Need help: Hoyt timing

[Recluse]

It's a 2020 Axius Alpha. I had it in the draw board and the bottom cam is hitting before the top

Per Hoyt literature, I'm not supposed to touch the bottom cables. I'm supposed to add twists to the yolk cables (on top) OR remove twists from the control cable

So my question is: If I add twists to the yolks, do BOTH sides yet twisted clockwise.?

thank you

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Yes, twist both legs of the yoke equal amounts in the same direction to change cam timing without affecting cam lean.

 

[Recluse]

Thank you! Since the bottom cam is hitting first, I'm planning to add a 1/2 twist on each side (on the top yokes)

Never done this before. Does it simply come right off, once the bow is pressed ?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Yes, just a little compression from the press and you'll be able to slide the yoke loops off the oblong pulleys that keep the yokes on the axle.

 

[Recluse]

So I actually had to turn counter clockwise, but was able to get timing PERFECT. However, my top cam is now making an audible noise when it's at full draw.
Video https://youtube.com/shorts/ooEGK_BKl3o?feature=share

 

[Marble]

That's not good...

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Recluse]

I reverted the changes and it stopped making the noise. I then removed a twist out of the control cable to get the timing perfect.

 

[JeffRaines]

I reverted the changes and it stopped making the noise. I then removed a twist out of the control cable to get the timing perfect.

that’s weird but good thing you got it fixed!

it’s cool having your own press but there’s definitely a learning curve to some of the stuff

 

[Recluse]

Yea, I was getting worried for a second. Hoyt's official stance is to adjust the yoke cables to fix cam timing and to not do the control cable (as it can affect peak draw weight). Though they say you CAN twist/untwist the control cable.

The only thing I can think of is the local pro shop ding dongs must have messed with the yokes prior

 

[wapitibob]

It's unlikely that even timing will result in the best shooting bow.

 

[Recluse]

That's what I've heard. Just trying to baseline things and get my paper tune looking good. I fixed the vertical stuff, but now getting tail right tear.

Do I add a twist to the right yoke ?

If I do this, do I need to remove a twist from the opposite side (to keep timing in synch?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Tail right = twist right yoke & untwist left yoke

Twist one side and untwist the other in equal amounts to keep the overall length of the cable constant and leave cam timing unchanged.

Here's a handy chart from Gold Tip that I refer to frequently when tuning:

 

[Recluse]

How often do you guys move the rest vs twist on cables? I'm trying to leave my rest centered ...

 

[Mighty Mouse]

How often do you guys move the rest vs twist on cables? I'm trying to leave my rest centered ...

I start at 13/16" centershot and twist yokes first but have no qualms about moving the rest if tuning results indicate a need to do so. I frequently end up moving my rest at least a little inside/outside of 13/16". Hoyt's recommended centershot range is pretty wide (1" to 5/8"), so you could go 3/16" in either direction from 13/16" and still be within the manufacturer's spec. If you have to move the rest further than that, you may be getting vane contact or you may need to adjust how you're gripping the bow.

 

[wapitibob]

I set my rest at 13/16 then screw the cams in/out for best groups at 60 and ignore cam lean.

 

[Recluse]

Thanks fellas. I'm getting that same cam noise when I add any twist in my yokes (see video above). It is my stop slapping past my control cable. Not sure what's going on

 

[Zac]

Thanks fellas. I'm getting that same cam noise when I add any twist in my yokes (see video above). It is my stop slapping past my control cable. Not sure what's going on

Stop drawing your bow in that condition without an arrow. That thing is a ticking time bomb.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Thanks fellas. I'm getting that same cam noise when I add any twist in my yokes (see video above). It is my stop slapping past my control cable. Not sure what's going on

Seems like a silly exercise, but double check that all your draw length modules and draw stop pegs are in the same letter position. If they are indeed all in the same position, the little bit of additional cam lean you're inducing by twisting the yokes must be allowing the upper stop to slip past the cable, which seems strange but I guess it's possible. You definitely don't want that stop getting on the wrong side of the cable.

 

[Recluse]

I'll check that out, thanks. Bow is shooting consistent bulletholes now.

And yes Mightymouse, that's exactly what was happening.

 

[Recluse]

Yea so I figured out why (when I twisted a yolk cable), my draw stop was passing the control cable.

Nuts&bolts told me to check the position of the draw stop at full draw. And sure enough, the control cable is not even close to be centered on my draw stop. I suspect it was the shop that did this, but I want to fix it.

The pic is of my top cam (right side). Do I remove twists to get it centered ? Ashame because I'm shooting bulletholes right now