black dawg
WKR
I usually clean and loc tite between base and action, but have used a good automotive silicone to fill up any space, and it glues the base/rail on pretty good.
I use alcohol between layers in the joint so I start with a consistent and clean joint. I am far more concerned about a metal chip tilting a base or stopping surface to surface contact. Your torque applied makes clamp load. The clamp load applied at the screw head to base holds a good joint in place. The specs are generally for a lightly oiled surface and threads. The bolts and nuts need their excess coating, drips, etc broken down and wiped off before running them together. I usually clean screws, run the in the hole, wipe both with alcohol and be done. A dry joint generally has a slightly lower clamp load, but a better reverse torque.I do the opposite and use brake cleaner to get any and all oil removed from both pieces
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That’s a good idea. Done correctly, that should increase your washer area quite a bit thus reducing the clamp load required to prevent sliding in recoil or when dropped which is the purpose.I just mounted two scope bases to swedish mauser receivers with a thin coating of JB Weld between the degreased scope mount/rail and waxed receiver. We'll see how that does...
Generally I agree. Oil is not bad, but it makes it harder to have a truly clean lint or chip or dirt spec free joint. If I’m really concerned, I can pull it off and re clean it after a wet hunt.I can't imagine a base being loose unless the screws are loose. If so, then there's a bigger problem than a bit of oil between base and receiver.