New rifle recommendations

[wind gypsy]

200 rounds to break in a barrel??

Depends on what one means by breaking in. That’s a fair number people use to assume velocity has stabilized on a new barrel. I had one that sped up a fair bit after 300 rounds.

 

[CoMulies]

Depends on what one means by breaking in. That’s a fair number people use to assume velocity has stabilized on a new barrel. I had one that sped up a fair bit after 300 rounds.

Gotcha, by no means an expert so was just curious as I’ve usually seen around 50 rounds.

 

[wind gypsy]

Gotcha, by no means an expert so was just curious as I’ve usually seen around 50 rounds.

It's common for match shooters to want 150-200 rounds on a barrel before doing detailed load development or taking it to a serious match so they are more comfortable a barrel is stabilized.

A hunter needing 1 shot probably isn't going to have that 1 shot be the one that speeds up 60 FPS but a guy burning through 200 rounds on a 2 day match can get burned pretty easy when a barrel speeds up over that course of fire.

 

[huntnful]

My bigger magnums the throat is normally cracked about 100 rounds. That’s the “break in”. The cracked throat, which causes more bullet drag, aka higher pressure, and thus higher velocity.

6.5 PRC or smaller could easily be 200+ rounds to fully speed up (crack the throat) depending on powder.

 

[ssimo]

200 rounds to break in a barrel??

Yeah, someone says it takes a lot of rounds to really break in a barrel but actually i didn't mean that for me the only mechanical break in takes 200 rounds. After 100-200 rounds you usually get a little more velocity and you have the greater accuracy the rifle can deliver but, in this case, break in was not the best term, sorry, i am not a native english speaker. I meant, after you take a rifle out and you break in the barrel from a mechanical point of view, try some ammo, make a dope chart, get a feeling for it, make sure it to be reliable in cycling, in cold bore zero, fouled vs cleaned bore, you try to shoot it from different field positions.. yeah, 200 rounds is normal to get to know a rifle a bit

 

[huntnful]

What were your four 6.5 PRC’s and which one(s) were your standouts? I’m looking at that caliber for my next purchase as well.

A TS Customs 6.5 PRC is hard to beat.

 

[rrbailey]

A TS Customs 6.5 PRC is hard to beat.

Agreed! Just not sure it’s within my budget unfortunately. Any other recommendations? Thanks for taking the time to respond.

 

[huntnful]

Agreed! Just not sure it’s within my budget unfortunately. Any other recommendations? Thanks for taking the time to respond.

I would just get a factory tikka and put a trigger spring in it. Next best thing for sure.

 

[Mulyhuntr]

Tikka in 243 with 108 eldm at 2900-3000 gets my vote.

 

[wind gypsy]

Agreed! Just not sure it’s within my budget unfortunately. Any other recommendations? Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Sako S20 6.5 PRC for $1k is a slamming deal.
Tikka
Seekins PH2

None of the above should be limiting in any way at a fraction of the cost of a full custom.

 

[CoMulies]

Agreed! Just not sure it’s within my budget unfortunately. Any other recommendations? Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Tikka t3x roughtechs or check out the Basspro Tikka T3x D18. Same gun just different finish

Christensen Arms Mesa at $1150 piqued my interest as well

Bergara has a few chambered for 6.5 also. They’re on the heavier side but they’re tack drivers from everything I’ve read

 

[Article 4]

A lot of good recommendations here. Coming from a 30-06 can I assume you are shooting factory ammo? If you are and plan to continue with your new rifle, then I suggest running a highly popular caliber that you can find the right load that works optimally in your barrel at nearly any store you go to.

Agree with 7PRC, 300WM, 300 PRC, and I am going to throw 30 Nosler in there. It outperforms all of them.
I tend to stick with slight larger calibers that can throw big bullets as a hunting rifle. Yes, 6.5 CM will kill elk and so will a 243, but at longer distances, I want to throw the biggest bullet I can, as fast as I can. It is a huge benefit to the animal....all animals die when you hit them perfectly. Its when at 700 yards and you shoot and they take a step or two, you want a big bullet.

Shooting 200 rounds a year with a magnum is a lot. Bbl life is a relative term based on more than it just being a "barrel" Some last longer than others. I am a custom builder and this is what I tell customers. Narrow it down to the 3 or 4 best options, then pick one YOU WANT - then worry about the rest

 

[manitou1]

I replace 2-3 barrels a year. And all I do with my rifles is hunt and practice hunting (i.e. shooting). Same thing with my bow. I shoot 5-10 arrows just about every day I am home, and every time I go to the range, I am putting 2-300 rounds downrange.

That may be a lot for some, but that is pretty average for the folks I hang out with.

This... and a 28 Nosler barrel has a life expectancy of 600-800 rounds. Wouldn't last long enough for my use.

 

[manitou1]

Don't discount the .280ai.
With 168 gr VLDs or Accubond LR it is easily a 1000 yard elk cartridge, retaining the energy and speed needed to do the job. A faster twist barrel will handle 180s-190s easily.

Of course, steel or paper it is effective at further distances.

All this with less powder, less flash and less recoil than most all of the cartridges discussed above.

 

[bmart2622]

My bigger magnums the throat is normally cracked about 100 rounds. That’s the “break in”. The cracked throat, which causes more bullet drag, aka higher pressure, and thus higher velocity.

6.5 PRC or smaller could easily be 200+ rounds to fully speed up (crack the throat) depending on powder.

So more drag and more resistance in between barrel and bullet results in an increase in velocity?

 

[swavescatter]

Using bro science, I could imagine slight increases in pressure at the lands allows for a tiny bit more time for combustion and thus higher pressure/velocity once the bullet passes the tight spot.

Just a guess…

 

[bmart2622]

I wonder why you get an increase in speed when you shot a bullet with less bearing surface?

 

[CoMulies]

It is a huge benefit to the animal....all animals die when you hit them perfectly. Its when at 700 yards and you shoot and they take a step or two, you want a big bullet.

Some might argue this is why you probably shouldn’t shoot 700 yards on game.

 

[atmat]

Its when at 700 yards and you shoot and they take a step or two, you want a big bullet.

I can assure you that having a bullet <0.07” larger will not make up for a bad shot. Seriously, go measure 0.07”.

 

[huntnful]

So more drag and more resistance in between barrel and bullet results in an increase in velocity?

Yes. At the start of the rifling.

Using bro science, I could imagine slight increases in pressure at the lands allows for a tiny bit more time for combustion and thus higher pressure/velocity once the bullet passes the tight spot.

Just a guess…

Sounds like a good explanation to me

I wonder why you get an increase in speed when you shot a bullet with less bearing surface?

That’s a totally different bullet in general. Less bearing surface is less drag, so you can get it going faster before you see pressure. And it won’t go faster with the same charge weight as the longer bearing surface bullet generally. It’ll take more powder, but will eventually be able to be pushed faster.

But shooting the same bullet, with the same charge, you’ll see the velocity increase when the throat starts to crack.