New to waterfowl.. what gear?

[PorterNY]

My son and I started goose and duck hunting recently. We are just using a few decoys and figuring things out as we go.
What gear is a must have ?
What do you guys use to hold extra shells in the field?
Thanks
Steve

 

[nettereo16]

Oh boy. Waterfowl gear really piles up.

If your waders dont have shell loops they have clip-on shell holders.
Jerk cord works awesome. Jetsled is also awesome for transporting gear.

 

[isItFallYet]

Where do you plan on hunting? Hunting coastlines can be much different than hunting lakes, ponds, rivers, and flooded areas. Besides waders, a reliable gun, and camo, I think a good blind bag is essential. I’ve actually ditched the traditional blind bag and have been using a yeti Hopper to keep my shells and gear in since it floats and is absolutely waterproof.

 

[ShortMountain91]

have been using a yeti Hopper to keep my shells and gear in since it floats and is absolutely waterproof.

This is brilliant. Will have to start doing this myself!

 

[KurtR]

field or water hunting? If you think back country hunting has gear waterfowl is another level haha

 

[Puldo Bruce]

If you’re hunting dry land or shallow water, I’d look into silhouette decoys from Divebomb or Big Al’s. The cost of full body goose decoys is crazy, and they take up a bunch of space.

I bought Simms G3 waders a few years back, and I rarely wear my neoprene or breathable waders anymore. It’s a steep investment, but they’re way more versatile than boot waders.

 

[Squid]

Another vote for silhouette decoys if field hunting. I can easily fit 20-30 dozen in the back of my pickup with blinds. A goose flag is also essential. Like $20-30 and turns more geese than my calls. I use a wader pouch/handwarmer as a fanny pack for shells. Holds about a box.

 

[PorterNY]

We own a farm.. so we will be hunting cornfields, ponds, crick/rivers…
Thanks for the advice so far… we have good shotguns and waders from fly fishing.
I will look into all the decoys you guys mentioned etc…. Seems like you can buy a lot of them used in the off season

 

[PorterNY]

This was our first outing last week as two south pawed rookies.

 

[Spindrift]

Waterfowl is largely a buy once cry once deal, with maybe the exception of motorized decoys which need to be replaced frequently and lost decoys from time to time.

Buy a dozen nice decoys like Dakota or Tanglefree flocked. Texas rigs are worth their weight in gold. You don’t need a mega spread to start.

Calls are cool because you’ll always have them. I still have my nearly 30 year old Avery call that is still a really nice option for quiet, tight calling. Don’t buy an expensive call until you master the cheaper, easier calls.

Shotgun chokes matter. Even if you’re shooting a basic gun, invest in a good aftermarket choke. You’ll be glad you did. Lube it up every season.

For clothing, buy a nice outerwear set to start, if you can. Sitka or First Lite are likely the best, then maybe Drake or Chene or something in that middle ground. Good outerwear with the base layers you already have will make a LOT of difference in your comfort and enjoyment. Wool is your friend. This is one of the only pursuits we do where concealment and camo actually matter for most situations.

Waders…just don’t buy the cheap stuff, as you’ll be lucky to get a season. Plenty of middle ground and yes, fishing waders like Simms work great. Sitka are very expensive and has had durability issues but generally stand behind their product. First Lite apparently has waders coming next year which are supposedly bombproof but will also probably be expensive . We’ll see. No wader lasts forever but cheap ones will ruin your hunt.

 

[KurtR]

Divebomb decoys are the way to go. we have sold almost all our full bodies. The layout chairs with the ghillie blanket that divebomb have are great we have not used the layout blinds yet this year and hunted some low cover spots. Goose flag is very important and less is more when calling. Tips and tails is what i have learned when you get after them. I need new waders i try to avoid water hunts but will be going to Arkansas next year and going to get some chene gear. Expensive but everyone has said worth it and they will fix them. Lucky duck spinners on the remote so you can turn them off when geese are coming big geese hate them

 

[JeffP_Or]

Seems like you can buy a lot of them used in the off season

Used market and after season sales are great - especially these days [decoy prices are crazy right now and have been for a year+].

I would say, get the basics to get in the field and go from there; the more you learn and experience for the area you hunt, the more you will know what you 'need'. Each situation will be different and by the time you settle on best fits for that area, you'll want to expand your opportunities and get to start all over again!

From the photo, you're off to a good start.

 

[dkell]

Wind resistance + waterproof + insulation are the way to go.
For clothing I run:
Some kind of merino base layer
Sitka Boreal Jacket
Sitka Boreal Hat
Sitka Neck Gaiter
Merino gloves
Hand muff

That system I have paired down from having multiple pieces to fit the same slot from years prior. I also hunt in North Minnesota so it gets reallll cold come November.

I like the Dr. Duck chest rig that clips on to my waders. I can fit a bunch of shells in there plus my phone and whatever else. This allows me to have my jacket under my waders which makes a big difference with heat retention. I will second an aftermarket choke but also nothing will replace solid shooting fundamentals. I run 2 dozen Dakota decoys Texas rigged with a jerk cord and motion decoys when I’m feeling like doing the extra work. Our group generally runs quite a bit more decoys though.

I try not to bring a blind bag if I can help it but I currently own the Alpz Outdoors one and I do like it. I would also invest in a floating gun case…shit happens. I also second having an otter tail or a jet sled. It makes things much easier if you aren’t boating in to your spot. I still have a call from 15 years ago that sees use but a single reed coupled with a double reed covers a lot of territory.

Waterfowl is a super gear intensive sport but it’s one of my favorite lifelong pursuits. As experience comes you figure out what you can get by with because lugging a ton of shit with you every outing does get old. Best of luck and cheers to making awesome memories!

 

[spur60]

You can kill ducks all season long with 10 year old waders, a dozen old duck decoys, and a pocket full of 2 3/4" steel 3's. Binos, windshield time, and learning the patterns of the birds in your area will get you more birds than any other piece of gear. That being said, I have a storage unit full of waterfowl gear. It's addicting. If you stay in the game long enough you end up with duck floaters, goose floaters, 5 bags of goose silhouettes, 2 bags of goose sleeper shells, 2 bags of duck wind socks, a dozen mojos, 500 snow goose wind socks, 4 layout blinds, 4 backrests, 2 otter sleds; fliers, rotary machines, e-callers for spring snows....I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things too.

 

[WCB]

Get a good backpack style blind bag that is waterproof. You can keep all your extra gloves, hats, headlamps, shells, calls, etc in one spot. A hand muff is a must for me. My rule is absolutely no shooting with gloves on so hands are in the muff nice and warm.

Realistically what do you "need" if decoying...decoys, call, shells, shotgun, correct clothing (you in no way shape or form need the latest and "greatest" Sitka system). Waterfowlers in general are gear snobs and doo hickey connoisseurs.

DO NOT use shell belts or built in shell holders on waders. good way to contaminate ammunition with moisture.

Knowing when and how to call makes way more of a difference than what call you have.

Layout backboards/chairs with a blanket or even a Avery Powerhunter blind without the stupid face cover is the way to go. I have all but abandoned actual layout blinds...unless there is snow and I use the snow cover.

 

[PorterNY]

I absolutely appreciate all this advice. Thanks again everyone. As we get into it more I’m sure I’ll have more questions.

 

[Rob5589]

You're already killing birds so you have what you need. You'll learn as you go and where you hunt as to what changes you need to make to your set up. I would suggest waders that have insulation if standing in cold water for any length of time. Breathable is the way to go. If hunting fields a lay out blind is valuable. I've used expensive dekes and cheapie Cabela's bulk dekes. They all work. Robos are sometimes worth it, sometimes not. I hunt mostly fed and state refuges and find they aren't worth my time usually. They may be better for you since you're on private.

Like others said, you'll start stacking up gear if you guys really get into it. Pick up stuff as you go and you'll have nowhere to put it all in no time lol.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Rob makes sense. After 20 years of burning money, to a Newbie I would:

Skip the calls. I love calling. Have since I was a kid. I am hands down better than most I've crossed paths with. I love the art and skill. But a call isnt really necessary. A drake whistle is easy to run and will probably finsih more ducks than anything else.

Add motion to your decoys. 12 Good decoys are better than 100 shitty ones. I like color and whites in my decoys. Even if you're 100% mallard....a few light colored Pin drakes etc will get you noticed from further out/up. Jerk lines are cheap. But I've flared a ton of birds picking out my jerk CORD.

100% camo. Think turkey hunting. To finish birds (finish is getting lethal shooting distance. You'll think birds are in range and spend $$$ on choke tubes and bismuth....aint at the equipment. You're shooting at 50+. You'll know when they're under 40 yards....cuz they'll fold up and hit the water hard.

Big Game camo is just fine. You don't need Sitka wetlands....Mossy or Real whatever will work.

Don't look up at the birds. Painted faces and low hat bills = more birds.

Get your ass out of bed. Earlier than you though. I am forever a procrastinator. And every morning, even at 51 years old....I could use more time for for the light cracks. EVERY TIME. I could fill in more brush or set myself up better with more time. Very rare I am in my blind, layout, hide or whatever...sipping a coffee waiting for light. Always more things I could do.

Lastly if the birds are landing 60 yards out, up wind or down wind....they don't like something. Change it. Don't be lazy. You need more camo, more brush, less muddy and dirty decoys, more motion....something.

 

[jayhawk]

That looks like nothing but a good time!

I think the things that have flared more flocks for me have been poor concealment and poor calling. Just practice calling during your commute to work, and put extra effort into your hide. Everything else you just pick up as you go. But I think those mojo things really do help sometimes.

 

[Idaho4x4Bronco]

What about identifying ducks during the hunt? What's the trick to that you've figured out as you're starting out? The idea of over limit is terrifying