Novice diving in head first needs advice

[realunlucky]

Thanks for checking out this thread and starting me down the right path to success . Please drop some of your knowledge in the comments below.

I've decided to rebarrel my old reliable Remington 700. Goal is a single all-round budget rifle that can stretch it's legs to 800 yards. Also important is trying to keep the rifles wieght as manageable as possible.

Caliber:--it's a long action so I'm currently leaning towards a 280ai any other top choices I should be looking at?

Barrel manufacturer:--how important is choosing a certain brand? Where is the top choice?

Barrel profile:-- obviously bigger is better but heavier what's a good balance? I doubt I can go the carbon route due to price. Fluted or not?

Brakes:-- I've never shot one but a new barrel is the best time to have one installed. What is everyone using? Here's what I'm seeing with brakes what am I missing? Pro's spotting hits on target. Cons noise and with a 280 is it really necessary?

Stock:-- is there a budget choice out there? Currently have a B&C which I like ok and might just stick with to save some money. Chassis what's the advantage on a hunting rifle?

Gun smith:-- I see that the price varies a bunch and every one I've thought about using has a waiting list. Are they the make or break component in this whole mix? What should one expect to spend on a project like this?

Optic:-- yes I've read the never ending debates about this but for the record do I need a heavy SOB for dialing? What's the light wieght choices?

Rings:-- looking at the Hawkins hybrid as I'd could avoid a rail. Opinions?

There's some amazing knowledge on Rokslide about long range shooting, I'm hoping a few of you guys will be willing to share here. Thanks





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[WeiserBucks]

There's two questions we need to answer first, what's your honest budget and do you reload ? That'll help narrow things down quickly.

 

[realunlucky]

Yes I will be reloading but like the safety blanket of a factory offering instead of a true wildcat. I will revaluate if the wildcat choice is vastly superior.

Budget as cheap as possible lol. I have about $1200/1500 for a rebarrel and maybe another $800/1000 for optic and rings. $2200 all in, can it be done?

 

[WeiserBucks]

Tell us more about the current rifle, do you already have a good trigger? Scope rail? Are you going to use the current stock for sure? Those items add up quick and absolutely need to be addressed.

Are you just wanting to shoot 800 for practice and fun or is the end goal to take game at 800? What game are you after?

 

[realunlucky]

In it's current state it's a 30/06 with a trigger tech. I fluted the factory barrel and it made it super finicky accuracy wise. I like the B&C Alaskan stock well enough but not sure there's an upgrade out there that won't eat to much of my budget.
This will be my everything rifle so 600 max for hunting but want the option to ring steel way out there. I drew a Barbary sheep tag in New Mexico and that's pushing me to fast track this project.

 

[WeiserBucks]

A higher quality stock is going to put a big dent in the budget, especially if you want it professionally bedded and want different bottom metal.

My recommendation is to send the barreled action to Chad Dixon at LRI. He's one of the best available and has quality barrels on hand. Super fast turnaround time. If you're going 280AI I would recommend an 8 twist to handle any of the popular bullets available. You'll be well under budget using the current stock and trigger.

Everything else is pure preference VS necessity. Want a threaded barrel and a brake? More money.
Want it fluted ? More money. Want a top quality stock or chassis? More money. I'd be spending my money on the barrel and quality gunsmithing, then using the rest of the budget on the best used scope I could find. Don't be afraid of used optics, they're a great way to step up your gear without going broke.

 

[realunlucky]

Thanks. Lots to take in for sure but I agree if you look for ways to spend money you can sure find them in a rifle project.

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[Salmon River Solutions]

Unless your really trying to keep the weight down I would keep the B&C stock. I love triggertechs so you've already got that.

For barrels, you can go fluted to reduce weight a bit, but not much, it does look cooler though. there are lots of good barrel manufacturers. I've always heard good things about Benchmark barrels, and have a buddy that lives local to them and shoots with a few of the guys over there. From what he says about them, I would go with a benchmark if I was going with a steel barrel.

I think your budget is pretty easy to hit, and you could probably also have the smith blueprint the action while your at it. I have a leupold VX5HD and absolutely love it. I see a lot of people hating on their tracking but I haven't had any issues, and it only weighs 20 oz. You could also go with a used nightforce SHV.

Caliber? I like the tried and true for a hunting rifle with lots of factory options just in case i cant reload, like right now because I'm out of powder. 7mm? 300 win mag? my two votes.

Good luck!

 

[LaHunter]

Thanks for checking out this thread and starting me down the right path to success . Please drop some of your knowledge in the comments below.

I've decided to rebarrel my old reliable Remington 700. Goal is a single all-round budget rifle that can stretch it's legs to 800 yards. Also important is trying to keep the rifles wieght as manageable as possible.

Caliber:--it's a long action so I'm currently leaning towards a 280ai any other top choices I should be looking at?
This is probably a solid choice, assuming you will be reloading.

Barrel manufacturer:--how important is choosing a certain brand? Where is the top choice?
I have had good luck with Krieger barrels, but there are several really good options. Check out the Precision Rifle Blog website. He breaks down what components the top PRS guys are using. I think Bartlein is the #1 barrel in the top PRS ranks now.

Barrel profile:-- obviously bigger is better but heavier what's a good balance? I doubt I can go the carbon route due to price. Fluted or not?
Fluting only adds $$ and really doesn't reduce much wt. Weight is your friend when shooting long range. Recoil management is real, and light guns are more difficult to shoot long range. I personally have a #6 Krieger 7mm rem mag at 26". My rifle is heavy, but it shoots and I do pack it while mule deer and / or elk hunting. I have total confidence in it.

Brakes:-- I've never shot one but a new barrel is the best time to have one installed. What is everyone using? Here's what I'm seeing with brakes what am I missing? Pro's spotting hits on target. Cons noise and with a 280 is it really necessary?
I have never had one on my rifles because too many times in hunting situations, I take the shot with no ear protection. A muzzle break just adds to the ear blast. They do help with recoil management, however. This is a personal choice.

Stock:-- is there a budget choice out there? Currently have a B&C which I like ok and might just stick with to save some money. Chassis what's the advantage on a hunting rifle?
I have had good luck with HS Precision. There are better stocks available, but with more $$. You can add an adjustable cheek riser to most stocks, which is really helpful for LR shooting

Gun smith:-- I see that the price varies a bunch and every one I've thought about using has a waiting list. Are they the make or break component in this whole mix? What should one expect to spend on a project like this?
The gunsmith is a critical part of the equation, they are not all equal. Do your research on the builder. I have used Alamo Precision in the Dallas area and have been very happy with their work and customer service. Again, check out the Precision Rifle Blog and he lists the top gun builders that the top PRS guys are using.

Optic:-- yes I've read the never ending debates about this but for the record do I need a heavy SOB for dialing? What's the light wieght choices?
This has been worked over pretty well in the Optics section and the Long Range section.
The Long Range Hunting Forum (different website than RS) is a pretty good place to read reviews too

Rings:-- looking at the Hawkins hybrid as I'd could avoid a rail. Opinions?


There's some amazing knowledge on Rokslide about long range shooting, I'm hoping a few of you guys will be willing to share here. Thanks





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[Rifles And More]

Pick a bullet first.

Stay in the case head range(.470) and find the slickest bullet you can. Use that long action to your advantage and make sure you have enough room to seat the bullet properly and cycle through the action (i.e. pick a short action cartridge). Get the twist right - you will need a fast twist to stabilize. 24" or 26" to help with velocity, med/heavy contour. Keep the stock, replace or tune-up the trigger.

Nightforce, SWFA, Bushnell with solid mounts. I like the Burris XTR rails and mounts. I use a 25MOA rail.

 

[SDHNTR]

Thanks for checking out this thread and starting me down the right path to success . Please drop some of your knowledge in the comments below.

I've decided to rebarrel my old reliable Remington 700. Goal is a single all-round budget rifle that can stretch it's legs to 800 yards. Also important is trying to keep the rifles wieght as manageable as possible.

Caliber:--it's a long action so I'm currently leaning towards a 280ai any other top choices I should be looking at?

Barrel manufacturer:--how important is choosing a certain brand? Where is the top choice?

Barrel profile:-- obviously bigger is better but heavier what's a good balance? I doubt I can go the carbon route due to price. Fluted or not?

Brakes:-- I've never shot one but a new barrel is the best time to have one installed. What is everyone using? Here's what I'm seeing with brakes what am I missing? Pro's spotting hits on target. Cons noise and with a 280 is it really necessary?

Stock:-- is there a budget choice out there? Currently have a B&C which I like ok and might just stick with to save some money. Chassis what's the advantage on a hunting rifle?

Gun smith:-- I see that the price varies a bunch and every one I've thought about using has a waiting list. Are they the make or break component in this whole mix? What should one expect to spend on a project like this?

Optic:-- yes I've read the never ending debates about this but for the record do I need a heavy SOB for dialing? What's the light wieght choices?

Rings:-- looking at the Hawkins hybrid as I'd could avoid a rail. Opinions?

There's some amazing knowledge on Rokslide about long range shooting, I'm hoping a few of you guys will be willing to share here. Thanks





Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Good choice in caliber.

So many good barrels out there. Use what your smith prefers and has access to. I’d go 24” and 8 twist.

I have a 7mag on a fluted Benchmark #4 that I think is just about ideal. Got a Bartlein 2b that is similar too. A heavy sporter contour is what you want. Personally, I like fluting yes for the looks but also because I can go up a contour and it weighs about the same as the one less.

Get your 700 trued and squared. Most Smiths will do this with a bbl job. You can also slab out the sides of the receiver, drill the handle and put an aluminum knob on the bolt to save weight.

nothing wrong with your B&C stock but there are lighter choices. My favorite hunting stock is a McMillian Hunter with edge fill. But that will add $500 to your job. I do not understand the appeal of a chassis stock. Tactidork if you ask me, but I’m a traditionalist.

I wouldn’t brake it unless you were committed to wearing ear plugs. I also don’t think you need it on your choice in caliber. If I did go this route, I’d want it threaded with the option of a thread protector when you remove it.

Just use Talley Lightweight rings. No need for a rail. Talleys are light and effective. They offer plenty for the ranges you mentioned. I would drill/tap out the receiver holes to 8-40.

Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 is the best long ish range capable scope out there if you are worried about weight. There is one for sale here off a Kimber rifle for $1000. 16 oz. with custom turrets you should be able to get to 700 no problem.

I see roughly about $1200-1600 in your gunsmithing work depending on options you choose, sans new stock.

good luck!

 

[BRTreedogs]

Where is it you live Sam?
I'd highly suggest calling Travis at Rbros
Excellent gunsmith, great guy, very helpful and is very honest about what works and doesn't.
You may have a wait.
But it will be super legit.

 

[30338]

Shaenrifles.com can install a barrel in about 2-3 weeks or so. I'd buy a #2 Hawk Hill or Benchmark, 8 twist, 6.5-284 throated to shoot 140 vld. Keep your stock and bed the lug. 23-24" would be nice.

If on a budget, buy a SWFA 6x or 10x scope for $300. Bed a rail to the action and buy some Seekins rings. What I'd do anyway, like mine a lot. Good luck.

 

[HawkinsPrecision]

Thanks. Lots to take in for sure but I agree if you look for ways to spend money you can sure find them in a rifle project.

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When you're ready, let us know about rings, muzzle brake and bottom metal if you end up needing it. Our Long Range Hybrids are made for lightweight hunting, and the Ultra Light Tactical line is not much more in weight, but you will need a Pic rail. Our muzzle brakes are made to be effective and send less concussion back at the shooter.

In Utah we really like Blue Mountain Precision or Preece Precision!

www.hawkinsprecision.com

 

[Justin Crossley]

Sam,

I think you're on the right track with the .280AI. Nothing wrong with it for what you're asking it to do.

For barrel, I think you can pick just about any brand and get good results as long as your smith is capable.

Do you need a break? No. Does it make your rifle better for long range hunting? IMO, Yes.
I have never heard a single good reason not to install one on a long range hunting rifle other than the fact they add cost. I think it's worth it and install one on all my rifles.

Your stock is probably fine for now and you can always swap it out later. Save money there for a better scope.

For scope on that rifle I would recommend the Nightforce 5-20x56 SHV or a used Nightforce NXS if you can find one in your price range.

 

[30338]

When you're ready, let us know about rings, muzzle brake and bottom metal if you end up needing it. Our Long Range Hybrids are made for lightweight hunting, and the Ultra Light Tactical line is not much more in weight, but you will need a Pic rail. Our muzzle brakes are made to be effective and send less concussion back at the shooter.

In Utah we really like Blue Mountain Precision or Preece Precision!

www.hawkinsprecision.com

Son bought a set of your bottom metal. It is a very nice piece. Highly recommend.

 

[Justin Crossley]

Another option I was thinking about that would work for you is to just get a Christensen Mesa in 300 PRC 28 Nosler instead of building on your action. Really hard to beat for the money.

 

[realunlucky]

Another option I was thinking about that would work for you is to just get a Christensen Mesa in 300 PRC 28 Nosler instead of building on your action. Really hard to beat for the money.

I looked hard into just buying something in 6.5 PRC but I really just want to stick with this action. It's pretty sentimental and I want to be carrying it with me. Plus it's exciting to try and collect all the pieces and have it all put together.


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[realunlucky]

When you're ready, let us know about rings, muzzle brake and bottom metal if you end up needing it. Our Long Range Hybrids are made for lightweight hunting, and the Ultra Light Tactical line is not much more in weight, but you will need a Pic rail. Our muzzle brakes are made to be effective and send less concussion back at the shooter.

In Utah we really like Blue Mountain Precision or Preece Precision!

www.hawkinsprecision.com

Your products look top notch defiantly be checking them out when the time comes.
You list the hybrid low rings at .5 and the ultra-light tactical at .88 plus the rail. I've had a 40/42 mm scope so if I go that route both rings will be fairly high. I had better start looking into 50/52mm scope but adds more wieght so may decisions on where to try and cut wieght.



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[realunlucky]

Pick a bullet first.

Stay in the case head range(.470) and find the slickest bullet you can. Use that long action to your advantage and make sure you have enough room to seat the bullet properly and cycle through the action (i.e. pick a short action cartridge). Get the twist right - you will need a fast twist to stabilize. 24" or 26" to help with velocity, med/heavy contour. Keep the stock, replace or tune-up the trigger.

Nightforce, SWFA, Bushnell with solid mounts. I like the Burris XTR rails and mounts. I use a 25MOA rail.

Thinking about the 162 eld-x is a good place to be with a 280ai.
Lots of 8 twist recommendations.
Think 24" is as long as I want to go for length.

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