older (special) rifle project

[mtwarden]

A little background. I inherited a M70 Featherweight in .30-06 from my late father-in-law some years back. This is not a pre-64, I think early to mid 70’s, so definitely not a collector piece The rifle has harvested many deer and elk, probably more by him than myself. A couple of years ago I grabbed a Kimber Hunter (in.308) and the Featherweight has sat idle.

This year I booked a Dall hunt in Alaska for 2023. My father-in-law always told me that some day we’d go to Alaska to hunt, sadly he passed not too long after retiring. I thought it would be neat to take that rifle with me to Alaska.

My original plan was to get a lightweight custom stock and have the action Cerakoted. I pulled the wood stock off the other day and it and threw it on a scale, much to my surprise it only weighs 25.9 ounces pretty svelte for a wood stock. Not a ton of weight savings in a custom synthetic stock.

So now I’m thinking keeping the wood stock, still Cerakoting the action, but in a blue’d look.

I want the stock bedded and possibly pillared, but definitely want to render it as weatherproof as as is possible for a wood stock. Pull everything off and Tru oil it or something else?

I’m getting the bolt fluted and ordered aluminum bottom metal, was going to do that regardless.

Any thoughts, concerns, etc appreciated

 

[mtwarden]

I guess no one hunts with wood stocks anymore

well I was able to shave almost two ounces w/ a PTG aluminum bottom metal

 

[PNWGATOR]

Karl Kampfeld does amazing fluting. First class workmanship and attention to detail since you’re looking for an unsolicited opinion.

Full length bed the stock in order to keep it as water resistant as possible.

With the sentimental value of this rifle, it’s fitting to take it on your sheep hunt.

 

[Team4LongGun]

Great to see you bringing that rifle on your AK hunt! I like to tinker with rifles and think your on the right track with cerakote and new bottom metal.
As far as bedding, is this to squeeze some more accuracy out of it? It was automatic for me years ago, and now I do a good sized factory ammo test or reload for it before deciding to bed.
Either way would like to see the rifle when it’s all done

 

[Wapiti1]

Oh, there are a few of us around.

I wouldn't do much to the exterior of the stock if it is in fair to good shape. Maybe a couple of hand rub coats of spar varnish. Truoil would work, but I prefer marine varnish (actually polyurethane, or urethane) as a stock finish.

Under the buttpad and in the inletting, it should be sealed one of two ways. Soak with a 50/50 mix of spar varnish and thinner until it won't take more, then let dry for several days, repeat two-three more times. I like Daly's products for stock finishing, but Varathane or Minwax will work for this part just fine.

The other option, which is the most weatherproof, but also messiest, is to get the runniest epoxy you can find, like original acraglass, and coat the inletting and under the buttpad with epoxy. Just a thin brush on coat to seal, not to fill any gaps. Let cure and put it together. I've heard of guys using wood hardener for this as well, and that seems like it would work, but I've never tried it.

If the finish on the outside is rough, I'd strip it entirely and refinish with Daly's. You can epoxy finish, but that is a giant PITA to get right.

Sounds like it will be a fun project.

Jeremy

 

[mtwarden]

Thanks guys!

I was thinking of only bedding the action and have the barrel free floating for accuracy, and then thoroughly treat the inside of the stock.

I’ve read some guys have had trouble with a pressure point up front????

Should I pillar bed it as well? I see they have aluminum pillar kits for the M70 wood stocks.

 

[Wapiti1]

Pillars are not needed if the wood is sound and you aren't the type to keep cranking on the action screw. Pillars are to provide a solid repeatable torque to the screws, but sound wood is firm enough to do the job as well.

Wood finished and sealed with more modern finishes doesn't wander and walk around like it used to when finishes weren't as water tight.

As for a barrel pressure point, the rifle will tell you if it needs one. Most don't, a few do. It's easy to replace with epoxy if you remove it and it won't shoot. I would remove it and see since you can replace it.

The comment above about fully bedding the barrel is also an option to help keep water out. If you shoot off a bipod or use your sling a lot, it can create an issue, but if you don't then it is a good suggestion.

Jeremy

 

[tt_johnsclist]

Ceracoat had a color “socom blue” that should be what you are looking for to match factory bluing fairly close.

 

[tater]

Wapiti1 nailed the big points.
Pull that pad and make sure that the butt end is really well sealed. I have a Mauser that i believe was custom built in the early 80's that the smith used thinned out clear epoxy to seal the entire inletting front to back. It has spent weeks hunting moose in the rain and never moved poi.
I used wood hardener on a set of 1973 Browning B78 wood. Part of this was to minimize the notorious cracking to the wrist but also because it spends a lot of time in inclement weather. It has made it weather proof (but i'm sure it added more weight than just using varnish).
Those pushfeed M70's are an undiscovered gem.

 

[mtwarden]

Thanks Gents- some solid information, much appreciated!

I’ll check out the SoCom blue; I saw one picture that looked like a dead ringer to factory bluing, but I can’t recall what the finish was-could have very well been the SoCom

 

[mtwarden]

Karl Kampfeld does amazing fluting. First class workmanship and attention to detail since you’re looking for an unsolicited opinion.

Full length bed the stock in order to keep it as water resistant as possible.

With the sentimental value of this rifle, it’s fitting to take it on your sheep hunt.

got the bolt back today, I will have to concur only shaved a little over an ounce, but a little here and a little there AND it's awful pretty!

 

[tdot]

Stoked to hear that you are keeping the wood stock. IMO they are such a huge part of the rifle that it'd be a shame not to have that along for the ride. My Father in Law hunts exclusively with wood stocks and it amazes me how light some of those rifles are and also consistent in the wet conditions we have here on the west coast.

I spoke briefly to a few local gunsmiths about having my grandpa's old rifle cerakoted. One of them mentioned that it isn't just picking the correct cerakote colour, its also the application method used that will help make it look more like factory bluing. I dont know any specifics, but may be worth asking about.

Good luck on the hunt!

 

[mtwarden]

^ thanks- I'll definitely inquire on what's the best methodology to replicating the blued look

 

[mtwarden]

found this pic, it's socom blue on the slide (graphite on the frame); I've ready using double the hardening agent, glosses it more

this is definitely pretty darn close to what I was thinking

 

[nettereo16]

@mtwarden How's your M70 project coming along? I'm wanting to do a similar project with my dad's 1980s era Rem700 3006 mtn rifle.

 

[mtwarden]

@mtwarden How's your M70 project coming along? I'm wanting to do a similar project with my dad's 1980s era Rem700 3006 mtn rifle.

I found a Cerakote applicator in the Bitterroot and will be in that area mid-September. After visiting with them, sounds like Midnight blue or Socom blue is what I'm looking for. They have samples of both to compare. I'll get the action and bottom metal done. I had the bolt fluted, so may go with some two tone Cerakote with it.

Once I get the action coated, I'll take it to my local gunsmith and have him bed and treat the stock.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

I missed this the first time around. Sounds like a great project, and I do like the look of that blue cerakote on the pistol slide!

 

[GLB]

Years ago I hunted on Kodiak with a blued wood stock rifle before I switched to synthetic and Cerakote. I prepped the wood/blued rifle by free floating the barrel channel and sealing it by glass bedding. I also put 4-5 coats of Johnson Paste wax on everything, wood and metal. Even though it rained every day I didn’t have a single problem.

However, going to synthetic and Cerakote on all my rifles made it easier.

 

[Fatcamp]

What kind of failthread lacks before picture of a Featherweight build?



LOL. Put together a Rokslide Special Tikka in 6.5Awesome with a SWFA 3-9X40 for my wife. I think she could care less but every time we go to Scheels she fondles the Winchester's. Thinking about trading it and surprising her. Are the new ones any good?

 

[mtwarden]

Mine is circa mid-70's; everything I've heard is the new ones are good.