New to reloading advice

[Seth1913]

First, I’m sure this has been beat to death here and on every other Internet forum. And I’m sorry to keep it alive but thanks for stopping by and even more thanks if you share some knowledge.

I’m looking for some advice/critique on the setup I’m getting into and some help on clarifying parts/techniques.

Rifle: Ruger m77 22” Bartlein barrel (haven’t selected twist rate just yet but 1-8 is what it’s looking like)

Cartridge: 280 AI
Tools:
-Redding big boss

-RCBS hand priming tool

-Redding deluxe 3 die set 280 AI

-MTM Universal Reloading Tray Compact 50-Round Plastic Gray

-RCBS Trim Pro-2 Manual Case Trimmer Kit

-Lyman Universal Case Preparation Kit

-Hornady Lock-N-Load Press and Die Conversion Bushing Kit

-National Metallic Rotary Case Tumbler Kit with Media Separator Set

-RCBS Collet Bullet Puller Collet 284 Caliber, 7mm (284 Diameter)
RCBS Collet Bullet Puller

-RCBS Shellholder #3 (308 Winchester, 30-06 Springfield, 45 ACP)

-mitutoyo 500 caliper
-RCBS Trickler

​

As far as components go I’ve been able to pick up the following
-Winchester StaBALL 6.5,Reloader 19, and imr 4895
-150 grain Nosler accubondsLR
Things I don’t have but want:
- federal 210s, CCI250/200/br2
-Peterson 280ai brass might just have to fireform remington 280 because Peterson brass seems non existent.
-155 grain hammer hunters
-I’d also like to try 160-170 class bullets

My most confusing parts so far are powder measurement and dispensing and priming. Manual powder throwers seem awfully expensive to no just go with an electric one and at the volume I’ll be doing it why not just use the Lyman scoops, a trickler and a good scale?

Primer seating. How do you “feel” the right seating depth? Are the hand primers adjustable? What’s the difference between seating on a press, are the seaters on the press adjustable?

What other gauges/measurement devices should I get to be set without buying EVERYTHING? (Headspace gauges, OAL gauges, concentricity, etc.)

I feel like there’s a lot to make the jump to reloading so I want to make sure I get it right as I can the first time and not wishing for something else in the end. So please critique my setup, help
Me save some money and not lose interest from being overwhelmed. Thanks.

 

[Rich M]

I'll bite - you should do a search on here, maybe you have. Half the stuff that is sold and recommended is not necessary.

Get a $25 Lee powder dispenser gadget - it's plastic and cheap feeling but it throws an accurate charge. I use it for handgun and rifle loads. https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90058-Perfect-Measurer/dp/B000NTMJLG

A good scale is a requirement. Set the powder dispenser and check it for 10 throws. Mine rarely varies even the slightest. Powder shape makes a diff too.

I have a single stage press; scale' that lee powder thingy; caliper; case lube for rifle brass; trickler but found out that I don't need it; hand primer; and some dies.

You will feel the primer seat with a hand primer - keep the open end of the brass pointed away from you in case a primer goes off. With the single stage press, there is a spring loaded arm that swings in, you'll feel when it is primed. Nothing to it.

Haven't trimmed or cleaned brass in 12 years - I do measure it and my loads don't seem to make the brass grow... 3006 at 2,900 fps. 243 at 2850-2950 fps. 350 legend at 2350 fps. run of the mill "vanilla" loads and tight shooters.

You are gonna need a chrono or magnetospeed or lab radar if you want to be serious. With a $100-class chrono, you need to understand that it is a "close enough" kind of tool and readings may vary by the day and cloud cover or brightness of the sun. I find it good enough for figuring things out. It is also good to have a known bullet that you can verify the chrono and how its reading on any given day.

Reloading is fun - I find the overall length of the cartridge (bullet seating depth) to be important. I start with the manufacturer's recommended length and see how it shoots with diff powder loads - you find the one that groups the best, then you make it longer and longer till the groups tighten up. There are tools and techniques but I'm being simple cause its fun to tinker.

 

[Zappaman]

Today, I'd just use what I have and only get what I need.

In time you'll accumulate more stuff (usually because you'll reload other cartridges). Hand priming gives you better "feel" and is pretty fast too. But take your time getting a "feel" using what you have. Primers should be "felt" as slightly lower into the pocket- using your finger each time. Don't worry if a few primers feel a touch higher or lower- as long as they set at least level with the brass... you're fine.

One trick I have is a simple paper clip- straightened out but bent in the back (so you can hold it from twisting), then with a shorter (1/4") bend at the tip. You can very quickly run a "ring" around the inside of the primer pocket (and "pop" the hole while your at it) and get old carbon out as fast as the fancy "tools" (primer pocket cleaners).

I still go to my 1987 Speer reloading manual for tips and tricks... and for the loads for more traditional (long-lived) powders. A good manual also gives you a "fast check" when you find a load online too.

Any scale works fine for rifle... but the electric RCBS really is nifty when you are loading up more than a few shells... especially pistol. But a good thrower (Lee $25) also works well for volume stuff too.

Just make sure and cross all the "t's" and dot all the "i's" and develop good bench habits (ONE powder out at a time, check twice/load once, etc.) and you'll be fine.

GOOD LUCK!

 

[PRC_GUY]

Reloading is a hobby and relax. I enjoy reloading and shooting. When you start reloading, it will hit your wallet.

 

[Harvey_NW]

That should be a sweet rifle. I just built a Tikka 280ai with a 1:9 Bartlein barrel, shooting 162 eld-m with h4831sc at mag length and it shoots lights out.

I agree with much of what was stated above. I'm using a prochrono dlx ($120 or so) and it matches magnetospeed velocities and has been flawless as long as the diffusers are on and it's 10+ feet from the muzzle. The blutooth app is super user friendly and very convenient for storing notes. I like it because it doesn't affect groups. As said, chrono's are just an assisting tool, for long range you'll end up tuning your ballistics in a calculator.

I bought the RCBS kit when I started and it came with a powder throw and beam scale. The throw is super inconsistent so I set it up to toss a grain or more below and just trickle up slowly. Consistency is key. Color a bullet with a sharpie and toss it in your drawer so you can use it as a calibration weight and check throat erosion down the road.

I have the RCBS hand primer and although it isn't adjustable, it seems to work fine. I find it more convenient than setting up the press, and you'll learn how to feel the resistance and tell if your primer pockets are loosening up a lot easier than with a ram handle.

OAL gauge is handy to have but gets mixed reviews and there are other ways to measure. Hands down most important tool to precision reloading IMO is a headspace gauge or comparator body with bullet and bump gauge inserts. I measure COAL as a reference, and use CBTO (Cartridge Base To Ogive) for all intents and purposes. Correct full length sizing die setup for consistent .002" shoulder bump is key. I used to do everything, every time. I have since developed a habit of just using good components, trim them all if they grow past max spec, clean the necks out with a nylon brush, load consistently, have fun shooting. You'll develop your own preferences and style.

Do some research on how to identify signs of pressure. Work up slow and have patience. Good luck, and welcome to the rabbit hole!

 

[menhaden_man]

Check out RCBS videos online, basic stuff that’ll help.

Videos From RCBS

RCBS instructional videos about our products and how to learn handloading.

www.rcbs.com

 

[Txtrapper10]

Welcome to the world of reloading, sounds like you have a good start. Gotta love .280AI

 

[Mulyhuntr]

-Forster co-ax
-rcbs chargemaster. The lee powder dispenser mentioned above is junk imo.
-Redding bushing dies. I've had good luck with Hornady match bushing dies as well.
-mituyoto caliper
-I'm not a big fan of rcbs universal hand primer. Get a 21st century if you want the best. Or Amazon has the Frankford arsenal hand primer on sale.

 

[Wrench]

I'd suggest that you do not reload. There are barely enough components for me and one more guy pirating parts isn't going to help.

 

[Tipps]

I started a while back and have only used an RCbS chargemaster. Been very happy with it. I like the hand primer feel vs. using press.

The hornady coal gauge/set is pretty useful imo for finding lands and such. Sounds like you got most everything else covered.

 

[PRC_GUY]

Welcome to reloading clubhouse,

 

[Seth1913]

Thank you all for the helpful replies! Sounds like I’m overthinking a lot of stuff and just to load it and shoot!

I will definitely be picking up a bullet and bump gauge. From all my research it seems that cbto is a better measurement than coal as long as mag length isn’t the restriction. is that correct? And is the hornady modified case the only way to find the lands or are there other ways? I don’t have a lathe to make a modified once fired case.

Crimping seems to be a debate but not necessarily needed for most rifle cartridges and having consistent neck tension is more important. Now that brings up the bushing vs regular dies are bushing dies really that much better or will a regular die work just as good?

 

[N2TRKYS]

COAL measurements are fine and have worked very well for me over the years. I didn’t waste my money buying an oal gauge. It’s not needed. I shoot bolt action rifles, so I never crimp. I use regular RCBS FL die sets. They’ve proven to be very accurate for me.

 

[Harvey_NW]

I will definitely be picking up a bullet and bump gauge. From all my research it seems that cbto is a better measurement than coal as long as mag length isn’t the restriction. is that correct? And is the hornady modified case the only way to find the lands or are there other ways?

CBTO is the most accurate measurement, especially if you're measuring jump or tracking throat erosion. The variance in bullet OAL and tip deformation can throw those numbers off enough pretty significantly if you're trying to be precise and consistent.

The Hornady gauge is a debatable tool in terms of accuracy, I use it as a convenient reference and as long as you're delicate I seem to get repeatable results. Send a 2x fired case to Hornady and they'll tap it on a lathe for $15 I think, or take one down to your local machine shop, I'm sure they'll do the same. Or, if you buy one of the factory dummy cases, just use the bump gauge to measure that and a fired case, and add the difference to your overall measurement.

There are multiple ways to find the lands without using that tool though, I believe the most accurate is Alex Wheelers method of stripping the bolt and going by feel. Search finding the lands in YouTube, plenty of content. You have to decide HOW precise you NEED to be for your application.

Crimping seems to be a debate but not necessarily needed for most rifle cartridges and having consistent neck tension is more important. Now that brings up the bushing vs regular dies are bushing dies really that much better or will a regular die work just as good?

Crimping is not needed with bolt rifle cartridges. Most factory expander balls that come in FL sizing dies are set to .0015-.002" neck tension, which I've found to be fine. Bushing dies are modular and provide options for people that neck turn, want to set neck tension by OD, wildcatting off of the same cartridge and don't want to buy an extra die, etc. Some wildcat dies are only offered in a bushing die. There is some speculation that bushing dies can induce runout. Keep it simple, physics says expanding out over a mandrel will provide more consistent/concentric results, and dudes have been developing ace loads with standard FL sizing dies for decades. IMO that extra money is better spent on components for more trigger time.

 

[Rock-o]

I saw somebody mentioned getting a chronograph. I have one... that I have never used. Not once. Put that money toward something useful. I shoot to 1000 yards fine without knowing speed. If I want it I can back into the number with a ballistic calculator. But, the number does not matter.

 

[35WhelenAI]

That's great you have a 1000 yard range you can back into the ballistics with. I don't, and most folks don't. At least with respect to doing any regular range work. A chronograph is a great tool to find consistent loads. It gives information that can be valuable at longer ranges such as extreme spread.

I'm really curious that you bought a chronograph and have never used it? Maybe offer it to someone on the forum, or the OP. Then pick up something that's more useful.

 

[Rifles And More]

Buy this: Top-Grade Ammo by Glen Zediker

Read it cover to cover and then get going!

 

[Rock-o]

That's great you have a 1000 yard range you can back into the ballistics with. I don't, and most folks don't.

I'm really curious that you bought a chronograph and have never used it? Maybe offer it to someone on the forum, or the OP. Then pick up something that's more useful.

I don't have a 1000 yard range. I found a place I can shoot to 800 (put targets every 100 yards). Collected data. Then when I had an opportunity to shoot to 1000 I plugged my data into a ballistics calculator to get drops for the additional distance. I also compared that data to Sniper's Hide Weaponized Math X Factor. That system alone is very powerful. I have acquired solid DOPE using only that system - to 800 yards - in about 15 shots. Better shooters I bet could do it with fewer.

I never used the chronograph because, after I bought it, that's when a skilled person taught me it's not needed (and that was before I learned about Weaponized Math). I will be parting with it sometime this summer after I stroke curiosity of comparing what it reads vs a ballistic calculator.

 

[35WhelenAI]

That's pretty cool, that will be great information to see how they compare. It sounds like you've been taught well and have it pretty well dialed in.

 

[Rock-o]

I think so, though I suspect there are many people who already have a good idea of how this will play out. I just don't personally know many people that reload and of those people I don't know of one that uses a chrono. That's not to say they don't or don't have one.

Yes, I had a fantastic teacher. The same person went through my first load development with me as well. Great load, great rifle... but disappointingly I'm not a great shooter. Maybe if I practiced more.

Sorry, OP, back to topic.