New archer - bow suggestions ??

[matsprt]

I've decided to try bow hunting. Went to a store that has a pretty well staffed archery department. Tried 2 bows and talked for quite a while trying to decide what I should buy for a first bow. I'm not a big advocate in buying something "entry level" that you either quickly outgrow or it breaks soon after purchase.

This shop carriers a number of well known brands to chose from and the staff seems knowledgeable. They quote price ranges from $400 to almost $2000. They were suggesting $600 to $900 range.

Fortunately I have space to practice daily on my property. I hope to get reasonably proficient before hunting season. I just need to buy a bow and assorted extras.

Looking for suggestions.

 

[TheACGuy]

I got back in the game this January after more than 10 years of being out. Went with a used Bowtech Revolt X. I really dig it, love that I can tinker with any adjustments without a bow press. Saves me money on a press (for the time being) and a trip to the local pro shop which is about an hour away from me. Bowtech uses what they call their Deadlock Cam System, there are other companies out there that have similar type systems as well. Research will help decide what you want, and a lot of guys will tell you to shoot ‘em all before you pull the trigger to see what feels best to YOU.

 

[bsnedeker]

If I was in your shoes looking to buy a bow right now I'd be looking for a flagship bow from the last couple of years. My local bow shop has the hoyt rx5 ultra sitting in the shelf right now for 1200 bucks...400 off what it was last year. That is an amazing bow...I actually like it more than the upgraded version they released this year. Matthews also had some killer bows last year.

Honestly though you can get a great bow for much less than that. I would buy a bow from your bow shop. I find you get better service when you buy from them. Shoot what they have, see which one feels best for you, and buy it.

Also make sure you budget for accessories. I like Hamskea rests, Spot Hogg sights, and tight spot quivers... none of those things are cheap. I don't use a stabalizer because my hoyt came with one, but that is another area you can spend a grip of money.

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk

 

[BriderLV]

I would second that shooting a few is helpful. Last year I was locked in on a Hoyt Ventum before shooting them. I tried a PSE EVL, PSE Drive, Hoyt Ventum and Torrex, Elite (Kure or Remedy can't recall) and a Mathews (V3 maybe) and actually bough the cheapest bow because it worked well for me. The PSE Drive has poly limb pockets instead of metal and didn't have the high end cams but at $650 left room for some better accessories. You will find the accessories will hit your wallet hard if you are a gear guy.

Finding a prior years model can be great as well but depending where you are might not be that much of a discount. I only have 2 bow shops, other than big box, and they don't discount much.

From what I have been able to shoot, I wasn't a fan of the Mathews grip angle, I liked the Hoyt and PSE bows the most but didn't feel much different in the flagship lines for PSE. Wasn't a fan of the Torrex. They carried Bowtech but was out of the model I was looking for.

My buddy got a Prime and likes it, my old bow was a Prime (2011 model) and it served me well for lots of years. Huge difference to the current models, like night and day.

If you are just hunting with it might be different than if you want to shoot leagues like 3D or other events like TAC and MAF.

Sorry long post and not sure if helpful, lots of variables. But test drive a few and see what you like. I got back into archery after taking time off and just really enjoy it.

 

[Kularrow]

I wouldn’t buy a used flagship especially if you grow to love archery and bow hunting you’re just going to want to upgrade anyhow, it’s the nature of this business space out with the old and in with the new. If I had the money to spend today I’d get the Mathews V3X 33 with the accessories you’ll spend over a $1000 outfitting a used bow anyhow unless you go cheap on accessories.

 

[11boo]

I went to a good local archery shop when I was in your shoes. They checked my draw length and brought out 4 demos for me to try out on the indoor range.
Didn’t even shop around after that. Bought one on the spot and I have a good shop to deal with now.

 

[Wapiti1]

I would point you to the mid range bows as well. They are the flagship bows of yesterday and there is nothing they won't do for you. We pretend that flagship bows do magical things. Maybe they are a little easier to tune, but as a beginner, that is something you want a shop to do. If they are cool with it, stick around for that process so you gain some insight.

The PSE Brute is a nice option. They don't get much press here, but Bear makes several excellent options for the money. Their Whitetail Legend or Alaskan are solid for the money. Any other brand that is similar in specs to these will do you well. Fit and feel is important. Pay attention to that. If it doesn't feel good in the hand, and the draw doesn't feel nice, it isn't for you.

I would spend the coin on good accessories that are proven to last and can go to the next bow. Hamskea, Spott Hogg, Montana Black Gold, are a few known high quality brands. Of course, there are others.

Jeremy

 

[sndmn11]

Any bowtech with deadlock cams or elite with the set system. Either gives you the ability to tune without a press, without shims, without twisting yokes.

 

[Keptwalkin]

Best advice is dont spend too much. Tech has come a very long way and a bow worth $500 today far out performs those a decade ago. Gues what, the top of the line bows a decade ago killed all sorts of animals

 

[Zac]

Your going to be fine with almost anything you get, especially because you've chosen to stay away from starter, and kit rigs. Pretty much every bow company is running a binary cam, so really they are all very similar in that regard. Biggest discrepancy these days is tunability. So if you want to make your life easy with only an allen wrench then I would encourage you to purchase something from Bowtech, or Elite. If you want to eventually buy a press, and a bunch of other crap then it really doesn't matter. Just don't buy something super short. Stick to around 30 and larger ATA lengths.

 

[matsprt]

Your going to be fine with almost anything you get, especially because you've chosen to stay away from starter, and kit rigs. Pretty much every bow company is running a binary cam, so really they are all very similar in that regard. Biggest discrepancy these days is tunability. So if you want to make your life easy with only an allen wrench then I would encourage you to purchase something from Bowtech, or Elite. If you want to eventually buy a press, and a bunch of other crap then it really doesn't matter. Just don't buy something super short. Stick to around 30 and larger ATA lengths.

What do you mean when you say “don’t buy something super short” ??

 

[sagerat]

What kind of hunting are you doing? If your hunting from a tree stand a short bow is handy but i also agree that a short bow is a little tougher to shoot. 30 inch ATA is about as short of a bow i would tell someone who is just starting their bow shooting career. Don't look at the names on the bow. Shoot whats most comfortable to you. Do some blind bale shooting to really feel the bow.

 

[Kularrow]

I have a Mathews V3 27 ATA, the string angle is pretty severe , the draw cycle isn’t the greatest also it isn’t as stable as a longer bow lol I bought it because it was light, fast and compact but not without some cons.

 

[SuspiciousFish]

I agree with what others are saying. Buy a mid line bow from PSE, Hoyt, Bowtech or Matthews etc. Also try them out first and dont get hung up on one brand or another. There is a lot of brand elitism in compound bows but you need to pick what works best for you and not the name on the riser. I cant tell you how many times I have heard someone say, "I only shoot Matthews..."

Also, consider the total price in your budget as well. It can add up quick after you buy your sight, arrow rest, release, stabilizer(s), arrows and quiver. I personally recommend a 3 pin sight with a tool free adjust. It makes zeroing your bow much easier when you dont have to tweak it with an Allen wrench. Stabilizers are stupidly expensive nowadays but there are cheap options like the Trophy Ridge Blitz or check for deals on ebay.

Typically when I am looking at bows these are the things I look for:

1. Take the bow and hold it out like you are about to draw. Feel how the bow grip feels in your hand. If its awkward or uncomfortable you are going to end up gripping it too hard and having bad form.

2. When holding the bow out, feel the balance of the bow. Does the bow rock forward or backward? Does it tilt to one side or another? A lot of this balance you can fix with stabilizers but typically you want it to be pretty neutral or a slight forward tilt as a bare bow.

3. When you try the bow and draw it feel how smooth the draw is. That means when you pull the arrow back is it the same amount of force the whole draw or is there a hump at the end? If there are strange forces in the draw cycle it will make shooting consistently uncomfortable.

4. When you are at full draw how does the "Back Wall" feel. The back wall is the end of the string draw and you want to keep some pressure on the string. If its spongy and not solid if can cause you to wander back and forth in the Let Off or even have an accidental letdown which is never fun. Also ask for different Let Off options. Usually bows have 75% to 90% Let Off. Personally I like a lower Let Off bow as the pressure keeps everything more aligned but a higher Letoff will make it easier to keep at full draw in a hunt.

5. At full draw put the top string to the tip of your nose and the bottom string at the corner of your mouth. Does this feel natural? If you have a long draw length and a short ATA bow the string angle can feel unnatural.

6. Finally its time to shoot the bow. It sound weird but aim the bow at the staging wall then close your eyes when you actually release. This will force you to focus on how the bow is reacting to the shot instead of where the arrow went. Feel for things like a lot of hand shock or vibration or if the bow feels like it wants to jump out of your hand.


Take all these into account when trying bows. Some of the issues like hand shock and balance you can tweak out but the draw cycle and string angle you are pretty much stuck with. Spend a lot of time picking out releases too. An archer's release is an extremely personal thing and you really want something that fits and works well with your body.

Its great you have space in your property to shoot, that is a big factor in people staying motivated with archery. If you spend a lot on your rig then find out you need to drive 45 min to get to a range you can lose motivation. Archery is very much a lifestyle and a lifelong commitment. Shooting a bow is one of the most rewarding and relaxing things you an do. I have had days at work where I wanted to punch a hole in the wall and after an hour at the range I will come home and feel like I meditated for a whole day.

 

[CO-AJ]

I was in your exact shoes about 3 weeks ago and have your exact philosophy. I will tell you what I ended up with in a moment, but first a couple things I found helpful.
1. Watch youtube videos from various people. I liked extreme outfitters, average jack archery, and nock-on. They will talk through likes and dislikes with "flagship" bows, terminology, and setups.
2. Avoid box stores and support the small guy. The small stores love archery and they want to "usually" put you in something you will enjoy. The guy covering archery in a box store is not nearly as passionate, and talking to that passion is what I wanted.
3. Like guns I went with buy once/cry once. Now in all truth I have gone with that satement numerous times as I have more than 1 gun and figure I will eventually have more than 1 bow. I too went in with I wanted a higher end and was willing to pay the price for something that is top notch.
4. Shoot multiple brands, but get the shop to have the draw weights and lengths all the same. I shot 4 bows at one small store and they adjusted all 4 of them happily. Shooting back to back is critical to getting one with the best feeling for you.
5. So, I ended up going with the Mathews V3X 33. I have a 30" draw and have it setup right now at 55# since I am shooting alot for practice. A close second was the Hoyt Ventum Pro. Also shot the Bowtech, PSE, and Elite. The Elite was my least favorite and before shooting them side by side I was pretty sure the Bowtech was going to get my 1100+ dollars.
6. I don't know why I didn't get into this 10-15 years ago, but I absolutely love shooting my Mathews. I go out every weekend and work different distances on the range. I probably enjoy range time with the bow more than the rifle, never thought I would say that!

Enjoy the search and plan for numerous rabbit holes to run down post purchase.

 

[SuspiciousFish]

Enjoy the search and plan for numerous rabbit holes to run down post purchase.

Oh man the rabbit holes run deep...

8:00 pm: Innocently search "What arrow size is best for elk hunting?"
2:45 am: Have Excel and 20 Firefox tabs open trying to calculate Kinetic Energy vs Impulse Momentum.

 

[Zac]

What do you mean when you say “don’t buy something super short” ??

Probably anything under 30 inch axle to axle. If you shoot under 28 inch draw then some of those are okay, but really not much point in going with anything that short.

 

[sndmn11]

I don't think I'd even have a new archer shoot the bow and tried to think about a back wall or vibration.
I'd have them pick based on if the grip is stable, if they like how it draws, and if they can let it down.
Elite remedy seems like a winner for a new archer, maybe revolt xl.

 

[CO-AJ]

I don't think I'd even have a new archer shoot the bow and tried to think about a back wall or vibration.
I'd have them pick based on if the grip is stable, if they like how it draws, and if they can let it down.
Elite remedy seems like a winner for a new archer, maybe revolt xl.

You make a good point, but as a brand new archer I wanted to know about backwall, the roll-over valley, and brace height effect. Grip is a must and since you have it in your hand you may as well let a couple fly at 10-15yds.

 

[sndmn11]

You make a good point, but as a brand new archer I wanted to know about backwall, the roll-over valley, and brace height effect. Grip is a must and since you have it in your hand you may as well let a couple fly at 10-15yds.

Maybe. I think of it like if it were to go pick a F1 race car while not ever having raced. I'd likely choose something before I know what I really like and appreciate. I'd probably end up with a race car that I want to get rid of in a few months or a year because experience fosters preferences and different needs.