My first and only AR 15

For a new AR user/owner, I’d go with a basic BCM 16” rifle. It’ll do everything you need it to do from “home security” to kill big game. The factors for what you specifically want it to do are based off an optic and a bullet, but more importantly how you train to use it.

You can have a $2500 AR and $25 worth of capability and that rifle won’t matter much.

I am not a fan of DD because they cost too much for they are. I’ve also broken more DD rifles than any other AR I’ve ever used combined.
That makes sense, thanks for all the insight. I’m looking into some AR training courses in a nearby town. As a CO resident I mainly want to get into the AR platform before some more restrictive legislation passes this year. My “home defense” use is rightfully in quotations because it’ll mainly be for target practice and some light varmint hunting until I get more trained up and equipped.

Any reason to get a 14.5” over a 16”? I want to keep my options open as far as future modifications like suppressors etc.
 
That makes sense, thanks for all the insight. I’m looking into some AR training courses in a nearby town. As a CO resident I mainly want to get into the AR platform before some more restrictive legislation passes this year. My “home defense” use is rightfully in quotations because it’ll mainly be for target practice and some light varmint hunting until I get more trained up and equipped.

Any reason to get a 14.5” over a 16”? I want to keep my options open as far as future modifications like suppressors etc.
I don’t think so, 14.5” is like a high maintenance girlfriend, more problems than solutions. 16” will do everything you need it to.
 
You could also get a cheaper lower and say a Daniel defense upper.

I’d go 16” or 18” even. I have a 20” rock river and it is super accurate.
 
Top tier: Knights Armament, LMT, Noveske, HK, Larue

Really really good tier: LWRC (piston), PWS, BCM, Radian, Geissele, Colt, FN, Seekins

Pretty decent tier: Daniel Defense, SOLGW, Sig, LWRC (DI)

Okay tier: S&W, Ruger, Spikes, Aero, Stag

Better than nothing: PSA, Bushmaster, Del-Ton

Once you move up from really really good tier to top tier, in my opinion you're getting diminishing returns. People buy Knights and HK because they're either rich or they're LARPing, or both (No hate, I'd buy a KA rifle if I was rich). Most people will buy lower tier guns and have zero issues, and that's fine. It really comes down to how much you shoot, how hard you treat your gear, and how much you want to trust your life to it. If it's a home defense gun, don't cheap out unless it's that or nothing.

I have a PSA that has about 400rds through it with no major issues. But I have an LWRC and a Noveske both with well over 15k rounds with no major issues. To compare to hunting rifles, can you kill an elk with a Savage Axis or a Remington 783? Of course, and thousands of hunters do every year. But would you rather be 200yds from a BOAL with an Axis/783 in your hands, or a Customised Sauer/Tikka/Sako?

Don't let perfect be the enemy of good though. Id way rather see a guy protect his family with a PSA because that's all he can afford, instead of having nothing because he's saving for an LWRC.

Just my 2 cents, good luck!
 
I don’t think so, 14.5” is like a high maintenance girlfriend, more problems than solutions. 16” will do everything you need it to.
Ok thanks for the education. I see LWRC offers more rifles with a CHF barrel, but they seem to be about a half pound heavier than the BCM. Any thoughts there? Looking specifically at their IC Discovery
 
Any reason to get a 14.5” over a 16”? I want to keep my options open as far as future modifications like suppressors etc.

Just maneuverability in home defense, in and out of vehicles etc... in my opinion the difference between 14.5 and 16 is not great enough to be worth having a pinned/welded muzzle device. Especially if you're not sure what you'd like to do as far as suppressor. If you're coming down to 10.5 or 11.5, the difference is worth it. But then you're getting into the AR Pistol world and that's another can of worms (not sure about the laws in your state). I'd stick with 16 as a "do-everything" length. You can always get an 18" or 20" upper later if you're chasing the velocity for hunting.
 
I'd like to hear more about this, if you don't mind.
The first DD I had an issue with came in the form of a bolt release spring busting and the bolt release wouldn’t operate correctly.

The second DD I had an issue with the gas key bolts wouldn’t tighten, eventually I broke a bolt trying to tighten it.

The third DD I had an issue with I broke the extractor after shooting a few hundred rounds.

The fourth DD I had an issue with was extremely sloppy/loose between the upper and lower.

I’ve also had 3-4 DD rifles that I have shot the barrel out of after 2500-3000 rounds.

I would like to point out that these were all 10.5” work rifles that were used by various folks, BUT over the course of three years I continued to have an issue with a rifle from DD everytime I deployed.

This is why I don’t care for DD rifles. For what they cost you can build a better rifle.
 
I’d go bcm personally since it look like it’s added to your list… after that I’d get an sig.
DD is overrated from what I’ve shot of them.
I’m not an ar connoisseur as my favorite, still own, is an aero lower with a larue upper.
Theres good and bad to a lot of them I don’t mind a good fn upper and aero lower. Bcm upper was a fun wan too.

If you build one just get quality parts kit and a good barrel.

I’d get one for home defense/range and a bolt gun or a separate ar for varmits. Lpvos aren’t good for home defense
 
AR for home defense that will also be for varmints, try a 6.5 gren. With a 10.5 barrel. That 16/18 barrel, you have too much to move. I prefer a pistol for inside work, unless you get a very small 9mm Ar with 9” barrel.
 
other than being heavy I love my lwrc. with that said ive never been to war or handled a true battle rifle. my son is infantry and shot my lwrc and seemed to like it
 
Crs 18-12-101-e.5
As a CO resident I mainly want to get into the AR platform before some more restrictive legislation passes this year.

(e.5) “Handgun” means a pistol, revolver, or other firearm of any description, loaded or unloaded, from
which any shot, bullet, or other missile can be discharged, the length of the barrel of which, not
including any revolving, detachable, or magazine breech, does not exceed twelve inches.


I think heavy heavy consideration should go into buying a lower to assemble. This will let you use it as a pistol with the above uppers, or slap on a rifle upper. There are vehicles and in-person advantages to a handgun over a long gun. It also opens up the 8" 300BO suppressed if you want to do home defense "best".

Otherwise, a 16" mid LW from BCM will last through the apocalypse.
 
I think the only bad one I’ve had was an old Olympic Arms carbine from the late 1980’s. The bottom of the bolt was chattered and it would double and triple because of it. I’ve owned many others and have had zero problems. I do not shoot them competitively or professionally and I don’t have a full auto lower to mess with. Right now I have a PRI, a Colt, and a mongrel build of some kind. They all work great.
 
I'm kind of AR dumb but i've had 3. A basic DMPS 16", a RRA predator pursuit 20" (was accurate), and a BCM 14.5" mid length gas. BCM is definitely highest quality. Runs like a top. The primary complaint i have with the BCM is that it's gassy AF with a suppressor. Because it's a "under the bed" gun, it wears a suppressor because I don't want to be shooting 14.5" ARs inside without a can. The BCM is also the least accurate of the 3 by a fair margin.

Something to consider if you're going to pair with a suppressor - does it have an adjust able gas block? Can one be added easily? Everywhere I've looked people say "just get a black river tactical gas tube to tune it" - well those effin guys haven't had mid length gas tubes available to purchase for an always suppressed application for the last year far as I can tell. Edit: oddly enough, i got a response to an email from BRT today about the gas tube saying you can order one if it's not in stock.. Website doesn't allow me to order anything out of stock though.. So if anyone has hot tips on how to order one, i'm all ears.
 
People have a poor opinion of PSA because of tales of trouble getting rifles built early on. Many of those tales were true. That was years ago. Now they're the standard grade more expensive carbines have to be better than to justify the price. You can upgrade the PSA to the level of the boutique brands in terms of durability. The PSA won't be as nice. Budgets are important.

I wouldn't give up any velocity if you're trying to get a bullet to come apart, I.e. 40gr varmint bullets vs drywall. Nor would I if I intended to use a bonded bullet. It's not like a stress relieved 16" pencil weighs all that much more. If your intended use is different, disregard.
 
I would like to point out that these were all 10.5” work rifles that were used by various folks

Both of those factors make big differences, especially if they were also suppressed, or running 855A1. Can't argue with that experience you had. For 16" guns though, especially unsuppressed and shooting off the shelf .223, someone would have to go above 10k rounds to start seeing problems, and they typically go double that in that context. Thanks for sharing though, it's good info to have.
 
Agree with the sentiments to build a lower and put a high quality upper on it. Your money will go further. An Aero lower (with whatever parts kit) plus a BCM upper was my path. Roughly $1000


Agree that 14.5" is a hassle with little to no benefit--unless you are absolutely certain you will never change the muzzle device

I have a 14.5", and I wish it was either much shorter (11") or just 16"+
 
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