New Binoculars, spotting scope, or both...

[Jake Larsen]

So it’s basically a top of the line range finder with mediocre glass

Seems like the only one with good glass and a good range finder is Vector X. I just don’t think that’s an option. Just way too many CS and QC horror stories for such an expensive product.

I took a second look at the NL Range but the premium for such a poorly integrated ranging unit also seems meh.

I’m sorry I just realized I misread your original question. I was referring to the Sig Zulu image stabilizing binos. Those definitely have a place in the elite glass discussion, not because of the clarity or light transmission, but because they can basically give you “off a tripod” type stability while hand holding.

However my original comment still stands in reference to the Kilo lineup. Different world of clarity/light transmission compared to Swaro


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I've been much more efficient the last 4 years going with range finding binos in my bino harness and 15 power top tier binos on a tripod. This is how I hunt for 90+% of my hunts and don't see that changing anytime soon.

I did make an expensive switch to the Revic BLR10B's for the bino harness and 14 NL Pures for the top of my backpack for tripod glassing/animal assessment. Looking forward to learning more about that combo this Winter.

 

[iflyskyhigh]

I will. I guess I meant no vortex in the sense of just a straight bino.

 

[iflyskyhigh]

I've been much more efficient the last 4 years going with range finding binos in my bino harness and 15 power top tier binos on a tripod. This is how I hunt for 90+% of my hunts and don't see that changing anytime soon.

I did make an expensive switch to the Revic BLR10B's for the bino harness and 14 NL Pures for the top of my backpack for tripod glassing/animal assessment. Looking forward to learning more about that combo this Winter.

So no spotting scope at all?

 

[iflyskyhigh]

Maybe Vortex will send me a spotting scope, which would be good enough for the purposes I need a spotting scope for. And then the move would be some type of “decent” lower power ranging bino with the 14 NL’s. (If I can find them anywhere)

 

[iflyskyhigh]

I’m sorry I just realized I misread your original question. I was referring to the Sig Zulu image stabilizing binos. Those definitely have a place in the elite glass discussion, not because of the clarity or light transmission, but because they can basically give you “off a tripod” type stability while hand holding.

However my original comment still stands in reference to the Kilo lineup. Different world of clarity/light transmission compared to Swaro


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haven’t seen the sig Zulu. Have to look them up. When you mentioned stability I didn’t realize the Sig Kilo’s did that. But you meant the Zulu not the Kilo got it.

 

[iflyskyhigh]

It’s why I went with the Sig 6k in 8x32 cause does not make sense carrying a xtra weight of marginal glass.

Take a look at the Vortex Fury. IMO it was the best glass in a good rangefinder. I know you said no Vortex, but it’s a unique piece.

How’s the glass in the Sig 6K? 1-10? 10 Being Swarovski. Does it have the Blue of the original Kilo 10K? How’s the range finder in real world use?

 

[Jake Larsen]

Haven’t seen the sig Zulu. Have to look them up. When you mentioned stability I didn’t realize the Sig Kilo’s did that. But you meant the Zulu not the Kilo got it.

Yes the Zulu has image stabilizing. It’s pretty wild. I’m guessing all the top brands are scrambling to get in front of that technology. It’s pretty impressive. That being said, it seems like the electronic add-ons significantly reduce glass clarity/quality, as seen on the Swaro EL Range line. The Range version is significantly lower glass quality than the non-range version.

I doubt we’ll see an NL Pure image stabilizing bino that doesn’t give up significant quality, at least not anytime soon.

This is a bit tangential to your original discussion. I went down this same rabbit hole several years ago. The first thing you need to decide is if you’re willing to give up significant glass quality in order to have a built in rangefinder. That’s up to you, but I’d make the decision based on the type/style of hunting you do. For many people, they’ll never notice the drop in glass quality. For some people, it makes ALL the difference. I personally decided to go with a separate rangefinder, even though it annoys me. Here’s my logic: I haven’t yet lost an opportunity at an animal because of a separate rangefinder. However, If I can’t find an animal, I can’t kill him.

Back to the Zulu discussion - that’s what makes those things pretty amazing. With image stabilization, you can walk along and hand hold glass while getting “off a tripod” stability. So you can pick up ear flick or tail twitch type movement while hand holding. In scenarios where you’re moving and glassing, that’s a game changer. See something that might be an animal? Throw up the binos, hit the button, and you’ll have your answer in seconds. No setting up a tripod.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[iflyskyhigh]

Yes the Zulu has image stabilizing. It’s pretty wild. I’m guessing all the top brands are scrambling to get in front of that technology. It’s pretty impressive. That being said, it seems like the electronic add-ons significantly reduce glass clarity/quality, as seen on the Swaro EL Range line. The Range version is significantly lower glass quality than the non-range version.

I doubt we’ll see an NL Pure image stabilizing bino that doesn’t give up significant quality, at least not anytime soon.

This is a bit tangential to your original discussion. I went down this same rabbit hole several years ago. The first thing you need to decide is if you’re willing to give up significant glass quality in order to have a built in rangefinder. That’s up to you, but I’d make the decision based on the type/style of hunting you do. For many people, they’ll never notice the drop in glass quality. For some people, it makes ALL the difference. I personally decided to go with a separate rangefinder, even though it annoys me. Here’s my logic: I haven’t yet lost an opportunity at an animal because of a separate rangefinder. However, If I can’t find an animal, I can’t kill him.

Back to the Zulu discussion - that’s what makes those things pretty amazing. With image stabilization, you can walk along and hand hold glass while getting “off a tripod” stability. So you can pick up ear flick or tail twitch type movement while hand holding. In scenarios where you’re moving and glassing, that’s a game changer. See something that might be an animal? Throw up the binos, hit the button, and you’ll have your answer in seconds. No setting up a tripod.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great info. Thank you. I’m not committed to any form factor or route yet. Not sure what type of hunting I’m going to be doing. Been out of hunting for a couple years, and I’m neither a good nor successful hunter. But a very close friend and I decided that hunting was something we were both interested in about 15 years ago and have been trying to teach ourselves how to do it ever since (with the exception of the last couple years…life happened). We have both decided that this is the year were going to tackle it again.

I have kept shooting though. A lot. And the move to better glass on my rifles has made me revisit my other older equipment, hence this thread.

Like one of the other gentleman said once you use alpha glass it tough to go back, which has been my experience in scopes and I’m assuming will hold true for binoculars and or spotting scopes.

One of the other avenues I’m considering is sticking with a separate range finder. I have the Luepold RX2800 and have been impressed and happy with it. They have an RX5000 out now which looks to improve on all things I like about the 2800. Maybe I just stick with my Nikon 10X42’s, RX2800 (or upgrade), and look into the 14 NL’s?

I don’t suffer from Gear Acquisition Syndrome. I don’t often upgrade and especially now that I’m looking at high end items want to take my time and attempt to at least find the correct combo the first time. I usually keep stuff too long, but have also had success selling it once I’m through so even if I make a mistake I’m sure it’s fixable. And like others have said if you reselling Swarovski and the like pretty good chance you’ll get your money back out if it.

 

[hereinaz]

How’s the glass in the Sig 6K? 1-10? 10 Being Swarovski. Does it have the Blue of the original Kilo 10K? How’s the range finder in real world use?

It’s average glass quality/clarity. It does have a bit of color tint. Haven’t seen the 10k to know. The Fury and Kilo 3000 have better glass without the slight tint. A buddy has a pair of Sig Kilo 3000, that I used for years that you could buy and use to see if you like the “style” I talk about.

My buddy and his group were used to his Leica and Swaro 10x so the decreased glass quality of the Kilo 3000 meant they get left behind. They like the mono handheld rangefinder.

They don’t really seem to have a big advantage with the better 10x binos for that purpose. They will use them on their tripod on occasion, but I pull out 15 if I am running a tripod.

Another buddy picked one up and he uses it like me with 15 on a tripod.

If I pick it up my Sig 6k to “glass” detail, I am disappointed. My fury were acceptable.

If glass clarity is a priority, then Swaro or Leica RF binos are the answer. My business partner loves his RF 15s off the tripod. He has to run a second handlheld RF for some hunts. If he doesn’t, he can’t really range anything quickly or close.

In my philosophy of use, the 6k weighs less and serves its function for work mostly inside 600ish, but it is useful out to 1000ish yards. I happily use it to:

Quickly scan a hillside while walking, driving, or glassing.
Quickly view the deer shaped object I see with naked eye to see if it is a deer.
Scan the bushes, trees, and grass as I still hunt/stalk close to see the critters before they see me.

Rangefinder consistently gives me returns past 2000 yards all the time in the field. Can go further depending on the usual factors. That’s about all I need.

 

[Jake Larsen]

Great info. Thank you. I’m not committed to any form factor or route yet. Not sure what type of hunting I’m going to be doing. Been out of hunting for a couple years, and I’m neither a good nor successful hunter. But a very close friend and I decided that hunting was something we were both interested in about 15 years ago and have been trying to teach ourselves how to do it ever since (with the exception of the last couple years…life happened). We have both decided that this is the year were going to tackle it again.

I have kept shooting though. A lot. And the move to better glass on my rifles has made me revisit my other older equipment, hence this thread.

Like one of the other gentleman said once you use alpha glass it tough to go back, which has been my experience in scopes and I’m assuming will hold true for binoculars and or spotting scopes.

One of the other avenues I’m considering is sticking with a separate range finder. I have the Luepold RX2800 and have been impressed and happy with it. They have an RX5000 out now which looks to improve on all things I like about the 2800. Maybe I just stick with my Nikon 10X42’s, RX2800 (or upgrade), and look into the 14 NL’s?

I don’t suffer from Gear Acquisition Syndrome. I don’t often upgrade and especially now that I’m looking at high end items want to take my time and attempt to at least find the correct combo the first time. I usually keep stuff too long, but have also had success selling it once I’m through so even if I make a mistake I’m sure it’s fixable. And like others have said if you reselling Swarovski and the like pretty good chance you’ll get your money back out if it.

If you’re going to have one set of alpha binos, make them 10x. 10x binos will get used more than any other glass you will own. Everything else is niche. You can effectively hand hold 10x, and with ultra clear glass, when they’re tripod mounted, that’s how you’ll find most of your animals. I regularly spot deer at 2-3 miles with 10x binos that are tripod mounted. Glass clarity beats power.

The 12x NL has the fov of many 10x binos, so it’s kinda the exception. Although they’re still a bit tougher to handhold than 10s.

The 14s and big eyes have their place, but depending on how/where you hunt, they may not even be necessary.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hereinaz]

Yes the Zulu has image stabilizing. It’s pretty wild. I’m guessing all the top brands are scrambling to get in front of that technology. It’s pretty impressive. That being said, it seems like the electronic add-ons significantly reduce glass clarity/quality, as seen on the Swaro EL Range line. The Range version is significantly lower glass quality than the non-range version.

I doubt we’ll see an NL Pure image stabilizing bino that doesn’t give up significant quality, at least not anytime soon.

This is a bit tangential to your original discussion. I went down this same rabbit hole several years ago. The first thing you need to decide is if you’re willing to give up significant glass quality in order to have a built in rangefinder. That’s up to you, but I’d make the decision based on the type/style of hunting you do. For many people, they’ll never notice the drop in glass quality. For some people, it makes ALL the difference. I personally decided to go with a separate rangefinder, even though it annoys me. Here’s my logic: I haven’t yet lost an opportunity at an animal because of a separate rangefinder. However, If I can’t find an animal, I can’t kill him.

Back to the Zulu discussion - that’s what makes those things pretty amazing. With image stabilization, you can walk along and hand hold glass while getting “off a tripod” stability. So you can pick up ear flick or tail twitch type movement while hand holding. In scenarios where you’re moving and glassing, that’s a game changer. See something that might be an animal? Throw up the binos, hit the button, and you’ll have your answer in seconds. No setting up a tripod.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I largely agree with this assessment. Separate rangefinder isn’t a bad thing. Where I differ is my personal recommendations that come from my philosophy of use. There are hunts where I might choose 16 IS binos, but they aren’t my typical hunts.

I justify the weight of my entire “glassing/shooting kit” so carrying a tripod when I leave behind a bipod and separate rangefinder, and go with the lighter 8x32 binos.

While not necessary, the combo is convenient. If you do PRS or NRL, the combo is “necessary” to maximize your time on the clock.

That brings up one point, that it is far easier to range long distances with binos because of the added objective size, magnification, dual eyes, and glass clarity. It is hard, if not impossible to range in low light with a 6x or 8x rangefinder with the small objective. A 32 objective will transmit significantly more light than the small mono rangefinder. So, while I can’t say a specific animal was killed, in theory a mono rangefinder could be the weak link when all my other glass could see an animal in certain low light conditions.

I ran an Sig 16x IS for a while and tested it as a part of kit to carry with the Sig 10x32 RF and a Kowa 554. Handheld it’s amazing. For mobile hunters who don’t glass off a tripod, it’s gonna be the best because the stabilization makes it usable for less total weight. I wanted to carry a spotter everywhere, but the difference between the 15/18 binos I had run and was used to was just too great. It’s limitations didn’t justify the benefits of having the spotter. So, I sold it and went back to my sort of standard kit, the RF bino in my chest and 15/18 on the tripod.

IS is not critical for me, I pack a tripod for shooting and glassing most hunts. Once you add a tripod, the IS is meaningless and the glass clarity and brightness are significantly worse. With smaller objectives you lose the ability to see in the low light edges of the day which are super valuable for my hunting.

But, as he mentioned, being able to carry the IS 16 on the chest and handhold is really cool. I really liked it in that style.

I wish we had the 12 EL Range with the Sig rangefinder and IS. That would be the most amazing bino and I would pay $3-4k for it.

 

[Jake Larsen]

I largely agree with this assessment. Separate rangefinder isn’t a bad thing. Where I differ is my personal recommendations that come from my philosophy of use. There are hunts where I might choose 16 IS binos, but they aren’t my typical hunts.

I justify the weight of my entire “glassing/shooting kit” so carrying a tripod when I leave behind a bipod and separate rangefinder, and go with the lighter 8x32 binos.

While not necessary, the combo is convenient. If you do PRS or NRL, the combo is “necessary” to maximize your time on the clock.

That brings up one point, that it is far easier to range long distances with binos because of the added objective size, magnification, dual eyes, and glass clarity. It is hard, if not impossible to range in low light with a 6x or 8x rangefinder with the small objective. A 32 objective will transmit significantly more light than the small mono rangefinder. So, while I can’t say a specific animal was killed, in theory a mono rangefinder could be the weak link when all my other glass could see an animal in certain low light conditions.

I ran an Sig 16x IS for a while and tested it as a part of kit to carry with the Sig 10x32 RF and a Kowa 554. Handheld it’s amazing. For mobile hunters who don’t glass off a tripod, it’s gonna be the best because the stabilization makes it usable for less total weight. I wanted to carry a spotter everywhere, but the difference between the 15/18 binos I had run and was used to was just too great. It’s limitations didn’t justify the benefits of having the spotter. So, I sold it and went back to my sort of standard kit, the RF bino in my chest and 15/18 on the tripod.

IS is not critical for me, I pack a tripod for shooting and glassing most hunts. Once you add a tripod, the IS is meaningless and the glass clarity and brightness are significantly worse. With smaller objectives you lose the ability to see in the low light edges of the day which are super valuable for my hunting.

But, as he mentioned, being able to carry the IS 16 on the chest and handhold is really cool. I really liked it in that style.

I wish we had the 12 EL Range with the Sig rangefinder and IS. That would be the most amazing bino and I would pay $3-4k for it.

Excellent summary. I agree with the 4x/6x small objective RFs being the weak link. Im not a super long range shooter. Max 600 in perfect conditions. Low light, I’m probably going to be 400 and under. Haven’t got screwed by it yet, but it’s a possibility.

In a perfect world without compromise, I’d choose RF 8s for my chest rig, and 12s for the tripod. But I’m not willing to carry that much glass most of the time. I hunted many many years with nothing but elite 10s on the chest. I go back to that again and again. That being said; I’m hunting mule deer, bears and elk in MT/WY/ID. I glass off a tripod A LOT. But when stalking and/or moving, handholding happens, and it’s critical in those circumstances. All depends on how/where you hunt. A hardcore cous deer guy would probably want more juice than just 10s.

In case you didn’t know, they make 10x and 12x IS binos as well. Point being, you don’t have to go all the way to 16s on the chest rig if you don’t want to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hereinaz]

If you’re going to have one set of alpha binos, make them 10x. 10x binos will get used more than any other glass you will own. Everything else is niche. You can effectively hand hold 10x, and with ultra clear glass, when they’re tripod mounted, that’s how you’ll find most of your animals. I regularly spot deer at 2-3 miles with 10x binos that are tripod mounted. Glass clarity beats power.

The 12x NL has the fov of many 10x binos, so it’s kinda the exception. Although they’re still a bit tougher to handhold than 10s.

The 14s and big eyes have their place, but depending on how/where you hunt, they may not even be necessary.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love what Jake is adding. Gives lots of context and lays out the give and take for these decisions. There is no “right” answer…

What kind of deer are you spotting? Where are you hunting?

I think the difference in our philosophy maybe has to do with the area and game.

Definitely a good 10x can find game. Clarity can trump magnification. For more than 95% of US hunters, they are gonna work and could be the only glass they need, balancing all the other factors. For elk, they can work easily to find game. The 16x IS will work great.

On coues deer, I can spot them with Swaro 10, but I need magnification to see antlers. I was spotting them at 1500 yards with Swaro 15 but couldn’t distinguish between doe and buck. And, in Colorado, it’s nice running 15 to glass and pick apart oak and brush for elk. And, fun to find mule deer and other critters as well.

My specialized kit can translate to all hunting, but a general kit won’t translate as well to our southern AZ hunting.

Also, when we run tripods. We get used to it and it’s nothing to stop, pull out the tripod and glass quickly. I can say that having to stop to pull out a tripod adds maybe 60-90 seconds and I can be glassing.

And, having the stability of a tripod even with 10s is best. Of course, that is where the IS for you works well.

But, as you said, clarity trumps magnification. And, so it does with the IS vs tripod.

Such a give and take what is “best” and even what is necessary.

To know that guys are running things like this in AZ and NM, it can help explain the reason behind my philosophy of use…

 

[hereinaz]

Excellent summary. I agree with the 4x/6x small objective RFs being the weak link. Im not a super long range shooter. Max 600 in perfect conditions. Low light, I’m probably going to be 400 and under. Haven’t got screwed by it yet, but it’s a possibility.

In a perfect world without compromise, I’d choose RF 8s for my chest rig, and 12s for the tripod. But I’m not willing to carry that much glass most of the time. I hunted many many years with nothing but elite 10s on the chest. I go back to that again and again. That being said; I’m hunting mule deer, bears and elk in MT/WY/ID. I glass off a tripod A LOT. But when stalking and/or moving, handholding happens, and it’s critical in those circumstances. All depends on how/where you hunt. A hardcore cous deer guy would probably want more juice than just 10s.

In case you didn’t know, they make 10x and 12x IS binos as well. Point being, you don’t have to go all the way to 16s on the chest rig if you don’t want to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agree 100%. If I had to choose one pair of binos to hunt the west, it would be an alpha glass 10 or 12. If I were deep backcountry, weight for premium, same. Archery, definitely 10, maybe even an 8x in timber.

So, the 10 and 22 EL range are SO tempting, but the rangefinder…

The 12IS seem like a sweet spot. Field of view is important to maximize catching the ear flick and tail sweep. Inside 300 yards I run my 10s, because of FOV.

I wouldn’t choose a 10 or 12 IS over 10 Swaro because of clarity. That’s why I say the 16 IS.

 

[Jake Larsen]

Love what Jake is adding. Gives lots of context and lays out the give and take for these decisions. There is no “right” answer…

What kind of deer are you spotting? Where are you hunting?

I think the difference in our philosophy maybe has to do with the area and game.

Definitely a good 10x can find game. Clarity can trump magnification. For more than 95% of US hunters, they are gonna work and could be the only glass they need, balancing all the other factors. For elk, they can work easily to find game. The 16x IS will work great.

On coues deer, I can spot them with Swaro 10, but I need magnification to see antlers. I was spotting them at 1500 yards with Swaro 15 but couldn’t distinguish between doe and buck. And, in Colorado, it’s nice running 15 to glass and pick apart oak and brush for elk. And, fun to find mule deer and other critters as well.

My specialized kit can translate to all hunting, but a general kit won’t translate as well to our southern AZ hunting.

Also, when we run tripods. We get used to it and it’s nothing to stop, pull out the tripod and glass quickly. I can say that having to stop to pull out a tripod adds maybe 60-90 seconds and I can be glassing.

And, having the stability of a tripod even with 10s is best. Of course, that is where the IS for you works well.

But, as you said, clarity trumps magnification. And, so it does with the IS vs tripod.

Such a give and take what is “best” and even what is necessary.

To know that guys are running things like this in AZ and NM, it can help explain the reason behind my philosophy of use…

View attachment 823635

Again, perfect explanation. Our different approaches are stemming from the game we’re trying to spot.

OP- The trick is to balance the distances you’re looking with FOV and power. Catching movement is how the human eye finds game. At any given distance, there’s a sweet spot of enough power to see detail, but not so much that you lose excess FOV. You want the widest FOV you can get away with at any given distance. Over time, this will yield far more animals found. That’s why clarity is king. Allows for less power at a given distance - more FOV without losing the ability to see detail. Pair this with the fact that most animals move in the first and last hour of daylight - you want maximum light gathering and clarity in your glass.

Coues are some of the toughest animals to see, and in big open country. I’m hunting mountains, a lot of burn areas or mixed timber/edge of treeline type stuff. Most of the time I’m glassing inside 2,000 yards. If I have a spot where I’m forced to glass from significantly further, that’s when I want the 12s,14s or the dual spotters (those things are absolutely unfair for long range glassing) However, where I hunt most of the time, I’m looking inside 2500 yards or so. That’s why 10s have been the staple bino for me. I can tripod mount them and find game; then handhold them on the stalk. As the glass has gotten better and better, I’ve found that even extreme long range glassing is worthwhile with 10s. Backpack style big mountain hunting forces me to make weight concision decisions. That’s why 10s on the chest and a Kowa 66 in the pack to size up what I’ve found with the binos covers most of what I do. If I’m heading to a glassing spot where I know I need more, I’ll bring more.

I’m actually very interested in the 10x52 NL Pure…maximum clarity, FOV, light gathering in a 10x package.

I don’t personally use the Zulus. As you said, once you get used to it, setting up for even a 5-10 minute session isn’t bad. If I’m not setup on a good glassing spot during prime animal movement windows; then I screwed up. But for guys who cover country by moving and glassing handheld- a very common way to hunt in the west - they’d be the ultimate bino.

Hopefully this all helps OP understand what might be the best choice for him


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

So no spotting scope at all?

Rarely. And if I do it’s the compact Swaro ATC.

 

[hereinaz]

Again, perfect explanation. Our different approaches are stemming from the game we’re trying to spot.

OP- The trick is to balance the distances you’re looking with FOV and power. Catching movement is how the human eye finds game. At any given distance, there’s a sweet spot of enough power to see detail, but not so much that you lose excess FOV. You want the widest FOV you can get away with at any given distance. Over time, this will yield far more animals found. That’s why clarity is king. Allows for less power at a given distance - more FOV without losing the ability to see detail. Pair this with the fact that most animals move in the first and last hour of daylight - you want maximum light gathering and clarity in your glass.

Coues are some of the toughest animals to see, and in big open country. I’m hunting mountains, a lot of burn areas or mixed timber/edge of treeline type stuff. Most of the time I’m glassing inside 2,000 yards. If I have a spot where I’m forced to glass from significantly further, that’s when I want the 12s,14s or the dual spotters (those things are absolutely unfair for long range glassing) However, where I hunt most of the time, I’m looking inside 2500 yards or so. That’s why 10s have been the staple bino for me. I can tripod mount them and find game; then handhold them on the stalk. As the glass has gotten better and better, I’ve found that even extreme long range glassing is worthwhile with 10s. Backpack style big mountain hunting forces me to make weight concision decisions. That’s why 10s on the chest and a Kowa 66 in the pack to size up what I’ve found with the binos covers most of what I do. If I’m heading to a glassing spot where I know I need more, I’ll bring more.

I’m actually very interested in the 10x52 NL Pure…maximum clarity, FOV, light gathering in a 10x package.

I don’t personally use the Zulus. As you said, once you get used to it, setting up for even a 5-10 minute session isn’t bad. If I’m not setup on a good glassing spot during prime animal movement windows; then I screwed up. But for guys who cover country by moving and glassing handheld- a very common way to hunt in the west - they’d be the ultimate bino.

Hopefully this all helps OP understand what might be the best choice for him


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This convo has been one of the best to break down and explain choices/tradeoffs that get made for glass. Glad you added your two cents, cause it really shows both sides. And, I am constantly changing my own mind trying to find the "perfect" kit "for me". But, I am pretty well settled into my current kit, until I can get some 12 or 14 NLs or until Swaro puts a better rangefinder in their ELs.

Not that it will help OP make the decision, lol. You don't know till you try.

 

[Jake Larsen]

This convo has been one of the best to break down and explain choices/tradeoffs that get made for glass. Glad you added your two cents, cause it really shows both sides. And, I am constantly changing my own mind trying to find the "perfect" kit "for me". But, I am pretty well settled into my current kit, until I can get some 12 or 14 NLs or until Swaro puts a better rangefinder in their ELs.

Not that it will help OP make the decision, lol. You don't know till you try.

That’s the problem with glass haha. No matter how good it is, there’s always something in the back of your head saying “what if I could make it a tiiiny bit better?!”

That being said: I’ve got a pair of 12x42 NLs that I’d trade towards 10x52s if you can get your hands on any…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lhbackcountry]

Great points by @hereinaz and @Jake Larsen.

I spend 4 months in the southern whitetail woods, and two weeks out west roughly a year and the argument to upgrade binos keeps getting stronger. At least I can convince myself, I am giving myself the best chance to see critters ( to one of your points - cant kill what you cant see)

my wallet hates rokslide. Let us know what you decide OP!