Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I had never heard of this issue either, which is surprising given the sheer volume of Tikka info and shooters here.Yes. I don’t think I had a full 133 in lbs.
Like many I remove the OEM springs to put in chassis and whatnot. I’ve always used the “just get it as tight as you can” method. Wasn’t enough I guess in my case. Torque wrench clearly applied more torque in my case.
I wasn’t aware this was a “common” issue. I’m pretty active on the forum and have been for some time (8 years I’m guessing) but first I’ve seen anyway.
If nothing else it’s another thread that may help some folks in similar position. I know for a fact some folks are going to check tension on em.
No, 140 should be just fine. Still under the rating for the screw. Even if it is off by 10% on the high side, you will still not exceed the screws rating.Looks like Fix-It-Sticks only has 100 and 140 in/lbs. Would the 140 be too much? This thread has me wanting to verify my own shit.
Looks like Fix-It-Sticks only has 100 and 140 in/lbs. Would the 140 be too much? This thread has me wanting to verify my own shit.
Unfortunately Harbour Freight doesn’t ship to Canada but I was able to find one on Amazon. Thanks guys!
20-20 inch pounds for $18.
Thread locker isn't going to hurt anything. I will probably switch all mine over from blue to red and just use a heat gun if I need to take the trigger off.Is anyone using or should you use some sort of thread locker
I know this isn't really the point of this thread, but since it came up... on the factory mag spring thing... is it a "no longer necessary, but doesn't hurt anything" situation if you leave it in when switching to a chassis?
I'm a bit new to Tikkas, and I left mine alone when I dropped it in a XLR Element. Seems to function without issue.
By "it" - do you mean "the allen bolt with the Red paint" in post #26?I got back and took a look first thing.
It was loose, just a bit. Enough for a small wiggle.
I, for some reason, had 65 in lbs in my notes and must have been oblivious or taken that spec from a wrong source.BL: I don’t think I’ve been using the full 133 spec’d torque. And guessing those without a wrench or something other than a maxed out Allen key are getting it either. But I’ve been wrong before. Guessing I was closer to 80-90 in lbs using just the Allen wrench.
Thank you for the thread.Time to check the tikka family for similar.
It was a good lesson to learn and no one got hurt, so counting it as a win.
Appreciate the replies.
Guess I will order this, as my Borka also goes only to 70.
20-20 inch pounds for $18.
By it I meant the entire assembly and thus the only bolt holding it together (the one with the red paint). The bolt was still snug, but it needs to be tight to allow zero movement. And apparently tighter to not back out.By "it" - do you mean "the allen bolt with the Red paint" in post #26?
The T3x manual is not as specific as the Sako that Form posted. Am I missing/overlooking the similar torque specs?
I, for some reason, had 65 in lbs in my notes and must have been oblivious or taken that spec from a wrong source.
Thank you for the thread.
Guess I will order this, as my Borka also goes only to 70.
Thanks. I am one to overlook a lot of things (just ask Mrs. fwafwow), but 133 in lbs is so out of the norm (beyond my tools), I must admit to being completely ignorant on this. I'm going to search to see how I missed it.By it I meant the entire assembly and thus the only bolt holding it together (the one with the red paint). The bolt was still snug, but it needs to be tight to allow zero movement. And apparently tighter to not back out.
I haven’t seen that spec before either.
You're a glutton for punishment. The patience for people who don't trust you shows you could've been a great Kindergarten teacher in another life.I love leading horses to water and them refusing to drink, only to collapse later due to dehydration.