Not my Tikka! Fired engaging safety

[fwafwow]

Might want to read the reviews before buying that one.

After some thought and PMs with another member, I decided to get the Fix It Sticks 140 in lbs torque limiter.

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-5-to-75-ft-lb-professional-flex-head-click-torque-wrench-58953.html

I just bought this one after much debate. I broke a bolt with a bigger Pittsburg torque wrench. Ugh. And the bolt I broke is almost impossible to find. Expensive mistake.

 

[Fatcamp]

Not sure if the quality used to be better but I have one in my tool box (exact one posted for $18) that belonged to my father for many years. He has been dead for 23 years which means the wrench is over 30 years old and works fine. Its assembled several small block fords as well as general mechanic work.

I've had one for years. Used extensively for all kinds of mechanic work including engine rebuilds. Mine is bigger than the one quoted, but same manufacturer.

It always worked fine until it didn't. Broke the upper shock bolt in a 1993 Sportster which is an expensive bolt to replace. Made me sad.

I took a long look at options and found many folks who had the same experience as I did. That $18 wrench has hundreds of 1 star reviews due to not working properly. Hundreds. That's not a fluke or people using them improperly. The one I posted has 2. Not everyone can afford a better option, but dang it broken bolts suck.

 

[TaperPin]

Apparently Amazon knows when “1/4” torque wrench” is spoken out loud. Creepy.

On the plus side it’s 1/6 the price of a Gearwrench, has close to the same accuracy rating and has a lot of good reviews.

 

[Fatcamp]

Apparently Amazon knows when “1/4” torque wrench” is spoken out loud. Creepy.

On the plus side it’s 1/6 the price of a Gearwrench, has close to the same accuracy rating and has a lot of good reviews.

View attachment 995073

Wait until you talk about infidelity with your coworkers.

 

[nm.otter]

https://torqwrench.com/ has been making them since 1938, and OEM for Snap-On, Craftsman (1970s), and others. They show up on eBay (rebuilt and calibrated) from time to time. You can still get parts.

 

[Sled]

Wait until you talk about infidelity with your coworkers.

I've had a few of those pop up in my feed. Lately I've been stressed and it keeps giving me divorce attorney ads. Try to explain that one to the wife.

 

[ShakoMako]

Given the popularity of Tikkas on this forum I really think a wiki-style pinned thread on this topic is in order.

There’s a lot of noise to signal in both threads about not messing with factory Sako or Tikka triggers- which to be clear I’m good with not messing with them.

However my takeaway is installing the action into a chassis or sending it off to be threaded results in potential that trigger bolt needs to be tightened very tight- the original “slam fire” thread said 65+ in lbs but now we see Sako recommending 130 in lbs.

I fed both this thread and the Slam Fire PSA thread into chatGpT to synthesize key findings. I am glad to offer it up as a 80% solution to be pinned at the top of this forum and subject to revision based on new information. I’m not an expert on Tikka actions, just a concerned end user.

Just wondering if anyone else reading this or the other threads would find a summary useful.

 

[5MilesBack]

Easy bud, don't bruise your back..

It's most likely a frustration thing, not a pride thing.

 

[Tahoe1305]

Given the popularity of Tikkas on this forum I really think a wiki-style pinned thread on this topic is in order.

There’s a lot of noise to signal in both threads about not messing with factory Sako or Tikka triggers- which to be clear I’m good with not messing with them.

However my takeaway is installing the action into a chassis or sending it off to be threaded results in potential that trigger bolt needs to be tightened very tight- the original “slam fire” thread said 65+ in lbs but now we see Sako recommending 130 in lbs.

I fed both this thread and the Slam Fire PSA thread into chatGpT to synthesize key findings. I am glad to offer it up as a 80% solution to be pinned at the top of this forum and subject to revision based on new information. I’m not an expert on Tikka actions, just a concerned end user.

Just wondering if anyone else reading this or the other threads would find a summary useful.

I’ll be honest. I’m not smart nor trust AI shiz (yes I’m getting old). That said I’m fine with you posting it here as long as you make note of it being such at the top so people know.

As far as pinning it, I’m not sure how to do that. I was equally caught off guard which bothers me a bit.

Heck, if there are any other gotchas out there that folks know with Tikkas, I’d love to know if them now before I put another hole in the deer blind.

 

[fwafwow]

Given the popularity of Tikkas on this forum I really think a wiki-style pinned thread on this topic is in order.

There’s a lot of noise to signal in both threads about not messing with factory Sako or Tikka triggers- which to be clear I’m good with not messing with them.

However my takeaway is installing the action into a chassis or sending it off to be threaded results in potential that trigger bolt needs to be tightened very tight- the original “slam fire” thread said 65+ in lbs but now we see Sako recommending 130 in lbs.

I fed both this thread and the Slam Fire PSA thread into chatGpT to synthesize key findings. I am glad to offer it up as a 80% solution to be pinned at the top of this forum and subject to revision based on new information. I’m not an expert on Tikka actions, just a concerned end user.

Just wondering if anyone else reading this or the other threads would find a summary useful.

I also don’t understand why the specs aren’t in the Tikka manual (at least that I could find). I think some have said that the company thinks that’s not something the user should mess with, but they do offer the ability to reduce the trigger pull. And Sako does include the specs. Seems inconsistent.

I’m not sure I want to rely on AI, but maybe it’s better than my own abilities.

 

[ShakoMako]

I’ll be honest. I’m not smart nor trust AI shiz (yes I’m getting old). That said I’m fine with you posting it here as long as you make note of it being such at the top so people know.

As far as pinning it, I’m not sure how to do that. I was equally caught off guard which bothers me a bit.

Heck, if there are any other gotchas out there that folks know with Tikkas, I’d love to know if them now before I put another hole in the deer blind.

I don’t generally trust AI 100% either but it’s useful for summarizing large bodies of information, subject to community verification.

As for pinning I’m sure that’s up to the mods of this forum, subject to consensus that this Tikka Rokslide hive mind would benefit from that. Probably more useful than some of the obscure topics that somehow get selected for “pinning” at the top.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[nm.otter]

Maybe we need a pinned "Start Here" thread on Tikkas. Half a dozen bullet points (with links to the gritty details) would have been super helpful to me a few years back.

 

[Marbles]

Heck, if there are any other gotchas out there that folks know with Tikkas, I’d love to know if them now before I put another hole in the deer blind.

My list:

-Don't do anything that gets the trigger pull below 2 pounds (the T3x and Sako S20 say a trigger adjusted to less than 2 lbs is unsafe, the TRG manual says 2.9 lbs, but that is a different trigger, KRG says 2.5 lbs for the Midas).

-Don't replace the factory trigger spring as aftermarket springs are prone to wearing out prematurely resulting in an unsafe trigger pull weight.

-Tighten the trigger housing screw. 133 in.lbs from some Sako manual posted by @Formidilosus as it is not listed in the S20 manual nor the T3/T3x/T1x manual. ***The TRG has a "user removable" trigger group, but no torque spec in the manual. Standard dry torque for the class 12.9 M6x1 bolt used is 18 Nm (159 in.lbs), so 133 in.lbs should be fine.
***I say use some form of threadlocker give the safety critical nature.

-A long base screw in the front hole for a rail or ring can cause light strikes.

That covers all I can pull out off the top of my head.

I’m not smart nor trust AI shiz (yes I’m getting old).

I'm not old enough to call myself old, but I despise AI as it is all A with no I at present.

 

[nm.otter]

• Bolt stop compatibility and changes.
• Magazine compatibility (including CTR and AICS mods).
• Barrel contours, fluting, and threading.
• Ring bases.
• Stock mods, including barrel channel.
• Bolt disassembly & cleaning.

 

[Choupique]

My list:

-Don't do anything that gets the trigger pull below 2 pounds (the T3x and Sako S20 say a trigger adjusted to less than 2 lbs is unsafe, the TRG manual says 2.9 lbs, but that is a different trigger, KRG says 2.5 lbs for the Midas).

-Don't replace the factory trigger spring as aftermarket springs are prone to wearing out prematurely resulting in an unsafe trigger pull weight.

-Tighten the trigger housing screw. 133 in.lbs from some Sako manual posted by @Formidilosus as it is not listed in the S20 manual nor the T3/T3x/T1x manual. ***The TRG has a "user removable" trigger group, but no torque spec in the manual. Standard dry torque for the class 12.9 M6x1 bolt used is 18 Nm (159 in.lbs), so 133 in.lbs should be fine.
***I say use some form of threadlocker give the safety critical nature.

-A long base screw in the front hole for a rail or ring can cause light strikes.

This is a good list.

My list is shorter:

If you dont have a high level of mechanical acuity, dont jack with stuff on guns, particularly anything to do with the trigger. Dont change trigger springs. Dont modify anything. Dont do anything. Just load it and shoot it. If you MUST modify it, pay someone to do it or at minimum educate yourself to the highest degree on what safety concerns there might be, primarily by checking with the rokslide experts first.

Risking an AD just isnt worth it and if you aren't very mechanically inclined and safety minded, dont it.

 

[HuntHarder]

I'm not old enough to call myself old, but I despise AI as it is all A with no I at present.

I used to think like this as well. It is only as smart as the user input imo. Knowing how to properly form questions is key, or knowing how to continue digging after the first response. Recently, I loaded our companies policy and procedures pdf, as well as our safety manual. Absolutely amazing how fast it can answer almost any question concerning those documents.

Also recently used AI to compare and contrast contractual changes. Very intelligent in my opinion in waaaayy less time.

 

[nm.otter]

recently used AI to compare and contrast contractual changes. Very intelligent effective in my opinion in waaaayy less time.

FIFY.

 

[HuntHarder]

FIFY.

Thanks, my mistake..

 

[Marbles]

This is a good list.

My list is shorter:

If you dont have a high level of mechanical acuity, dont jack with stuff on guns, particularly anything to do with the trigger. Dont change trigger springs. Dont modify anything. Dont do anything. Just load it and shoot it. If you MUST modify it, pay someone to do it or at minimum educate yourself to the highest degree on what safety concerns there might be, primarily by checking with the rokslide experts first.

Risking an AD just isnt worth it and if you aren't very mechanically inclined and safety minded, dont it.

I trust most "gunsmiths" less than I trust myself.

Even manufacturers screw stuff up. KRG specifies 55-65 in.lbs for that M6 screw when installing a Midas trigger. I would expect a gunsmith to go with that in most cases if your had them install a Midas.

At 90 in.lbs I am still tighter than any recommendation I have seen outside of this thread.

I would be interested in seeing a Tikka/Sako S20 armorer's manual.

 

[Tahoe1305]

I trust most "gunsmiths" less than I trust myself.

Even manufacturers screw stuff up. KRG specifies 55-65 in.lbs for that M6 screw when installing a Midas trigger. I would expect a gunsmith to go with that in most cases if your had them install a Midas.

At 90 in.lbs I am still tighter than any recommendation I have seen outside of this thread.

I would be interested in seeing a Tikka/Sako S20 armorer's manual.

I just shot Sako an email. Curious what they’ll say.