New Benchmade Hunting Knives

gelton

WKR
Joined
May 15, 2013
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Location
Central Texas
I know several people were interested in information on Benchmades new line of hunting knives released at this years shot show. I just received my copy of Elk Hunter magazine and they had a real nice spread in there. The knives appear to be great but I haven't been able to find the specs on the weight but the Hidden Canyon seems to be the clear winner in that regard.

http://hunt.benchmade.com/product.aspx
 
I'd like to pick one up myself but am currently using the bench made griptilion folder with the drop point blade as my utility knife with a havalon in the bag for skinning/deboning and without knowing the weight of the hidden canyon I'm really not sure what I would gain/lose by dropping the griptilian .
 
I have a long (multi decade) history with benchmade knives, and because edge retention is their primary concern they over harden their knives. A couple of my Benchmades, in fairly pedestrian steels, and I have found the common knives harder to sharpen than their premium, limited run steels. A prime example is one of my favorite utility knives, the AFCK. I have two in ATS34 and one in M2 High Speed Steel. I will sharpen the M2 any day of the week, and I send my ATS34 back to the factory to be re-sharpened. I have never been a fan of ATS34, despite the industry love for it, and I blame Benchmade; my first and only experience with it. I know others love the Paul Bos heat treat on ATS 34, but I can't get myself to spend the coin after seeing what benchmade did to it. ATS34 and M2, both hardened to 60-62RC behave very differently when you try to sharpen them yourself. If you have a sanding wheel and a buffing wheel, then you should have no problems, but if you are using less sophisticated means to sharpen you will have issues. It does bother me that they are no longer listing hardness on their blades.

Of course, I have not bought a benchmade in the last 14 years or so, so if their philosophy, heat treat, or metallurgy have changed for the better, I wouldn't know.

pat
 
Hope to try one here next week. Not convinced I'll ever ditch the havalon but we'll see.
 
Those are some nice looking blades. Might have to try out the saddle mountain hunter.
 
Here are some specs I found online for the hidden canyon:

Specifications
Blade Length: 2.67"
Blade Thickness: 140.00"
Handle Thickness: 0.580"
Blade Material: S30V Premium Stainless Steel
Blade Hardness: 58-60 HRC
Blade Style: Modified Clip-Point
Lock Mechanism: Fixed
Overall Length: 6.32"
Sheath Material: Leather
Class: Blue
Weight: 3.52 oz.
Made in USA
 
I have a long (multi decade) history with benchmade knives, and because edge retention is their primary concern they over harden their knives. A couple of my Benchmades, in fairly pedestrian steels, and I have found the common knives harder to sharpen than their premium, limited run steels. A prime example is one of my favorite utility knives, the AFCK. I have two in ATS34 and one in M2 High Speed Steel. I will sharpen the M2 any day of the week, and I send my ATS34 back to the factory to be re-sharpened. I have never been a fan of ATS34, despite the industry love for it, and I blame Benchmade; my first and only experience with it. I know others love the Paul Bos heat treat on ATS 34, but I can't get myself to spend the coin after seeing what benchmade did to it. ATS34 and M2, both hardened to 60-62RC behave very differently when you try to sharpen them yourself. If you have a sanding wheel and a buffing wheel, then you should have no problems, but if you are using less sophisbos. ated means to sharpen you will have issues. It does bother me that they are no longer listing hardness on their blades.

Of course, I have not bought a benchmade in the last 14 years or so, so if their philosophy, heat treat, or metallurgy have changed for the better, I wouldn't know.

pat

ATS34 is an incredible steel and very easy to sharpen with a basic lansky, DMT, or smith like sharpening system. The Spyderco sharpmaker is another good choice. They use a lot of S30v which is hard as hell. There is no better heat treater in the industry than Paul bos. I have personally had my blades heat treated by him. If your into knives you should own some type of sharpening system and most cost a fraction of the knife you are sharpening.
 
ATS34 is an incredible steel and very easy to sharpen with a basic lansky, DMT, or smith like sharpening system. The Spyderco sharpmaker is another good choice. They use a lot of S30v which is hard as hell. There is no better heat treater in the industry than Paul bos. I have personally had my blades heat treated by him. If your into knives you should own some type of sharpening system and most cost a fraction of the knife you are sharpening.

I don't disagree with much of what you have said here. My 440V Military sharpens easier than my ATS34 Benchmades. And when the edge chips,it takes much work to fix. Like I said my experience with 20 year old Benchmade knives in ATS34 has soured me on the steel. The AFCK, The Stryker, a couple of the Autos, and an early Nimravus have convinced me that I don't like Benchmades in ATS34. All of the Benchmades I have bought in the last 15 or so years have been M2 or D2. I think there are better steels out there for my money. I have not had occasion to pick a Bos treated ATS34 blade; I have too many other blades that I want to get, first. I would likely love it, but finding the cash to drop on a knife that I am not certain I will like is kinda tough for me. My collecting days seem to be over, I buy beaters now, preferably in VG10, M2, or D2, in that order. Like I said in the Ti knife thread, maybe the technology had changed for the better enough that I won't recognize the products that previously soured me.

I have used Lansky, Sharpmaker, and ProFile, as well as professional kitchen bench stones. For quickness the Sharpmaker is my favorite. For my kitchen steel there is a guy locally that will do a slackbelt sharpening for me for dirt cheap. Well worth it for an annual trip for my kitchen knives.

pat
 
Here are some specs I found online for the hidden canyon:

Specifications
Blade Length: 2.67"
Blade Thickness: 140.00"
Handle Thickness: 0.580"
Blade Material: S30V Premium Stainless Steel
Blade Hardness: 58-60 HRC
Blade Style: Modified Clip-Point
Lock Mechanism: Fixed
Overall Length: 6.32"
Sheath Material: Leather
Class: Blue
Weight: 3.52 oz.
Made in USA

Interesting, the fixed blade hidden canyon is lighter than the griptilian by 3 oz...I would have thought just the opposite.
 
That grizzly Creek folder looks interesting with the gut hook. I keep toying with the idea of using a gut hook for the long cuts in the hide when skinning - they make REALLY fast work of it and won't cut/nick the meat (pet peeve of mine).

What is the benefit of the faux serrations on the back of all their blades?
 
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I am not a big fan of stainless to begin with. Though my edc is a bench made of S30V. I much prefer a carbon or tool steel blade any day. I love O1, D2, 1084 and 1094.
 
I am not a big fan of stainless to begin with. Though my edc is a bench made of S30V. I much prefer a carbon or tool steel blade any day. I love O1, D2, 1084 and 1094.

See, we're more alike than different. From when I was collecting I got a couple of Round Eye Knife and Tool, and got a D2 Sifu (without finger grooves) and a hobbit fang in 1095. My M2 Benchamde smokes everything else I own. At times it is tricky to sharpen because it develops such a fine wire edge. When you think you are starting to get a wire edge, it is probably as good as it will get. The hairs jump off my arm when they see that blade coming, and it holds it for a long, long time.

pat
 
That grizzly Creek folder looks interesting with the gut hook. I keep toying with the idea of using a gut hook for the long cuts in the hide when skinning - they make REALLY fast work of it and won't cut/nick the meat (pet peeve of mine).

What is the benefit of the faux serrations on the back of all their blades?

Yeah, I think of that every time I see a Wyoming knife on the shelf, but it seems such a limited use, specialty item to carry. I am considering one of the Gerber ones to play with that you can remove the blade and replace it with a razor blade.

Based on what I can see the serrations are texturing out near the nose of the blade so you can run you index finger out to near the point for a little more control while caping and whatnot.

pat
 
Yeah, I think of that every time I see a Wyoming knife on the shelf, but it seems such a limited use, specialty item to carry. I am considering one of the Gerber ones to play with that you can remove the blade and replace it with a razor blade.

Based on what I can see the serrations are texturing out near the nose of the blade so you can run you index finger out to near the point for a little more control while caping and whatnot.

pat

I have also been looking at some of those safety blades they sell for cutting seastbelts and such for the purpose as well - some are only ~ 1 oz.

I figured that was it for the serrations, not sure if it is a practical touch or not.
 
I think knives are a personal preference thing. The knives were sharp no doubt and the long stout blade is handy for sure. Will I be packing one on every mountain hunt instead of a havalon.....not likely, but they seem well made and kept an edge well after two mountain goats. I prefer the smaller havalon, mostly no doubt cause its all I've really used since 2009 and any other knife I use to skin anything with seems HUGE even when they are more like a normal hunting knife.

Basically if you are used to a hunting/skinning knife in that size it should work great for you.
 
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