If you were to start reloading today?

[TheCoyote]

Back in the 1990 my grandfather taught me how to reload and we did it primarily to save money. Components were cheaper than buying a box of shells.

Then in the 2000s reloading components became more expensive and I realized that the only reason to reload was for enjoyment and/or to make more accurate loads for a specific rifle. Or to make something that isn’t commercially available.

However, now that a box of 20 rounds of loaded ammunition is so dang expensive again, I’ve done the math and reloading is cheaper again! Especially if you can get 4 or more firings out of one case.

 

[270-300]

Back in the 1990 my grandfather taught me how to reload and we did it primarily to save money. Components were cheaper than buying a box of shells.

Then in the 2000s reloading components became more expensive and I realized that the only reason to reload was for enjoyment and/or to make more accurate loads for a specific rifle. Or to make something that isn’t commercially available.

However, now that a box of 20 rounds of loaded ammunition is so dang expensive again, I’ve done the math and reloading is cheaper again! Especially if you can get 4 or more firings out of one case.

Id say it depends on the cartridge. When 300 win mag was $95 a box for all that was in stock here 3 years ago i was loading it for less, only because i had components from 5 years before.

I just bought some fiocci 22-250 40 grain vmax for $21 a box at a local store. I really cant load it for that. What components are here locally, would put it around 80 cents a round without brass price. A lot of time is invested, and with how unobtainable 22 250 brass is right now, im better off buying vmax on sale and shooting it, then reloading the brass with 60 grain spitzers for antelope, which are locally unobtainable as commercial loads, despite being the minimum bullet weight for several species in Wyoming.

 

[270-300]

Back in the 1990 my grandfather taught me how to reload and we did it primarily to save money. Components were cheaper than buying a box of shells.

Then in the 2000s reloading components became more expensive and I realized that the only reason to reload was for enjoyment and/or to make more accurate loads for a specific rifle. Or to make something that isn’t commercially available.

However, now that a box of 20 rounds of loaded ammunition is so dang expensive again, I’ve done the math and reloading is cheaper again! Especially if you can get 4 or more firings out of one case.

If your not getting more than 4 firings from a case, thats a bad sign. If the neck is cracking your annealing technique needs work. If your primer pockets get loose that fast, thats a good sign your loads are too hot, slightly, without being hot enough to make the case stick in the chamber or cause primer flow.

 

[TheCoyote]

If you’re not getting more than 4 firings from a case, thats a bad sign. If the neck is cracking your annealing technique needs work. If your primer pockets get loose that fast, thats a good sign your loads are too hot, slightly, without being hot enough to make the case stick in the chamber or cause primer flow.

Actually what I’m referring to is the cost to build a hand load goes down the more times a case is fired. Primer, bullet, powder are a static expense every bang. But if you fire a case 6 times, as opposed to 4 times, your hand loads are cheaper per shot…
For my setup, 3 firings is really the tipping point of hand loads being cheaper than factory ammo.

 

[TheCoyote]

Id say it depends on the cartridge. When 300 win mag was $95 a box for all that was in stock here 3 years ago i was loading it for less, only because i had components from 5 years before.

I just bought some fiocci 22-250 40 grain vmax for $21 a box at a local store. I really cant load it for that. What components are here locally, would put it around 80 cents a round without brass price. A lot of time is invested, and with how unobtainable 22 250 brass is right now, im better off buying vmax on sale and shooting it, then reloading the brass with 60 grain spitzers for antelope, which are locally unobtainable as commercial loads, despite being the minimum bullet weight for several species in Wyoming.

You are 100% correct. I buy 5.56 and 9mm. Loading for them isn’t even a consideration.

 

[270-300]

Actually what I’m referring to is the cost to build a hand load goes down the more times a case is fired. Primer, bullet, powder are a static expense every bang. But if you fire a case 6 times, as opposed to 4 times, your hand loads are cheaper per shot…
For my setup, 3 firings is really the tipping point of hand loads being cheaper than factory ammo.

I agree with your longer version there. If you are actively shooting it can make sense. For someone wanting to get 500 rounds on hand of a caliber they cant get free brass for, it can become tricky if they arent actively shooting new brass.

My responses were geared towards caution on recommending someone will Instantly save a bundle by handloading, mostly my suspicions were raised when the poster started talking about progressive presses. I stopped telling people i handload years ago because i got tired of the people at work who buy rifles and never shoot more than 300 rounds through them in the life of owning them, but are absoloutely sure i will be a resource for them to acquire inexpensive ammunition with zero contribution on their part.

 

[Basin&Range]

Thanks everyone for the insight and opinions. With the info I've gathered, I decided I'm going to start piecing together my kit as my budget allows and then I'll start loading a little later down the road once I get everything I want collected. To get started I ordered a rockchucker press since that seems most recommended and some hornady dies.

On my short list I have a case trimmer/prep station, comparator kit, bullet puller, a419 funnel kit and probably a electric powder measure. Has anyone used the Frankford Intellidropper to compare it to the Hornady or RCBS chargemaster? Also does anyone have a favorite bullet puller?

 

[Woolley Bugger]

If you're on a budget, I think an electric powder measure might be a "nice to have". I use a simple manual powder measure and am very happy with it.

I like the inertial bullet pullers. They're inexpensive, work well, and don't mar the bullets. I've had trouble with the collet style pullers leaving marks on roundnose bullets. I've recently started using the Grip-n-pull, which is the fastest option and doesn't mar the bullets, but requires a fair amount of grip strength.

 

[nm.otter]

Hornady's Cam-Lock puller works quite well.

 

[sodaksooner]

If you're on a budget, I think an electric powder measure might be a "nice to have". I use a simple manual powder measure and am very happy with it.

I like the inertial bullet pullers. They're inexpensive, work well, and don't mar the bullets. I've had trouble with the collet style pullers leaving marks on roundnose bullets. I've recently started using the Grip-n-pull, which is the fastest option and doesn't mar the bullets, but requires a fair amount of grip strength.

I agree here. I hand weigh every load, but I use reloading as kind of therapy and I don't load that many rounds so I don't mind the time it takes. Plus it is extremely precise. Like the OP I am just a hunter but I have worked up some pretty darn accurate loads.

Also, don't buy WW cases. I did during the pandemic as it was all I could get. Primer pockets and holes are extremely inconsistent. I just throw them away now after I shoot the loads already in them. At a minimimum I buy hornady brass but am looking into some of the high dollar stuff.

If you don't have a chronograph, they are nice to have and not that expensive. I have an ok one I would sell cheap as my daughter works for Garmin and just ordered me a 1st gen Xero (I don't need the functionality of the new one). With employee discount I got it super cheap. I use it much more for archery than I do the rifle,

My current 300wm load is pretty hot and still shoots damn accurately. I have a set of dies for my old 257 roberts and have a bunch of old ammo that was just set up as basic loads. Loaded in the 80's but still shoots well as I store them well. Ive thought about loading 223, but just doesn't seem very cost effective. Would be more for fun than anything else.

It is definitely fun, so I don't load a lot. I always have to set up everything every time I load.

 

[SheepCrk]

Agreed an electronic powder measure isn’t necessary but if you don’t already have a manual one and are willing to spend the money, the rcbs chargemaster supreme has great reviews for the price. Good call on the rock chucker.

 

[KY_coop]

I find myself switching dies alot and going through loading spurts where I load up a bunch of rounds for different rifles/cartridges. I have a frankford m-press ( forster coax knockoff) that has quick change dies but the press itself is just kind of ehh. My other press is a mec single stage and that thing is pretty nice, but if I were to do it over again I would buy a real nice turret press that way I could have 4 different die sets that dont need any setup. Either that or just get the forster coax and be able to swap dies quickly without setup.
I also have tried hand prep tools, hornady case prep trio, and the lyman 5 stage prep center. I think id like to try one of the 3 in 1 trimmer/chamfer/ debur units like the new rcbs/ hornady, etc.
Die swapping and trimming/ case prep is probably the most time consuming part of the reloading process. If I can streamline those things, I can save alot of time and headache.

 

[streamerfish]

I find myself switching dies alot and going through loading spurts where I load up a bunch of rounds for different rifles/cartridges. I have a frankford m-press ( forster coax knockoff) that has quick change dies but the press itself is just kind of ehh. My other press is a mec single stage and that thing is pretty nice, but if I were to do it over again I would buy a real nice turret press that way I could have 4 different die sets that dont need any setup. Either that or just get the forster coax and be able to swap dies quickly without setup.
I also have tried hand prep tools, hornady case prep trio, and the lyman 5 stage prep center. I think id like to try one of the 3 in 1 trimmer/chamfer/ debur units like the new rcbs/ hornady, etc.
Die swapping and trimming/ case prep is probably the most time consuming part of the reloading process. If I can streamline those things, I can save alot of time and headache.

Yeah, Turret is definitely nice when you do alot of bouncing back and forth to different die sets all the time.

It does depend a bit on what you reload, but if its a modern cartridge...just quit with all the brass prep stuff, save that time and headache.

 

[KY_coop]

Yeah, Turret is definitely nice when you do alot of bouncing back and forth to different die sets all the time.

It does depend a bit on what you reload, but if its a modern cartridge...just quit with all the brass prep stuff, save that time and headache.

Just rifle calibers for me. most of my brass now is at the point it doesn't need trimming anymore. Only tumble the brass very briefly after sizing to remove the one shot residue. I'm learning more and more on what I can get away with on skipping brass prep steps. I do still hit each piece with the debur/ chamfer/ neck brush before it gets primed though. May not be necessary

 

[4090Sharps]

Lee has some good dies and presses. I bought a Lee Classic 4-hole turret press, no kit. It’s really a progressive press, only the turret moves as there is no base plate with multiple shell holders. A pull of the handle advances the turret to the next station. I have case activation dies for the powder measure. Priming is on press also. To change calibers, just snap in another turret. Turrets go for about $10-12 each. I do not have case or bullet feeders.

If I am doing precision rifle, I just pull the indexing arm and turn the turret by hand to the next station. I also mounted a manual powder measure to the stand. I use two digital scales, thumb trickler on the primary scale. If both scales are within .1 gr of each other, the powder charge gets funneled into the case. When both scales don’t jive, I calibrate and zero both scales. Beam scales are not susceptible to EMI like the digital scales are. For my process, I have found it to be more efficient to dump the powder into all of the cases I want to load in that session. Then move to the press and seat bullets.

One thing I didn’t consider when I started was a bullet puller. You will need one from the start, guaranteed. The hammer type works but if you need to pull a dozen or so, you will probably want to go to a collet die. I have a Hornady which works ok but I have to change the collet for most calibers. If I could find a better one, I would spent the money. I am the odd man out for one shot…I use Redding sizing die wax. One tin lasts forever. I wear gloves when reloading anyway. Some make their own with a lanolin mix.

The Lee Classic Turret is my most used press of my 4 non-shotgun presses. I always recommend it for people getting into reloading. It’s so useful.

 

[rgilchrist28]

If you want to save money buy used stuff!
There are tons of guys selling old rock chuckers on here for cheap. I’ve never seen a worn out rock chucker. Most dies for any common caliber can be found used for half price. Try reloading just one cartridge and see how you like it. Put a WTB on here need reloading stuff, your inbox will be flooded.
Find a mentor that reloads and ask them to show you the ropes. There are plenty of old guys hanging around the gun range that have decades of experience and nobody to share it with.

Good stuff thanks! I used to reload a long time ago. Just now getting back into it.

 

[tstowater]

Once you find a load that you want to use, plan on buying components in volume when you can get a good deal on them. I don't like to run out of anything, especially when we have the wind change in DC or other issues that impact component prices. I can still load apples to apples 223 ammo for significantly less than you can buy it based on my actual component costs. I would not expect current costs, especially powder, to have a significant cost savings on 223. As to other cartridges such as 220 Swift, I'm sitting on about 2000 pieces of brass bought at very favorable prices and components to load all of it and then some. On an apples to apples load, yes my loaded ammo will be cheaper. Present component costs won't have the same cost savings.

Not likely that you can go to a LGS or most locations and buy small quantities at any favorable prices. Just my experience, YMMV.