Noob Questions

[cofen380]

This part gets confusing so ask for clarification if I don't explain well.

1. Each Manufacturer will rate the poundage of the limbs on a given riser length. For example, most Olympic Recurve limbs will be marked for a 25" riser. Tradtech limbs are marked for a 17" riser. So you need to verify what length riser the limbs your buying are marked for. In this example a 40 pound set of Tradtechs and a 40 pound set of WinWins will weigh very different from each other on a 21" riser.

2. As riser length shortens the poundage of any limb will increase, and as the riser lengthens the weight will decrease.

3. I wish it was a direct science, but each riser manufacturer will increase and decrease at a gi en length differently. This is due to the limb pad angle on the riser and amount of reflex of deflex.

4. A good rule of thumb is 1.25 pounds per inch of riser change. So a set of limbs that are marked 40# on a 25 inch riser, would be close to 50# on a 17" riser.

For what you are looking for, I would reccomend the following. I'll give two scenarios.

If you buy limbs marked for a 25" riser...
I'd buy a 21" riser, long limbs, and have the limbs be in the 35-40# range.

If you buy limbs marked for a 17" riser....
I'd buy a 21" riser, long limbs, and have the limbs marked right around 40-45#.

Man I had to read that several times haha. You explained it well, I’m just wrapping my head around these concepts. So knowing this, manufacturers are marking their limbs for a specific length of riser in order to have consistency in the draw weight and total length for those limbs on that length of riser, correct? So technically, like you suggested, I don’t have to use the recommended length of riser for certain limbs, but I’ll need to account for the draw weight change that happens if I go with a different sized riser than what the limbs are marked for. Am I on the right track?

I’m looking at a 21” cheap riser right now and limbs marked for a 25” riser (they say 70”, so I’d end up with a 66” total length) and the limbs are 34lbs. That sounds about like what you’re describing. I’m guessing the weight I’m actually pulling would be closer to 45lbs by the time I factor in my long draw and the shorter riser.


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[nevadabugle]

Man I had to read that several times haha. You explained it well, I’m just wrapping my head around these concepts. So knowing this, manufacturers are marking their limbs for a specific length of riser in order to have consistency in the draw weight and total length for those limbs on that length of riser, correct? So technically, like you suggested, I don’t have to use the recommended length of riser for certain limbs, but I’ll need to account for the draw weight change that happens if I go with a different sized riser than what the limbs are marked for. Am I on the right track?

I’m looking at a 21” cheap riser right now and limbs marked for a 25” riser (they say 70”, so I’d end up with a 66” total length) and the limbs are 34lbs. That sounds about like what you’re describing. I’m guessing the weight I’m actually pulling would be closer to 45lbs by the time I factor in my long draw and the shorter riser.


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Yes sir you are on the right track. Limbs weighed on a 25" riser are the standard for Olympic limbs. Limbs weight on a 17" riser are the standard for most hunting Limbs. When in doubt moat Limbs are marked with the riser length.

I think your explanation of what you are looking at should be close. You can always screw in the limb bolts to get a few more pound. Like I said, it's not an exact science so I would guess you'll be between 40 and 48 with what you described.

 

[cofen380]

Yes sir you are on the right track. Limbs weighed on a 25" riser are the standard for Olympic limbs. Limbs weight on a 17" riser are the standard for most hunting Limbs. When in doubt moat Limbs are marked with the riser length.

I think your explanation of what you are looking at should be close. You can always screw in the limb bolts to get a few more pound. Like I said, it's not an exact science so I would guess you'll be between 40 and 48 with what you described.

Awesome. Can’t thank you enough for the help. That clarifies a lot and allows me to wade through all the options with a little more confidence.


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[Vaquero 45]

Cofen380 have you gotten to the thoughts on tab/glove yet ?
Plan on shooting off a hump ? Elevated rest ? Both . Vanes or trad feathers ? Both ?

 

[cofen380]

Cofen380 have you gotten to the thoughts on tab/glove yet ?
Plan on shooting off a hump ? Elevated rest ? Both . Vanes or trad feathers ? Both ?

I’m leaning towards a tab as of right now. Not completely sure on the hump and elevated rest yet, and I’m leaning towards feathers so I can shoot off the shelf


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[Beendare]

What many don’t get about going from compounds to trad is that its not so much about strength….but being able to feel proper alignment while executing a perfect shot. compounds are very forgiving of many parts of alignment…and then most use a mech release that makes it even easier to shoot pretty good even with very bad form.


I have a 30.5” DL and shoot a 64” ILF recurve. String angle matters more with trad bows And shooting fingers especially 3 under which I recommend. Think of how much more you have on the string vs a tiny release barrel.

I would recommend a 21” riser with longs=66” for a 32” DL at a minimum…68 is probably better. For you, learning on an Oly setup(25” riser) isn’t a bad idea.

A longer bow has many advantages for long draw guys. …especially when learning….back to that string angle thing.

Its a huge advantage to start very light. This makes it easier to feel back tension, good alignment and perfect a finger release. 30-35# is a good start and its easy to buy $60 ilf limbs you can sell later.

You just don’t get all that starting with a heavier/shorter bow.

 

[cofen380]

I have a 30.5” DL and shoot a 64” ILF recurve. String angle matters more with trad bows And shooting fingers especially 3 under which I recommend. Think of how much more you have on the string vs a tiny release barrel.

I would recommend a 21” riser with longs=66” for a 32” DL at a minimum…68 is probably better. For you, learning on an Oly setup(25” riser) isn’t a bad idea.

A longer bow has many advantages for long draw guys. …especially when learning….back to that string angle thing.

Its a huge advantage to start very light. This makes it easier to feel back tension, good alignment and perfect a finger release. 30-35# is a good start and its easy to buy $60 ilf limbs you can sell later.

You just don’t get all that starting with a heavier bow.

I’m starting to put some of these pieces together based off of what I’m seeing here and researching elsewhere. Definitely planning on 3 under with a fixed crawl since I want to hunt with it eventually. Also looking at a 21” riser (galaxy) with Olympic limbs that will give me a 66” bow. I need to look more into the string angle thing though and how that affects the shot. I’m only familiar with that somewhat in the compound world.


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[cofen380]

What many don’t get about going from compounds to trad is that its not so much about strength….but being able to feel proper alignment while executing a perfect shot. compounds are very forgiving of many parts of alignment…and then most use a mech release that makes it even easier to shoot pretty good even with very bad form.


I have a 30.5” DL and shoot a 64” ILF recurve. String angle matters more with trad bows And shooting fingers especially 3 under which I recommend. Think of how much more you have on the string vs a tiny release barrel.

I would recommend a 21” riser with longs=66” for a 32” DL at a minimum…68 is probably better. For you, learning on an Oly setup(25” riser) isn’t a bad idea.

A longer bow has many advantages for long draw guys. …especially when learning….back to that string angle thing.

Its a huge advantage to start very light. This makes it easier to feel back tension, good alignment and perfect a finger release. 30-35# is a good start and its easy to buy $60 ilf limbs you can sell later.

You just don’t get all that starting with a heavier/shorter bow.

Do you have any recommendations for cheap starter limbs?


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[Beendare]

I’m starting to put some of these pieces together based off of what I’m seeing here and researching elsewhere. Definitely planning on 3 under with a fixed crawl since I want to hunt with it eventually. Also looking at a 21” riser (galaxy) with Olympic limbs that will give me a 66” bow. I need to look more into the string angle thing though and how that affects the shot. I’m only familiar with that somewhat in the compound world.


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Stringwalking and Fixed Crawl is tougher with long draw/short bows. Not that it can’t be done…just tougher. Same goes with starting with a heavier bow.

Aiming system matters. Plenty of instinctive guys killing stuff at very close distances. ….BUT I have never seen an instinctive guy win a tournament. Those are the Gap shooters….and Stringwalkers where legal. That tells us something When it comes to longer and varied distances.

FC is a very accurate aiming technique for slot distances- like hunting from a treestand at 20y.

 

[Beendare]

Do you have any recommendations for cheap starter limbs?


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Yeah, name brand ILF limbs- WNS, Samick, many name brands make a lower end limb under $100. You can literally recover 80% of that reselling them on AT classifieds.

The secret; almost all of the cheap name brand ILF limbs are very good. True, you get a little better performance from the more expensive limbs but you typically pay a lot for them.

Check Alt Services in the UK, great service.

Some I really like;
$150-$200- WNS C3 or C5’s, most would be hard-pressed to tell the difference between those C5 and a $700 limb. WNS makes excellent limbs.

$300- Uukha Gobi’s and the Nika N3 ( sold direct from Nika)
I think you guys will be hard-pressed to find better all around limbs at any price.

Ultra high performance, Borders, Morrison Max6, Uukha high end all carbon but a higher % of problems.

 

[cofen380]

Stringwalking and Fixed Crawl is tougher with long draw/short bows. Not that it can’t be done…just tougher. Same goes with starting with a heavier bow.

Aiming system matters. Plenty of instinctive guys killing stuff at very close distances. ….BUT I have never seen an instinctive guy win a tournament. Those are the Gap shooters….and Stringwalkers where legal. That tells us something When it comes to longer and varied distances.

FC is a very accurate aiming technique for slot distances- like hunting from a treestand at 20y.

That’s what makes me lean towards the fixed crawl. I love the idea of repeating the same crawl every time and only needing to change point of aim slightly at short distances. Low light situations make we weary of string walking, and having huge gaps with gap shooting also scares me.


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[bisblue]

66" bow, light limbs, springy or elevated rest, 3 under, and learn to gap.

Once you can hit the target, you can go all crusty wood bow, wood arrows. Learn to shoot then go crusty. Harder to go the other way...

Can't recommend light limbs enough, good form will really pay dividends when you get your hunting weight limbs.

I shoot #50@30 and buried my Broadhead in an elk this year, 32 3/4 instinct 500 arrow weighing 600 grains. It stuck in the opposite shoulder blade where I had to pull out the 3 blade with pliers. Shooting a well tuned bow and arrow is the best thing you can have for performance, and you can only do that with good form. It will also really help you shoot the compound better.

I've shot a fixed crawl here and there. Just start out gap shooting, you might night even need a crawl. Add in that complexity/ tuning work once you get a foundation.

Have fun.

 

[cofen380]

Yeah, name brand ILF limbs- WNS, Samick, many name brands make a lower end limb under $100. You can literally recover 80% of that reselling them on AT classifieds.

The secret; almost all of the cheap name brand ILF limbs are very good. True, you get a little better performance from the more expensive limbs but you typically pay a lot for them.

Check Alt Services in the UK, great service.

Some I really like;
$150-$200- WNS C3 or C5’s, most would be hard-pressed to tell the difference between those C5 and a $700 limb. WNS makes excellent limbs.

$300- Uukha Gobi’s and the Nika N3 ( sold direct from Nika)
I think you guys will be hard-pressed to find better all around limbs at any price.

Ultra high performance, Borders, Morrison Max6, Uukha high end all carbon but a higher % of problems.

Yeah and I’m totally fine with having something cheaper at first that gets me what I need without crazy performance. This are great suggestions thank you


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[cofen380]

66" bow, light limbs, springy or elevated rest, 3 under, and learn to gap.

Once you can hit the target, you can go all crusty wood bow, wood arrows. Learn to shoot then go crusty. Harder to go the other way...

Can't recommend light limbs enough, good form will really pay dividends when you get your hunting weight limbs.

I shoot #50@30 and buried my Broadhead in an elk this year, 32 3/4 instinct 500 arrow weighing 600 grains. It stuck in the opposite shoulder blade where I had to pull out the 3 blade with pliers. Shooting a well tuned bow and arrow is the best thing you can have for performance, and you can only do that with good form. It will also really help you shoot the compound better.

I've shot a fixed crawl here and there. Just start out gap shooting, you might night even need a crawl. Add in that complexity/ tuning work once you get a foundation.

Have fun.

At one point I was definitely torn between a more primitive wood bow and the aluminum ILF bows. That’s pretty much been settled for me now that I’ve seen the benefits of the ILF. I think you’re right though, learning my gaps will probably pay big dividends with whatever aiming system I choose.


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[Beendare]

There are some great Wood ILF risers…but when you get over 19”, not so many options.

Where there are many good options for cheap name brand limbs, there are not many good cheap wood risers…many are OK…some total garbage. Don’t expect a sub $120-ish wood riser to be any good. At least with metal you know it won’t break.

That F261 forged aluminum riser for under $150 is a steal.…but only up to 19” AFIK

 

[cofen380]

There are some great Wood ILF risers…but when you get over 19”, not so many options.

Where there are many good options for cheap name brand limbs, there are not many good cheap wood risers…many are OK…some total garbage. Don’t expect a sub $120-ish wood riser to be any good. At least with metal you know it won’t break.

That F261 forged aluminum riser for under $150 is a steal.…but only up to 19” AFIK

That’s been my experience so far from what I’ve seen. Glad to see other people having the same experience. what is the major difference in quality between a $100 metal riser and one thats $500?


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[Beendare]

That’s been my experience so far from what I’ve seen. Glad to see other people having the same experience. what is the major difference in quality between a $100 metal riser and one thats $500?


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I’m the wrong guy to ask…most of the expensive metal risers are tailored to target guys. Some of it is country of manufacture, the f261 is a foreign nok off, Satori is US made with higher labor and profit margins

The 70m target guys definitely have specific preferences on weight and feel.

This is 2 I’ve cracked, the company has since changed their design a little. Probably fine for a short draw guy…or someone only shooting 40#.

 

[cofen380]

I’m the wrong guy to ask…most of the expensive metal risers are tailored to target guys. Some of it is country of manufacture, the f261 is a foreign nok off, Satori is US made with higher labor and profit margins

The 70m target guys definitely have specific preferences on weight and feel.

This is 2 I’ve cracked, the company has since changed their design a little. Probably fine for a short draw guy…or someone only shooting 40#.View attachment 646923

Yeah that makes sense. I do like the durability aspect of a metal riser, even if it’s a cheap one


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[bisblue]

John Mosier makes at least two hunting risers that are usually around 350-400$ new. A lighter and a heavier model both great for hunting. Just to give perspective.

South Cox at stalker stickbow makes fancy wood ilf risers that are probably 700$+ and very customizable.

 

[lhbackcountry]

I started with 42-44lb draw when I came from a compound also shooting 75ish and didn’t have any issues after using a clicker, as far as bow length I’m not sure, you have a way longer draw than me at 27-3/4 I’m still playing with overall bow length, I’m sure someone with way more knowledge than me will chime in soon.

This^ wish someone had told me to start lower and work on my form over just hoping to draw the heaviest thing

I stayed with samick sage for years til got a few then upgraded to nicer custom recurve and still havnt made the switch over but from shooting friends Hoyt satoris that will be the next in my collection