New Rifle Build- Bullet and Caliber- Mono metal- Thoughts?

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DagOtto

DagOtto

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If it were me I’d get a 1:7 twist barrel for a
6 CM and load the 104 HHT. You should easily hit 3000-3100 with a shorter suppressed barrel.
I'm going to take my time with this one but if I had to pick tonight, I'd go with 6 CM and test Hammers, DRTs and LRX's for accuracy. Maybe also Controlled Chaos as that bullet has been incredibly accurate for me out of a 6.5 CM I just completed... then pick based on accuracy and Forms recommendations on best wound channel creators. I'm stoked you shared your velocities with the 6.5. Thanks
 

ljalberta

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6.5 Creed will do the trick without adding unnecessary recoil. I’m shooting an 18” 6.5CM at 2735 fps with the 125gr Cutting Edge Lazers. This carries 2000fps to 500 yards. I did not like the TSX or LRX bullets as they don’t typically fracture.

The CE will expand to lower velocities as well compared to the Barnes. My sample size is small with only a sheep and a bear taken at this point. The bear was at 415 yards and about 2100 fps and the bullet fractured and dropped the bear within 20ish yards.
 
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For what it costs to get a rifle rebarreled I would just sell the 06 and buy a new tikka 243
The 8 twist turns them into a different animal
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Only if your trying to shoot 175+ grain pills
The 150 eld-x fits beautifully in a tikka magazine
168 bergers and 160 tmk also magazine feed
All 3 carry upset velocity well beyond 800 yards asl
Much further in elevation
Depends how far you want to jump them. He was also talking monos which are longer for weight. My 145lrx 280ai load in a Tikka m695 (longer than a T3) is 3.4x” long.
 

WI-Carcosa

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Currently getting a build with unknown munitions for a 6.5 prc to shoot the 135g DRT. They are also checking the PVA 122g cayuga for me as I will test those as well on game once the build is finished. Im happy with the PRC, but the 6 creed will likely be my next rifle after that.


DRT load development thread in case it helps with your decision. There will hopefully be a necropsy thread for DRT bullets coming soon.
 

Shraggs

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My advice given your enthusiasm for what you learned and your limits and parameters:

Best, 6cm with DRT or LRX, or

Rebarrel to 35 whelen shoot one of the new petal shedding monos. I’d not try to go heavier for better BC just not happening with monos. 200 grain and push the speed for the best possible damage. A double base powder easily get you to 500 at 2200 fps around 400-500 yards.

I’m a convert to smaller caliber fragmenting bullets but have maintained one fudd set up. I’ve been underwhelmed with monos in past and if going to or had to I’d rather start with a larger caliber. 3 friends shoot whelen with 200 TTSX to 300 yard limits and wounds have been adequate and zero rodeos.

I’ve taken two large bucks with a 35 cal 200 hammers at 50 and 200 ish yards and found way better than a tsx and on par with other controlled expansion bullets like partion and accubonds. Both were significantly less tissue damage than my 223/77 tmk and similar and longer range.
 

SDHNTR

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124 Hammer. .260 rem.

I genuinely do not understand the over analyzing of bullets here. It’s mostly nonsense to me. Put bullets where they belong and animals die easily. It’s that simple. Shoot the bullet that is most accurate in your gun and allows you to place it where you want it most confidently. There’s not much more to it. All this chatter about minimum velocity only applies on the extremes. IMO, we spend too much time obsessing over those ballistic extremes which are unlikely to happen anyway, and far too little time studying and learning what matters…. Scouting, learning animal behavior, patterns and terrain in your area. Put the ballistic calculator and internet minutiae away and learn about your quarry. That’s what matters way more than bullet construction or cartridge choice.

This site also has an odd obsession with small caliber bullets and massive destruction. I don’t get it. Just to prove a point? I see so many pics here with the front half of an animal blown apart and bloodshot to the point of being unusable. Why? Just for the pics of the gore? Lame. I sure as hell don’t want that much meat loss and questionable politics aside, whether it’s truly bad or not, I don’t know and don’t care, I simply don’t want all that lead spray in my food either.

Give me a modest, but not excessive, wound channel that kills the animal cleanly and quickly, which doesn’t ruin half my meat and doesn’t put excessive lead in my food, any day over a grenade. That’s what Hammers, LRX, TTSX’s, and CX’s do out to any reasonable range. I’ve seen it literally several hundreds of times with monos. Or the same could be said about most any other hunting bullet too, for that matter. The endless questioning of effectiveness and the obsession over excessive bullet destruction on this site just baffles me. No thanks. Just hunt.
 

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Koda_

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Its normal for hunters to discuss "best" bullet or caliber, lots of choices out there and some are better than others for a given task
I dont get the obsession here over small caliber
223 though its not "the best" caliber for elk but thats another subject.
 

sndmn11

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I also have a bit of reloading data for 6.5creed and PRC with some mono bullets if you want an idea of starting velocity.

If you start a 85gr hammer at 3700fps, it might still be going alright at 500.
 

SDHNTR

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Its normal for hunters to discuss "best" bullet or caliber, lots of choices out there and some are better than others for a given task
I dont get the obsession here over small caliber
223 though its not "the best" caliber for elk but thats another subject.
IME, the best hunters do not discuss such things with that much regularity or passion. They don’t have to, they don’t need to. They have actual experience to lean on. It’s the wannabe “tactical operators” and internet cowboys who ask these questions over and over and obsess over such minor details.
 

Koda_

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IME, the best hunters do not discuss such things with that much regularity or passion. They don’t have to, they don’t need to. They have actual experience to lean on. It’s the wannabe “tactical operators” and internet cowboys who ask these questions over and over and obsess over such minor details.
This is a national forum open to the world, everyone has different experience levels and different opportunities to hunt and learn.
I cant judge someone for asking questions and trying to improve their gear choices. A good hunter that only needs his one rifle, also is experienced enough to offer guidance to others in selecting their caliber.
 

SDHNTR

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This is a national forum open to the world, everyone has different experience levels and different opportunities to hunt and learn.
I cant judge someone for asking questions and trying to improve their gear choices. A good hunter that only needs his one rifle, also is experienced enough to offer guidance to others in selecting their caliber.
You do make some very good points there.

Hopefully someone new understands my points too. I’m not trying to be a jerk, rather, just to bring some perspective back to this site. There are other things that matter in the field too. Don’t forget woodsmanship and knowing your game. Time spent learning game habits with your .270 in hand will result in far more punched tags than time spent studying 77gr TMKs (or mono speeds) on the internet.
 

Koda_

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You do make some very good points there.

Hopefully someone new understands my points too. I’m not trying to be a jerk, rather, just to bring some perspective back to this site. There are other things that matter in the field too. Don’t forget woodsmanship and knowing your game. Time spent learning game habits with your .270 in hand will result in far more punched tags than time spent studying 77gr TMKs (or mono speeds) on the internet.
Fully agree with your point about woodsmanship but its another subject. Agree with you on that whole 223 77TMK elk caliber nonsense thats just bad advice over there. I do think monos are performing incredibly well on game though and that is what the OP is inquiring about, but after his build is done it will come down to woodsmanship.... that time will come.
 
OP
DagOtto

DagOtto

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Currently getting a build with unknown munitions for a 6.5 prc to shoot the 135g DRT. They are also checking the PVA 122g cayuga for me as I will test those as well on game once the build is finished. Im happy with the PRC, but the 6 creed will likely be my next rifle after that.


DRT load development thread in case it helps with your decision. There will hopefully be a necropsy thread for DRT bullets coming soon.
Thanks for the load data for DRT. Wish we had a source for consistent and rigorous testing of these various bullets in gel to aid in knowing their performance at various velocities I guess we will just have to wait for the community to post necropsy results ! I hope to add my own very shortly.
 
OP
DagOtto

DagOtto

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Okay- follow up questions as I plan this build.

Quick review — I’ve got an old tikka t3 30-06 that I intend to rebuild. Goals are light backpacking build, 600 yard max range, mono metal. It will be used with a suppressor. Likely my 5.5” 7.8 oz banish backcountry.

Per the input from you all I’m now planning on building this in 6 Creedmore and shooting 95 grain DRTs or 115 grain Hammers or possibly Controller Chaos if the gun hates the DRTs.

So- folllow up questions— Id like to
Use a steel barrel cause this will also be my practice rifle for the foreseable future.

1-What twist do ya’ll think I should go with? the standard 7.5 ?

2-any concerns with 18” barrel? Do I need to
Plan on using faster burning powders with that barrel or is it a non issue?

3- using the suppressor above what is the lightest profile barrel I should use? I understand there is an issue with threading a suppressor onto to thin of a muzzle but don’t know the details or options out there.

4- I see a company called x-caliber making stainless tikka pre-fits. Anybody have experience with them?

Thanks!
 

SloppyJ

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Reading this whole thread, I was thinking 6 creedmoor for sure. It meets you're requirements and you can get some damn good velocity if you step on it. Get it throated with your preferred bullet at the neck/shoulder junction and fill it full of n555.

I don't have a bunch of experience with monos because I don't use them. However sending some lighterweight monos out of my 6 creed has crossed my mind just to see what they do. I might do that next year. I have the 108eldm, 108 Berger elite hunter, and a 95gr BT to get data on this year.

You can get factory ammo, brass is super easy to come by, and it just makes the most sense to me.
 
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