New hunting arrow setup suggestions, what are y’all shooting?

[IrkedCitizen]

If you can some how manage to find some, Easton ACC 3-71 arrows are tough to beat. It's still my go-to arrow after all these years. I have two dozen left and after that I'll be looking for something else. Probably the .204" variety of TKO with a HIT insert.

 

[fulldraw71]

I didn’t take the time to read every page so pardon me if this has already been mentioned. Ask most older archers, myself included, how much foc we ran when we shot aluminum. There may have been people building heavy arrows. That I don’t know. But I do know most people I knew and myself just screwed a 75-125 gr broadhead on and went and killed ****. I have some Easton XX75s that I built and was shooting most of 2023 and with the 100 gr tips I was shooting they had about 7.5% foc. I myself tended to ignore what I should have already knew from my experiences years ago and asked the question on AT. I got some good responses like what I just said here. “We never even knew what foc was back in the 80s and 90s and we all killed stuff”. It’s true. Someone said earlier in this thread “to let foc fall where it may” I couldn’t agree more. I run 6.5 carbon arrows with the stock aluminum inserts, 3-4 fletches on a 4.5” wrap and standard nocks.

Now that I’ve gotten this out of the way I’d like to ask about total arrow weight myself. I came here to search this topic up and found this thread. I’m going to be buying new broadheads this summer and I’m on the fence whether to get 100 gr or 125. The difference would be a total arrow weight of 440 or 465. Should I go for the heavier shaft or is 25 grains anything to consider when it comes to a hunting arrow?

 

[Kifaru_Kinda_Guy]

Currently running the black eagle rampage 300 spine .204 with the stainless steel insert. Weight is around 465 with a 125 grain broad head. Draw is 70lbs at 28.5 inches. They have been pretty accurate and durable. The half out is remotely tough but titanium is the way to go to make it bullet proof. The arrows spun pretty well out the box 9-12 straight. Cut arrows from both ends that spun funny and they ran true. Just don't shoot one into a horse mat you will pull the insert out if its hot melted ask me how I know lol.

 

[Bigborealaska]

Use Archer's Advantage or a similar application to play around with different arrows and configurations. You may find out that the numbers you're wanting aren't quite possible. I haven't built any arrows as short as you will need, but 15% FOC under 475 gr seems like a tough task, especially with a lighted nock.

And chrono your bow and get actual numbers to plug into your arrow build software. They are not 100% accurate. My bow, new string chronod at 282 and the app shows it over 290 which changes spine calculations and other things. Don't just plug numbers in find out what they truly are.

 

[nphunter]

And chrono your bow and get actual numbers to plug into your arrow build software. They are not 100% accurate. My bow, new string chronod at 282 and the app shows it over 290 which changes spine calculations and other things. Don't just plug numbers in find out what they truly are.

This is great advice, very few bows hit their advertised IBO, especially once you start getting away from the top of the cam.

 

[Jon_G]

I'm going back to American Made Easton AXIS Match Grade with Iron Will components for this coming season. Tired of trying to get HIT inserts to stick in RIP TKO shafts and I do not like any of the half-serts that I've tested.

NC

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I assume you tried using a wire brush on the inside to try to create some friction on the carbon? I was just about to buy some hit inserts for my victory arrows. I started doing some research and came across this. I don't want to have issues like this.

My problem with axis arrows is they put my setup like 42 grains higher than I'd like. I can skip the match grade collars that come with them and only gain like 25 more grains but that's still more than I'd like. But if I'm gonna skip on the collars then why even bother buying those arrows. That's why I want to stick the rip tkos and take advantage of the lighter arrow to get to the weight I'm after.

 

[ncavi8tor]

I assume you tried using a wire brush on the inside to try to create some friction on the carbon? I was just about to buy some hit inserts for my victory arrows. I started doing some research and came across this. I don't want to have issues like this.

My problem with axis arrows is they put my setup like 42 grains higher than I'd like. I can skip the match grade collars that come with them and only gain like 25 more grains but that's still more than I'd like. But if I'm gonna skip on the collars then why even bother buying those arrows. That's why I want to stick the rip tkos and take advantage of the lighter arrow to get to the weight I'm after.

Yes! I used a bore brush on the inside of the shafts, sandpaper on the HIT inserts, and cleaned everything thoroughly with acetone. I've tried Easton epoxy, JB Weld 24 hour epoxy, and Gorilla 24 hour epoxy. They eventually became loose and started to pull out. It's not my prep!! I've been doing this a long time!! The only thing I didn't try that was recommended was golf club epoxy. Might be worth a try if you're committed to using the HIT inserts. I am convinced that there is something in the chemistry with those shafts that inhibits the bond with HIT inserts. Or maybe the inside dimensions leave too much of a gap. I came up with a build using Iron Will components and Axis Match Grade shafts that will give me a very close final arrow weight as the TKOs, but not quite as high of a FOC. I'm really not concerned with FOC as long as it is >=10%. Good luck!

NC

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Jon_G]

Yes! I used a bore brush on the inside of the shafts, sandpaper on the HIT inserts, and cleaned everything thoroughly with acetone. I've tried Easton epoxy, JB Weld 24 hour epoxy, and Gorilla 24 hour epoxy. They eventually became loose and started to pull out. It's not my prep!! I've been doing this a long time!! The only thing I didn't try that was recommended was golf club epoxy. Might be worth a try if you're committed to using the HIT inserts. I am convinced that there is something in the chemistry with those shafts that inhibits the bond with HIT inserts. Or maybe the inside dimensions leave too much of a gap. I came up with a build using Iron Will components and Axis Match Grade shafts that will give me a very close final arrow weight as the TKOs, but not quite as high of a FOC. I'm really not concerned with FOC as long as it is >=10%. Good luck!

NC

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. I won't try it then lol. I know there are some people that have had success but have also read more than a few people saying these had issues. I have yet to read someone saying they have that issue with hit inserts when paired with axis arrows though.

I am also not concerned with FOC as long as it ranges from 10 to under 15. I don't want an arrow over 450. I've played around with the numbers with 300 spine and can't get to under 450 grains with axis arrows unless I spend extra on 10 grain collars and remove the wraps but I like the wraps. In my opinion re-fletching is much easier with wraps on.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I don't want an arrow over 450. I've played around with the numbers with 300 spine and can't get to under 450 grains with axis arrows unless I spend extra on 10 grain collars and remove the wraps but I like the wraps. In my opinion re-fletching is much easier with wraps on.

Here are some other options to consider if you're looking for a 5mm shaft that's lighter than an Axis:

 

[big44a4]

Bob Smith IC-2000 glue for inserts. I had some issues with Easton epoxy on 2 arrows out of 2 dozen I used that on. No issues with bob smiths but there is some room for user error not as friendly as a slow setting epoxy.

 

[Butcher8]

For reference. I'm running victory rip tko 300. 28" 3 max stealth vanes, no wrap. 100gr point, 75gr half outsert, 460ish total weight. I'd run the rip over the vap for the component durability.

 

[Jon_G]

Here are some other options to consider if you're looking for a 5mm shaft that's lighter than an Axis:
View attachment 713821

Thank you mighty. I will give all of these a hard look.

 

[butcherboy]

Easton fmj 340 cut to 27”. 50 gr brass hit, 100 grain exodus broadhead. Blazer vanes but might change to super saber mini. TAW is 482 grains. I also shoot Easton axis 340’s exactly the same set up if/when I want a faster arrow. TAW for axis is 433.5. I prefer the fmj’s and have no idea what the foc is or what the speed of the arrow is.

 

[Jon_G]

Easton fmj 340 cut to 27”. 50 gr brass hit, 100 grain exodus broadhead. Blazer vanes but might change to super saber mini. TAW is 482 grains. I also shoot Easton axis 340’s exactly the same set up if/when I want a faster arrow. TAW for axis is 433.5. I prefer the fmj’s and have no idea what the foc is or what the speed of the arrow is.

Whats your draw weight?

 

[MIhunter31]

Gold Tip Airstrike 29.5” CTC, 75gr half-out, collar at each end, factory gold tip nocks, 4” bohning wraps, 3 fletch blazers right offset. 100gr broadhead

 

[butcherboy]

Whats your draw weight?

I’m shooting 68#. I have always shot 70-75 but went down a few years ago. Next bow I will go back up to 70#. I changed limbs on my current bow down to 65# limbs from 70# limbs. Bow is 12 years old now. I’m sure the newer models 70# feels like 60#.