Not my Tikka! Fired engaging safety

[Marbles]

Factory definitely tightens to over 87 in.lbs (I've been saying 90 in.lbs, but my Borka actually tops out at 87 in.lbs).

My T1x has the trigger as installed at the factory and my wrench breaks over without budging it.

 

[DANNY-L]

Good to now, it could apply to other brands also.

 

[Choupique]

trust most "gunsmiths" less than I trust myself

Same, but I have enough mechanical sense for it. The one AD I ever had was from a loose trigger screw on a timney installed by a gunsmith.

People lose sight of the fact that their tweaking on the go switch of a gun when they start jacking with stuff below the stock line.

 

[Sled]

In general, I try to put things back the way they came out. Sometimes I have a better way to do it or I'm fixing a problem the mfg didn't anticipate. When I do that, I try to account for any other variables I may be creating down the line. If I'm torquing small threads down with loctite, then I use wet thread values. I'm not too concerned about the bolt on the trigger body stripping out, so I put it back on just about as tight as it came off but I add 242. I could certainly grab a torque wrench for that but I just don't find it necessary. After working on vehicles and larger weapon systems, my built-in torque wrench gets me close enough. That said, there are many circumstances where I wouldn't even consider not using a torque wrench.

 

[Choupique]

but I add 242

Im like the franks hot sauce lady with LT242

I put that shit on everythinf

 

[Sled]

Im like the franks hot sauce lady with LT242

I put that shit on everythinf

I'm kind of funny that way too. I'll use vibra tight on a few things but in general it's either 242 or anti-seize. Not much in between. Just depends on the application and how much corrosion I can expect.

 

[Choupique]

A man can do a whole lot with 242 and never sieze.

As a bonus, 242 does alright as a corrosion inhibitor in most applications. You have to be liberal with it, but it does pretty dang good. It also doesnt get all over everything for the rest of eternity like never sieze.

I was taking a very large crankshaft coupling apart on a ship, probably 120 or so black oxide 12.7 M24 socket head bolts, and it was immediately apparent which ones the original assembler did not put 242 on. Every bolt that was drenched in 242 broke loose cleanly and evenly. The bolts could have been reused. The ones he missed were rusted in and required a full size larger hydraulic torque head to break, which is basically double the torque.

242 is really good stuff. I use it on everything that I dont use 272 on. 272 is excellent as well. Its much gooey-er and seals better. The fitting compounds are really good for bonding rails and rings and stuff. I dont put much of anything of importance together without some type of Henkel product on it.

With a trigger screw like the tikka one, id use 272. I cant imagine why id ever need to remove it again but if I did, its very easy to get to with substantial tooling and the action is easily held firmly in a vise. 272 is stout but its going give before the bolt snaps or anything.

 

[Amos Moses]

Any tricks for keeping the mag retention spring square with the additional torque?

 

[T_Widdy]

Any tricks for keeping the mag retention spring square with the additional torque?

 

[B_Reynolds_AK]

Knipex plier wrench works really well for keeping the spring straight.

 

[Sled]

With a trigger screw like the tikka one, id use 272. I cant imagine why id ever need to remove it again but if I did, its very easy to get to with substantial tooling and the action is easily held firmly in a vise. 272 is stout but its going give before the bolt snaps or anything.

I pull the trigger group anytime the action is out of the stock and there's a chance of damaging it. If your mag retention clip gets bent you'll need to remove the bolt for replacement. The most common time that someone will pull the trigger group is for changing the trigger spring. The adjustment screw is purposefully built to dead end into the retention bolt for the trigger group. That way they don't have to only tell you not to go below a certain poundage because you can't if you're using the factory spring.

 

[IDElkmagnet]

My tikka has been transported many times, in a case in the bed of a truck, in the cab of a truck, dropped from my f250 w 8” lift in pelican case, into the woods in a rifle rack on an atv

Peak rokslide content is drop testing a tikka out of an 8" lifted superduty in a pelican.

 

[K9kodi]

We passed

 

[JoeK]

Can anyone share the length of the trigger housing screw in question here? I know its m6x1.0 but forgot to measure the length before I just torqued mine back on with paint.

I need to get another one and figured I'd visit my local hardware store instead of paying $10 a pop for "tikka" trigger screw online...

 

[Marbles]

Can anyone share the length of the trigger housing screw in question here? I know its m6x1.0 but forgot to measure the length before I just torqued mine back on with paint.

I need to get another one and figured I'd visit my local hardware store instead of paying $10 a pop for "tikka" trigger screw online...

It is M6x20 mm.

Just make sure you get class 12.9, I would not replace it with something weaker than the factory one.

 

[JoeK]

Thank you. class 12.9 vs 10.9 distinction noted.
I may only find class 10.9 at my LHS in which case I’ll just resort to the interwebs.

 

[Marbles]

Thank you. You WOULD replace with a weaker one? Typo there?
I may only find class 10.9 at my LHS in which case I’ll just resort to the interwebs.

Yes, typo, should read "would not" and now corrected.

 

[JoeK]

Bingo