Finally got the action back from the Cerakote outfit; I'm really happy with the job they did- a light matte finish that should look pretty good on the wood stock

Next up is to meet with the gunsmith and check into pillar and bedding, he'll also have to some slight inletting to fit the new aluminum bottom metal. I'm going to get his opinion on possibly lightening the stock- it's pretty light as is

 

[Montana Slim]

That looks really nice

 

[elkguide]

That cerakote job looks great. With your rifle being in the 6 pound range, I personally wouldn't worry about trying to lighten it.

Having built stocks for many years and having hunted with only fiberglass stocked rifles for the last 20+ years, I just picked up a custom barreled 6.5PRC and decided that since it shoots 3/8" and better groups, it deserved a new stock and I went with a walnut blank,

I would be sure and seal every surface of your rifle stock, especially the inletting (action and barrel channel) and under the recoil pad and grip cap, and then shoot it. If it shoots well, go hunt with it.

 

[MeatMissile]

The featherweight contour barrel is great in a McMillan EDGE.

 

[mtwarden]

thanks

yeah the stock is pretty darn light, might call it good- would hate to have a hole that was too big and crack- eek!

I'm going to have the entire stock Tru-Oiled- inside and out, good idea on under the recoil pad!

McMillan quit their Featherweight Edge offering, but regardless I'm sticking with the wood stock for sentimental reasons

 

[MeatMissile]

thanks

yeah the stock is pretty darn light, might call it good- would hate to have a hole that was too big and crack- eek!

I'm going to have the entire stock Tru-Oiled- inside and out, good idea on under the recoil pad!

McMillan quit their Featherweight Edge offering, but regardless I'm sticking with the wood stock for sentimental reasons

Make sure the wood under the recoil pad is sealed too. That’s often a culprit for wood stock warpage. I also give my wood/blue guns a coat of carnuba wax. Might not be necessary since you cerakoted it.

 

[mtwarden]

no real updates (still need to meet with the gunsmith!), but found some older photos with the rifle on the scale

w/ a Leupold 6X and Talley mounts- 7 lbs 0.8 oz; Leupold 6X was 9.6 (that's a light scope! ) and Talley's at 2.5 oz

if my math is correct that should 6 lbs 5 oz for the rifle, not too shabby for factory rifle with a wood stock

I'll be using the Talley's again, but adding to the weight of the scope (Swarovski Z3 3-10x42)- 3 additional ounces

 

[SDHNTR]

Thanks guys!

I was thinking of only bedding the action and have the barrel free floating for accuracy, and then thoroughly treat the inside of the stock.

I’ve read some guys have had trouble with a pressure point up front????

Should I pillar bed it as well? I see they have aluminum pillar kits for the M70 wood stocks.

I've done this with wood stocks myself. I would pillar bed it while you are at it. This will allow you to apply greater torque to the action screws without worrying about imparting stress into the action or cracking the stock. I would also sand out some space in the barrel channel, then hog out the forend of the stock to create a recessed channel, drop a stainless steel or carbon rod inside the channel for stiffness and to keep the stock from warping or twisting. Then fill up the channel you made with JB Weld, Marine Tex, or Acraglass and full length bed the receiver all the way out to the forend. Then yes, sanding and then a few coats of Truoil inside the Trigger and mag well recesses will seal up everything else with exposed wood.

I used Alamo Custom Rifle to cerakote a rig that I wanted to look like bluing. THey have a custom color specifically for this purpose that they call Mimic Blue. It came out exactly the way I wanted. Actually has some depth to the luster like bluing would.

I like the nostalgia thing you're after. We hear too much about tacticool dudes and their chassis abominations going hunting. It's nice to see someone respecting their roots and taking a proper rifle on a meaningful hunt.

 

[mtwarden]

^ Thanks!
Pillar bedding is definitely on the list; going to make sure every nook and cranny is thoroughly Truoiled- someone mention taking off the recoil pad, thinking I better take off the grip cap as well

 

[Operator]

If the length of pull on the mod. 70 feels short, mine felt that way you could get a limbsaver recoil pad and have it fitted sure takes the bite out of the 3006 FWT, I second having a steel rod epoxied into the forend, might add an ounce or so but worth it.

 

[handwerk]

Seems like you've done a nice job of refreshing that old classic, great to be able to enjoy the rifle and it's heritage during your hunt, thanks for sharing the project. Although I have many semi custom model 70s in synthetic stocks I still hunt every year with one of my woods stocked ones too.

 

[Wapiti1]

^ Thanks!
Pillar bedding is definitely on the list; going to make sure every nook and cranny is thoroughly Truoiled- someone mention taking off the recoil pad, thinking I better take off the grip cap as well

Yes, take off anything that has screws and covers wood and seal underneath. Sling swivel mounts as well. If it has sling studs, pull the back one dip in truoil and reinstall.

Jeremy

 

[mtwarden]

Well I definitely won't be drilling holes in the stock, they already "drilled" a large hole at the factory! Could explain why the stock is only 25.9 oz

I also noticed this- the stud screw is proud into the stock bed by ~ 1/4"- will have that cut flush