Need some bare shaft advice.

Remps17

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
248
Set up.

Mathews halon 6
70lb
29” draw

300g axis
28 5/8”
167 up front

Shot my bare shaft through paper from about 6 feet away and got them to shoot bullet holes. Shot them to 30 yards and were hitting right by 3 inches and a hair high but with a mean tail whip.

I am a rookie to this. Should I play around with my bow or fletch up my arrows or some of them and then group tune them and strap on my BH and see where I sit?

Thanks guys.
 
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
1,065
Location
Yorkville, IL
Set up.

Mathews halon 6
70lb
29” draw

300g axis
28 5/8”
167 up front

Shot my bare shaft through paper from about 6 feet away and got them to shoot bullet holes. Shot them to 30 yards and were hitting right by 3 inches and a hair high but with a mean tail whip.

I am a rookie to this. Should I play around with my bow or fletch up my arrows or some of them and then group tune them and strap on my BH and see where I sit?

Thanks guys.
Are you saying you shot bare shafts at 30 yards and that was the result? What kind of target are you shooting into, foam or bag?

I personally just shoot bare shafts up close, if at all. I use it to tell me if the tears I am getting through paper are due to fletching contact or not.

If I was in your shoes I would jump right to walk back tuning. If you are unfamiliar with the technique just search on YouTube. Basically, you shoot at 3 yards making sure you are hitting behind your pin. Walk back until that same pin is hitting at distance. It typically will be somewhere between 45 to 50 yards. If you are hitting left move your rest to the right and vice versa. Small changes make a big difference. Once you make a change, go back to 3 yards and readjust your sight. Then repeat the process.

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madkaw284

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
May 15, 2018
Messages
101
Set up.

Mathews halon 6
70lb
29” draw

300g axis
28 5/8”
167 up front

Shot my bare shaft through paper from about 6 feet away and got them to shoot bullet holes. Shot them to 30 yards and were hitting right by 3 inches and a hair high but with a mean tail whip.

I am a rookie to this. Should I play around with my bow or fletch up my arrows or some of them and then group tune them and strap on my BH and see where I sit?

Thanks guys.

You need something to compare the bareshaft to. Fletch up 2 of your shafts, then shoot the fletched shaft and then the bareshaft and compare the results. Do this more than once and walk back to further distances as you get them to group.


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Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
1,045
Location
Boston Ma
I’ve had the same thing perfect bullet holes in the basement and at 20 hitting a few inches off my fletched arrow. I usually shoot 3 bareshafts with 3 fletched and make adjustments based on results
 
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R

Remps17

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
248
Are you saying you shot bare shafts at 30 yards and that was the result? What kind of target are you shooting into, foam or bag?

I personally just shoot bare shafts up close, if at all. I use it to tell me if the tears I am getting through paper are due to fletching contact or not.

If I was in your shoes I would jump right to walk back tuning. If you are unfamiliar with the technique just search on YouTube. Basically, you shoot at 3 yards making sure you are hitting behind your pin. Walk back until that same pin is hitting at distance. It typically will be somewhere between 45 to 50 yards. If you are hitting left move your rest to the right and vice versa. Small changes make a big difference. Once you make a change, go back to 3 yards and readjust your sight. Then repeat the process.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Yeah I shot at 30 yards and got a bad tail whip but not that far off where they should be hitting. Shooting into foam.
 
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Remps17

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
248
I’ve had the same thing perfect bullet holes in the basement and at 20 hitting a few inches off my fletched arrow. I usually shoot 3 bareshafts with 3 fletched and make adjustments based on results

I fletcher up 3 arrows and my bare shafts are hitting little right and high but with a really bad tail whip. Not sure if I should be concerned with tail whip or not. Also what adjustments should I be making? On the rest?

Thanks.
 

madkaw284

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
May 15, 2018
Messages
101
I fletcher up 3 arrows and my bare shafts are hitting little right and high but with a really bad tail whip. Not sure if I should be concerned with tail whip or not. Also what adjustments should I be making? On the rest?

Thanks.

If your bareshafts are hitting to the right then you’ve got a nock left condition. Absolutely be concerned about tuning that out. You can start by bumping your rest in very small increments to the right.


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Remps17

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
248
If your bareshafts are hitting to the right then you’ve got a nock left condition. Absolutely be concerned about tuning that out. You can start by bumping your rest in very small increments to the right.


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Should I be concerned with the tail whip I get out of the bare shaft or more concerned at point of impact?
 

madkaw284

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
May 15, 2018
Messages
101
Should I be concerned with the tail whip I get out of the bare shaft or more concerned at point of impact?

Absolutely! Both shafts should be entering the target at the same trajectory. As you’re making adjustments it should work itself out, and if not then it could be a spine issue. But looking at your posted specs it sounds like you have a real good setup.

If adjustments of the rest don’t get you good results then you may be better off changing the top hats, I’m not real familiar with Mathews but the concept is the same for all bows.
Bareshafts hitting right of fletched=
Bump rest to the right or move cams to the left and vice versa.


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Remps17

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
248
Absolutely! Both shafts should be entering the target at the same trajectory. As you’re making adjustments it should work itself out, and if not then it could be a spine issue. But looking at your posted specs it sounds like you have a real good setup.

If adjustments of the rest don’t get you good results then you may be better off changing the top hats, I’m not real familiar with Mathews but the concept is the same for all bows.
Bareshafts hitting right of fletched=
Bump rest to the right or move cams to the left and vice versa.


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Appreciate the advice.
 
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Remps17

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
248
It could easily be a form issue as well

I thought it was as well but was extra cautious when shooting and all shots came out the same way. I know when it’s me.... usually, and when it’s the bow/arrow
 

MTSabo

WKR
Joined
Aug 22, 2017
Messages
405
Location
Ohio
I thought it was as well but was extra cautious when shooting and all shots came out the same way. I know when it’s me.... usually, and when it’s the bow/arrow
Ok cool. Both should tune out pretty easy then moving your rest until fletched and bare hit the same spot.
 

Brandon_SPC

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 19, 2019
Messages
275
When shooting bareshafts at distance you need to first make sure it is a perfect day. Before even shooting bareshafts shoot all your arrows through paper to make sure they are shooting a bullet hole. Not just one arrow but all your arrows if they arn't all shooting bullet holes rotate your nock a little until they shoot a bullet hole. Then when you shoot bareshafts at distance shoot multiple ones because form can cause tail whips and you will be chasing your tail.

Below is a group of bareshafts I shot last year. This was from 30 yards and you can see how some are straight and some are crooked. Well the crooked ones were from my form and if I would have based my results off that one arrow I would've completely took my bow out of tune.
 

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