New cook stove on the market

@mtnbound It’s all high-temp silicone on our pot handles and titanium lid, so it can withstand a decent amount of heat. I’ve never personally tested it on an open fire, but I feel like if you positioned the pot on coals on the outside of the fire, you might be okay as long as there’s no direct flame or coals hitting the silicone.

But again, I’ve never thrown it in an open fire to see what happens. I’ll probably have to add that to my testing list.
 
@mtnbound It’s all high-temp silicone on our pot handles and titanium lid, so it can withstand a decent amount of heat. I’ve never personally tested it on an open fire, but I feel like if you positioned the pot on coals on the outside of the fire, you might be okay as long as there’s no direct flame or coals hitting the silicone.

But again, I’ve never thrown it in an open fire to see what happens. I’ll probably have to add that to my testing list.

Setting a pot on top of coals smothers them and kills the heat. Pots usually need to be set next to or on top of flames to effectively cook. Open flames will inevitably lick the silicone and burn them up. Totally usable pot without the lid, so it's not like a jetboil with plastic and a sleeve that burns. Probably a little late for a major design change, so a fire proof lid maybe a consideration for a next gen improvement. Either way, looks like a pretty solid system. Best of luck!
 
@mtnbound It’s all high-temp silicone on our pot handles and titanium lid, so it can withstand a decent amount of heat. I’ve never personally tested it on an open fire, but I feel like if you positioned the pot on coals on the outside of the fire, you might be okay as long as there’s no direct flame or coals hitting the silicone.

But again, I’ve never thrown it in an open fire to see what happens. I’ll probably have to add that to my testing list.

Thanks, if I did it I would position it like you’re saying and fully understand that it’s not really designed for that purpose.
 
Setting a pot on top of coals smothers them and kills the heat. Pots usually need to be set next to or on top of flames to effectively cook. Open flames will inevitably lick the silicone and burn them up. Totally usable pot without the lid, so it's not like a jetboil with plastic and a sleeve that burns. Probably a little late for a major design change, so a fire proof lid maybe a consideration for a next gen improvement. Either way, looks like a pretty solid system. Best of luck!

The coals do burn up but I don’t think I have ever seen them smother out. I do this quite often when using a Dutch oven and it works out. It’s better with charcoal briquettes but wood coals do work in a pinch.
 
To be fair, this cook system and a dutch oven are very different ways to cook. Dutch oven is cast iron and traveling light is not in consideration if a dutch oven is part of the hunting camp repertoire or if charcoal briquettes are part of the conversation as being ideal.

Makes sense to position the handle away from the direct heat, I don't know that I'd chance putting something other than metal in a position that melting or damage would be the possibility. With that, folks considering this system are most likely not setting a sub 1 L titanium pot on top coals to cook or to warm something up when the stove that comes with the pot will do it in a couple minutes.

Lol, less distraction of keeping track of a pot in the fire and enjoy the fire while the stove does it work.
 
The coals do burn up but I don’t think I have ever seen them smother out. I do this quite often when using a Dutch oven and it works out. It’s better with charcoal briquettes but wood coals do work in a pinch.
True, it works out well for dutch ovens, but those are made of thick cast iron which absorb and hold on to heat very effectively. The coals directly under the pot will get smothered from lack of oxygen and cool off, but the heat is transferred to the pot and that residual heat will cook the food. Usually dutch ovens benefit from radiant heat from the coals surrounding or on top of the pot. They're also easy to overheat over flames and will burn food without enough liquid, so they need to be suspended at an adequate height over the flames.

I find getting water to boiling temps require flames.
 
Agree with the last line in the above post from experience.

With a bed of coals hot enough to boil water, I'm pretty desperate to boil water. And I would have had plenty of time to build the fire and let it burn down to have said bed of coals in the first place. So it may not be necessity or desperation after all. However, if yes, at that point I don't care if my handles have silicone or not.

Over the years I've gone from the camp of roughing it using the fire as much as possible to the point that an extra fuel canister to assure there's no need for a fire to do boiling or cooking, makes life so much easier. There's always a need for a fire in camp, to lift spirits at the end of a long day and provide warmth before diving into sleeping bags on well below freezing nights in the Colorado High country.

In any case, this is a cool system for those looking at a one-stop shop solution and looking forward to seeing how it turns out a couple years down the road.
 
Makes sense to position the handle away from the direct heat, I don't know that I'd chance putting something other than metal in a position that melting or damage would be the possibility. With that, folks considering this system are most likely not setting a sub 1 L titanium pot on top coals to cook or to warm something up when the stove that comes with the pot will do it in a couple minutes.

Lol, less distraction of keeping track of a pot in the fire and enjoy the fire while the stove does it work.

Depends on the situation. If I'm in a hurry and need to boil water quickly, I'll use my stove. Coffee, tea, instant meals, breakfast/lunch. Boiling times is usually under 2-3 minutes with a stove. It's faster and easier to set up and break down and get on with the day. I sometimes cold soak my food as well.

Dinner at camp is usually a slower time to wind down, and I might choose to use different ingredients or try to save fuel. If I use my fire box, it takes a couple minutes to set up, gather a handful of twigs, light the fire and tend to it because it requires constant attention. Boiling water usually takes about 5-6 minutes. I enjoy it because even a small fire can be a big morale boost. I also boil to sanitize water whenever I can avoid using my steripen or filter so they last longer.

A full camp fire is a lot of work, but definitely makes the most memorable meals. I'm kind of a diva with camp fires, so I'll take the time to cut down a dead tree and split the wood to make a hot fire that burns down to really nice coals and clean flames. Steaks, stews, fire roasted veggies, pasta, hot sake, bread, rice, curry, and whatever else. Way better with an open fire for a constant/dispersed heat source, and 2 pots are usually required for a lot of my meals. An extra pan or plate adds a lot of capability for better meals.

On a hunting trip, I rarely do a campfire for the purpose of cooking until I tag out. Cooking and eating isn't the intended activity, and it spreads a lot of odor. Going out with buddies on a weekend or bushcraft/scouting trip, I'll bring plenty of fresh food to enjoy at camp because that's the intended activity and usually cheaper.

A 110 canister typically lasts me 3-4 days. I don't think jetboils are actually much more efficient consumption-wise, just marginally faster at full blast. I can stretch one of those cans to about a week with the occasional fire, or not use my fuel at all if I feel like it. I'd argue that good firecraft and open flame cooking is better woodsmanship, and relying on modern ultralight gear and packaged food is glamping (no offense, I'm a glamper too).
 
However, if yes, at that point I don't care if my handles have silicone or not.

I've only had the silicone burn up once in the 15 years I've had my cook kit. Luckily the handles could be removed, so I cut off the burnt ones and used heat shrink tubing to replace it.
 
Great posts, fellas. Appears there are many similarities, yet differences in the nuances of keeping camp when it comes to cooking.

I concur heartily a heat exchanger pot is a game changer. As well, advertised boil times are with run with the stone at maximum which is very inefficient. For a stove that can be fine tuned lower than full throttle and has simmering capability that is legitimate, throttling back and taking a few more minutes stretches fuel way out. Soto windmaster which I use and has been mentioned many times, weighs 3 oz and 1 L Aluminum heat exchange pot weighs 6 oz. How much bulk and weight is too much?

Hopefully the new cook system being discussed turns into a successful venture for the brothers Neville.
 
You might think that but the heat exchanger pots are definitely more efficient especially when wind enters the picture compared to a bare pot and burner. Some combos more so than others. You should actually try it sometime.

I've used jetboils that my buddies have carried in. Don't get me wrong, I think they're nice for boiling water. But I think they're too bulky and heavy for what you get. I think the burner is significantly more efficient than a pocket rocket 2 or brs, but compared to the soto windmaster, the difference is very marginal. The regulator, concave burner head, and low legs make a massive difference. Insulating my pots on the burner with a homemade koozy seems to help a lot as well.
 
How is the igniter? Besides bulky/weight. My biggest complaint with my JB is their trashy igniter.

Im going to be looking into a new cook system for this coming year due to that annoyance alone.
 
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