Noob paper tuning question

[Recluse]

Sorry for the dumb question: How does one determine what a tear is, if the orientation of the vanes is rotated (like in the picture). Is that a vertical tear?

My understanding it's the arrow spins upon release, so it won't always go through paper cock up?

 

[doncarpenter]

Don't worry what the vane orientation is. Find where the point is hitting the paper and where the nock is going through.

That picture is a nock left tear.

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[Recluse]

Thanks. So I should just look at what it's doing through the paper at that moment in time?

I guess what's confusing for me is every example I see of paper tears has an example of each tear to an extreme degree lol

 

[doncarpenter]

You should paper tune at different distances. Start close and move further. Do one correction at a time. For example if your seeing a nock high right. Do vertical changes only until that's fixed, then move onto the horizontal adjustments.

Paper tuning is a starting point for me because I am a bowhunter and broadhead flight is my end goal. Once I get a good enough paper tear, I go and tune to broadheads.

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[4rcgoat]

Sorry for the dumb question: How does one determine what a tear is, if the orientation of the vanes is rotated (like in the picture). Is that a vertical tear?

My understanding it's the arrow spins upon release, so it won't always go through paper cock up?

Look into bare shaft tuning as well, a lot of us skip the paper.

 

[Zac]

You can stick the tip of your field point into some lipstick in order to tell the difference between point impact vs vane impact. After paper at 21 feet you can move to 20 yards with a bare and a fletched shaft. A bare shaft hitting left of the fletched will require the same adjustment as a right paper tear. A bare shaft hitting right of the fletched shaft will require the same adjustment as a left paper tear. From here you can go to broadheads. You will simply substitute the bare shaft with a fletched shaft with a broadhead. If the broadhead hits to the left of the field tip, you will make an adjustment for a right sided paper tear. If the broadhead hits right of the field tip you will make corrections for a left paper tear.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Thanks. So I should just look at what it's doing through the paper at that moment in time?

I guess what's confusing for me is every example I see of paper tears has an example of each tear to an extreme degree lol

Paper tuning gives you a snapshot of how the arrow is flying at a particular distance. Ideally you want to see the tears made by the vanes centered around a perfectly circular tear made by the shaft (aka, a "bullet hole" tear). The radial position of the vanes relative to the shaft is irrelevant and will change with distance; it doesn't matter if the vane tears are at 12-4-8 o'clock or 2-6-10 or any other possible orientation.

In your photo above, the shaft tear is slightly oblong due to the nock end of the arrow being slightly left of the point end as the arrow passed through the paper. Shift your rest slightly to the right or adjust your cams (shim slightly left or add half twist to left yoke/subtract half twist from right yoke) if you want to try to eliminate the nock left tear. Or just call it close enough and move on to bareshaft and/or broadhead tuning.

 

[Recluse]

Thank you both!

For broadhead tuning: If my broadheads hit RIGHT of my field points, I move my rest RIGHT?

What about if my broadheads hit ABOVE my field points ? Do I also chase my broadheads and move my rest UP?

 

[Zac]

Thank you both!

For broadhead tuning: If my broadheads hit RIGHT of my field points, I move my rest RIGHT?

What about if my broadheads hit ABOVE my field points ? Do I also chase my broadheads and move my rest UP?

If your broadheads are hitting higher that field points that means you have a nock low tear. You would want to move your rest down, or your D loop up.

 

[xcutter]

Lipstick on the field point is a good tip mentioned above. I do it all the time. I also put lipstick on the vanes. This makes it real easy to see what the arrow is doing going through the paper. I also printed out the Goldtip paper tuning guide that Tim Gillingham made for quick reference on how to correct arrow flight.

 

[mwh624]

Just use paper to get close then bare shaft tune to get truly dialed in. Any bow that I've bare shaft tuned will put broadheads in the same spot as field points.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Thank you both!

For broadhead tuning: If my broadheads hit RIGHT of my field points, I move my rest RIGHT?

What about if my broadheads hit ABOVE my field points ? Do I also chase my broadheads and move my rest UP?

Here's a handy guide from Gold Tip's website that compares various tuning methods and shows what adjustments to make:

 

[jmez]

Beware bare shaft flight has as much or more to do with your form as it does the tune of the bow. If you are new to bows I would recommend you not shoot bare shafts at 20 yards.

Bare shaft flight is only useful if you have good and repeatable form on the shot.

 

[4rcgoat]

Beware bare shaft flight has as much or more to do with your form as it does the tune of the bow. If you are new to bows I would recommend you not shoot bare shafts at 20 yards.

Bare shaft flight is only useful if you have good and repeatable form on the shot.

Great point,i start bare shaft tuning at about 4 or 5 yards.