New bowhunter: arrow, and broadhead question

[caddis75]

Hey everyone. I have a Bear Species, that I bought here. It came with four arrows: two maxima hunter 350s (32.5 in) and two radial x weave hunter 400s (31.5 in). I'm looking to pick up a few more arrows and a few broadheads. My bow is set at 60 lbs and about 31.5 inches DL. Does 350 vs 400 matter? Is there another brand of arrow I should try? Final question. For my first broadhead, for deer, is there a brand and grain weight you recommend? Thanks for your advice.

 

[wayoh22]

Easton Axis is the arrow I'd recommend. You'd be at a 300 or 260 spine with that draw length. Broadheads can be whatever you want them to be as long as they tune correctly. 100g broadhead is pretty common.

 

[caddis75]

Easton Axis is the arrow I'd recommend. You'd be at a 300 or 260 spine with that draw length. Broadheads can be whatever you want them to be as long as they tune correctly. 100g broadhead is pretty common.

Thank you.

 

[D*Train]

Well I shoot a carbon defiant 30 @ 69#s with a 29.5" draw length. My Easton axis match grade 300s are cut at 30 inches cut end to cut end. Front end has 50 grain brass insert and 100 grain Broadhead, if your bow isn't tuned to shoot bullet holes thru paper, you should shoot a mechanical head as it won't steer the arrows off the impact point of your field tips. The back end of my arrow has a vinyl wrap with a 4 fletch of AAE max stealth vanes and a lumenok for the nock.
My total arrow is around 530 grains and it flys great. You might was to go with the regular hit aluminum inserts as they are 16 grains to the 50 of the brass. Also I would use smaller vanes and maybe only 3 fletch for a mechanical. This would build an arrow around 490 grains which would be better for 60#s to keep your speed up.

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[Zac]

Good advice above. I also would shoot an Easton Axis 300 with 50 grains of brass and 100 or 125 grain head. Hard to even achieve 10 percent FOC with the standard HIT. Not a huge deal but you don't want to drop below 10. Those Maxima are mostly thin walled garbage.

 

[caddis75]

Well I shoot a carbon defiant 30 @ 69#s with a 29.5" draw length. My Easton axis match grade 300s are cut at 30 inches cut end to cut end. Front end has 50 grain brass insert and 100 grain Broadhead, if your bow isn't tuned to shoot bullet holes thru paper, you should shoot a mechanical head as it won't steer the arrows off the impact point of your field tips. The back end of my arrow has a vinyl wrap with a 4 fletch of AAE max stealth vanes and a lumenok for the nock.
My total arrow is around 530 grains and it flys great. You might was to go with the regular hit aluminum inserts as they are 16 grains to the 50 of the brass. Also I would use smaller vanes and maybe only 3 fletch for a mechanical. This would build an arrow around 490 grains which would be better for 60#s to keep your speed up.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Thank you.

 

[caddis75]

Good advice above. I also would shoot an Easton Axis 300 with 50 grains of brass and 100 or 125 grain head. Hard to even achieve 10 percent FOC with the standard HIT. Not a huge deal but you don't want to drop below 10. Those Maxima are mostly thin walled garbage.

Thank you

 

[caddis75]

Thanks all. I have some things to learn. A quick search of Easton 300's seems like they are out. I've never bought arrows before, so it seems like you can buy the shaft or already fletched. Lancaster Archery is about an hour away, and Weaver's archery is near where I hunt. I'll give them a call.

Right now, I'm just trying to get to the range and I stay until I shoot 100 times. I won't leave until I have a 1-inch group. I am getting a pretty consistent draw, but I want to work on my hold time, I have trouble holding on zero, my peep tends to drift a little.

Note- I'm not going to rush this, if I don't get everything squared away, I'm not going to hunt this season, as I want to be as confident as possible I'll make a clean kill.

 

[MattB]

Man, 31.5" DL, are you about 6'7"?

 

[wayoh22]

Right now, I'm just trying to get to the range and I stay until I shoot 100 times. I won't leave until I have a 1-inch group. I am getting a pretty consistent draw, but I want to work on my hold time, I have trouble holding on zero, my peep tends to drift a little.

Love the determination but you're not going to have a 1in group within a 100 shots. That's just unrealistic. This isn't something you just pick up and get the first time. Takes days, months, even years to become proficient depending on your goals. Don't rush it and enjoy the process.

 

[jmez]

You shoot consistent 1 inch groups at 20 yards you will be amongst the best shooters in the world. Keep expectations realistic.

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[caddis75]

Love the determination but you're not going to have a 1in group within a 100 shots. That's just unrealistic. This isn't something you just pick up and get the first time. Takes days, months, even years to become proficient depending on your goals. Don't rush it and enjoy the process.

I inch -ish. Close I meant. Just three decent shots. I can only go 1-2 a week, so I don't mind spending some time there. All good points. To me this is like fly fishing, it took me years to get decent, and more years to be good. I'm not under any pretense that this will be any easier.

 

[caddis75]

Man, 31.5" DL, are you about 6'7"?

No, 6'2" long arms. It's what they set it at.

 

[caddis75]

You shoot consistent 1 inch groups at 20 yards you will be amongst the best shooters in the world. Keep expectations realistic.

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I inch was the wrong thing to say. Close groups are all I am trying for, for now.

 

[OR Archer]

I would first double check your bow specs. That particular model of bow maxed out at 30” in draw. So before you purchase arrows get the correct specs as to what your bow is actually set at then start researching arrows.

 

[Josiah Bower]

Lots of great info on here already. I would definitely go with a 5mm (standard diameter) Easton Axis for your first arrow. Based on your draw weight and draw length, I would go with a 260 spine, possibly 300, with a 50 grain brass HIT insert.

Also, I’m not familiar with your bow model, but as others have said, be sure your draw length is correct before you cut a new set of arrows. You can do it yourself-video link below. I like to cut my arrows so they are exactly my draw length or slightly longer from the front end of the shaft or footer to the throat of the nock (where the string sits). That way, the tip of my arrow is a little farther out, eliminating any clearance issues between my broadheads an my riser/hand.

Even better than a brass HIT insert would be an insert/footer combination, as the footer forms a metal sleeve over the front end of the shaft that protects from splintering upon impact. Most stainless steel footers will be in the 100 grain range, but if you go full aluminum or titanium you can get a similar weight to a brass HIT insert.

Ethics Archery makes an excellent system—I use their aluminum insert with SS footer, which weighs 110 grains for my 4mm Easton A/C Injexion arrows (picture below). I’ve heard good things about the Elk River custom footers too. Iron Will also makes an excellent HIT/footer system and has a titanium option, giving you high strength but a more normal weight compared to a brass HIT insert. Iron Will is probably the best option for 5mm arrows, but they are pretty pricey.

That being said, footers aren’t necessary and require a bit more work and money, but I think they are worth it in the long run. I’ll post the link to a video showing how they perform compared to regular inserts below.

Nock On Archery has match grade (+/- 0.001” straighness) Axis 260’s in stock right now and 300’s should be in stock soon. It’s a pretty good deal for a dozen shafts with brass inserts and glue included. You’d have to get them fletched though.

John Dudley, the owner of Nock On, is a retired Pro archer who was on the US Archery team for several years and is the best source of information about the technical side of archery I have found yet. Check out his YouTube channel and his podcast if you’re interested in becoming a better archer (especially the School of Nock on YouTube) or possibly building your own arrows, working on your bow yourself, or tuning your bow to your arrows. Most of the imports things I have learned about archery have been from him, and it’s all free.

I know it’s a long shot, but if you’re in the Bozeman, MT area I would be happy to help you build and fletch some arrows. Hope this info helps.

Video on how to measure bow’s actual draw length:

Nock On match grade Axis shafts:

Nock On Axis Pro Series Bare Shafts (12ct)

The Ultimate Match-Grade Arrows From John Dudley I’ve spent decades perfecting my arrow setup, and these Nock On Axis Pro Series shafts are the culmination of that journey. These are the arrows I grab when heading into the backcountry or stepping up to the competition line. These 5mm arrows...

shop.nockonarchery.com

Video showing difference between arrows with /without footers upon deflection:

Ethics Archery insert/footer system:

Adjustable Outsert System, .204, .281 Sleeve

Threads are 8/32 Requires a .310 Field point The sleeve is required to use the post Some sanding or gluing may be required for a proper fit **Post Only/Sleeve Only options are for replacements only. The outsert post cannot be used without a sleeve, and the outsert sleeve is not interchangeable...

ethicsarchery.com

Iron Will Outfiitters HIT/footer system:

Iron Will Reinforced HIT System — Iron Will Outfitters

You already use the toughest broadheads. Now, get the most out of them by reinforcing the end of your arrow with the Iron Will Arrow Reinforcement System. Comprised of our specially engineered HIT Inserts and hard-hitting Impact Collars, the system ensures the end of your arrow stands firm on impact

www.ironwilloutfitters.com

 

[caddis75]

I would first double-check your bow specs. That particular model of bow maxed out at 30” in draw. So before you purchase arrows get the correct specs as to what your bow is actually set at then start researching arrows.

I did. I took it to a recommended shop and they said while the spec said 30, it was actually 32", they shortened it for me about a "half-inch" But, if you look at the spec sheet from Bear, it says my DL should be 29, so I don't know is what I am saying.

 

[caddis75]

Lots of great info on here already. I would definitely go with a 5mm (standard diameter) Easton Axis for your first arrow. Based on your draw weight and draw length, I would go with a 260 spine, possibly 300, with a 50 grain brass HIT insert.

Also, I’m not familiar with your bow model, but as others have said, be sure your draw length is correct before you cut a new set of arrows. You can do it yourself-video link below. I like to cut my arrows so they are exactly my draw length or slightly longer from the front end of the shaft or footer to the throat of the nock (where the string sits). That way, the tip of my arrow is a little farther out, eliminating any clearance issues between my broadheads an my riser/hand.

Even better than a brass HIT insert would be an insert/footer combination, as the footer forms a metal sleeve over the front end of the shaft that protects from splintering upon impact. Most stainless steel footers will be in the 100 grain range, but if you go full aluminum or titanium you can get a similar weight to a brass HIT insert.

Ethics Archery makes an excellent system—I use their aluminum insert with SS footer, which weighs 110 grains for my 4mm Easton A/C Injexion arrows (picture below). I’ve heard good things about the Elk River custom footers too. Iron Will also makes an excellent HIT/footer system and has a titanium option, giving you high strength but a more normal weight compared to a brass HIT insert. Iron Will is probably the best option for 5mm arrows, but they are pretty pricey.

That being said, footers aren’t necessary and require a bit more work and money, but I think they are worth it in the long run. I’ll post the link to a video showing how they perform compared to regular inserts below.

Nock On Archery has match grade (+/- 0.001” straighness) Axis 260’s in stock right now and 300’s should be in stock soon. It’s a pretty good deal for a dozen shafts with brass inserts and glue included. You’d have to get them fletched though.

John Dudley, the owner of Nock On, is a retired Pro archer who was on the US Archery team for several years and is the best source of information about the technical side of archery I have found yet. Check out his YouTube channel and his podcast if you’re interested in becoming a better archer (especially the School of Nock on YouTube) or possibly building your own arrows, working on your bow yourself, or tuning your bow to your arrows. Most of the imports things I have learned about archery have been from him, and it’s all free.

I know it’s a long shot, but if you’re in the Bozeman, MT area I would be happy to help you build and fletch some arrows. Hope this info helps.

Video on how to measure bow’s actual draw length:

Nock On match grade Axis shafts:

Nock On Axis Pro Series Bare Shafts (12ct)

The Ultimate Match-Grade Arrows From John Dudley I’ve spent decades perfecting my arrow setup, and these Nock On Axis Pro Series shafts are the culmination of that journey. These are the arrows I grab when heading into the backcountry or stepping up to the competition line. These 5mm arrows...

shop.nockonarchery.com

Video showing difference between arrows with /without footers upon deflection:

Ethics Archery insert/footer system:

Adjustable Outsert System, .204, .281 Sleeve

Threads are 8/32 Requires a .310 Field point The sleeve is required to use the post Some sanding or gluing may be required for a proper fit **Post Only/Sleeve Only options are for replacements only. The outsert post cannot be used without a sleeve, and the outsert sleeve is not interchangeable...

ethicsarchery.com

Iron Will Outfiitters HIT/footer system:

Iron Will Reinforced HIT System — Iron Will Outfitters

You already use the toughest broadheads. Now, get the most out of them by reinforcing the end of your arrow with the Iron Will Arrow Reinforcement System. Comprised of our specially engineered HIT Inserts and hard-hitting Impact Collars, the system ensures the end of your arrow stands firm on impact

www.ironwilloutfitters.com

Josiah,

Thank you for the detailed reply. I am an east coaster, Philly, but thank you for the offer!

 

[nettereo16]

I did. I took it to a recommended shop and they said while the spec said 30, it was actually 32", they shortened it for me about a "half-inch" But, if you look at the spec sheet from Bear, it says my DL should be 29, so I don't know is what I am saying.

It sounds like something is off here. Someone else I'm sure can give advice on what it could be.

The other info given above has been on the money. Easton Axis is a good arrow. The number rating is the spine, or stiffness, of the arrow. It's important to get this right based on your actual draw length and weight. Once you know your exact specs a number of us can run it in the software to figure out exactly what you need.

Arrows are generally cut to length from a shop to fit your draw length and when you cut an arrow shorter it gets stiffer so it's important you purchase the correct spine rating for the length of arrow. In addition, the weight of the head and insert play a factor in spine (more weight makes the arrow flex more). The recommendations for having heavier inserts/points are valid, especially with the Axis which is a relatively heavy shaft. This will give you more weight front-of-center of the arrow and better performance.

Let us know when you are able to figure out your specs and I'm sure others can help.

I'd also recommend instead of shooting to exhaustion before leaving the range, if it's possible to shoot safely at home even in the basement at 10 feet, the more often you shoot the more it will help your release and archery muscles. You'll rapidly improve through this repetition.

 

[caddis75]

It sounds like something is off here. Someone else I'm sure can give advice on what it could be.

The other info given above has been on the money. Easton Axis is a good arrow. The number rating is the spine, or stiffness, of the arrow. It's important to get this right based on your actual draw length and weight. Once you know your exact specs a number of us can run it in the software to figure out exactly what you need.

Arrows are generally cut to length from a shop to fit your draw length and when you cut an arrow shorter it gets stiffer so it's important you purchase the correct spine rating for the length of arrow. In addition, the weight of the head and insert play a factor in spine (more weight makes the arrow flex more). The recommendations for having heavier inserts/points are valid, especially with the Axis which is a relatively heavy shaft. This will give you more weight front-of-center of the arrow and better performance.

Let us know when you are able to figure out your specs and I'm sure others can help.

I'd also recommend instead of shooting to exhaustion before leaving the range, if it's possible to shoot safely at home even in the basement at 10 feet, the more often you shoot the more it will help your release and archery muscles. You'll rapidly improve through this repetition.

Thanks. I am going to take it to a different shop Friday to figure out the specs on it. I can't figure out by code if I can shoot outside. I appreciate all of your advice and I'm sorry about the confusion. I'm going to call the township this week to figure out if I am allowed. If I shoot in the basement, what would be a cheap target to start with?