—Muzzleloader reliability— actually going bang

[Hunthigh1]

How can I improve my muzzy’s odds of actually firing?! Yesterday I had my 3rd failure to fire on an animal. I had to re load and clean then re- stalk the herd to finally kill my first muzzy elk. The gun went off on the 3rd shot on the second stalk. I hunt in Idaho so am limited to Idaho rules.
Everyone talks about muzzy accuracy. I seem to have that part figured out.

Are some powders easier to light with a percussion cap then others?

Are some caps better then others?
Here’s my setup
CVA optima NW .50 cal
90grains T7 loose powder
Lubed Wonder wad
420grain no excuses

 

[Werty]

After you clean your muzzleloader, make sure you fire a couple of caps through it before loading.

 

[Wrench]

Dry powder is a must. If you are having issues, be certain the nipple is clear. You can prime the nipple with powder to ensure ignition.

My buddy called me last year and said he dropped a few caps on elk with no ignition, so I told him to run a wire through the nipple, prime it with some powder and go kill an elk.

He did.

 

[cgasner1]

After you clean it pop a couple caps then dump half a load of powder in it a torch it. Loose that lined patch a properly fitted no excuse doesn’t need it and the gun should fire every time


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[Centralcoastca]

I got a blackhorn specific breach plug for my cva accura because I read that using the standard breach plug hole is smaller and it needs a little more to ignite. If yours is clean and open and it’s still doing this I wonder if that would help? Also it was recommended to use standard shotgun 209 primers instead of the muzzleloader primers for a little more flame as well when using blackhorn. I don’t know anything about the powder you’re using but it might be a similar issue.

 

[Centralcoastca]

Just reread the musket cap part… didn’t get the Idaho law part the first time. might solve the problem then but not be legal.

 

[Paul in Idaho]

What brand of cap were you using? I have heard many people say they have better performance from RWS caps by Dynamit Nobel (German made) than other brands. That is what I have used since I first got my muzzleloader several years ago, and haven't had a single misfire yet.

I haven't tried other powders for comparison, but have had consistent success with Triple Seven FFG.

All of my hunts have been winter hunts in cold, wet conditions. In addition to the tips above, consider how you store and transport your gun once loaded. If it's cold, avoid moving the gun back and forth between warm camp and cold hunts. Condensation can form and moisten the loaded powder.

 

[cnelk]

Back in the day when I used #11 percussion caps, I would drill out the flame hole a bit larger.
Then I would take a chamfer bit and put a slight cup on the bottom on the nipple
Never had a mis-fire after that

 

[OXN939]

How can I improve my muzzy’s odds of actually firing?!

Get a torch tip cleaner to clean the flash hole and a drill bit, generally 1/8, for the flash channel. This is the equivalent of taking a fuel injector apart to actually clean it versus simply running the engine at high RPMs, which is basically all the "snapping a few caps through it" idea does.

 

[FrontierGander]

Use real black powder.

 

[long hunter]

Try a duplex load, start with 5gr. black powder down the tube, then load the fake powder backing off on that charge bye 5 grs. Pick the vent prior too loading to insure there is a clear flash channel.

 

[Hunthigh1]

Use real black powder.

So, it seems that you and longhunter believe that real black powder is easier to light off with a percussion cap. If that is the case and my number one priority is reliability; then why does everyone use substitutes? Is it because they Less corrosive? Do substitutes like 777 have other advantages? greater consistency? Higher velocity? IF black powder is truly easier to light then I don't see why the hell I would use something else. . .

Thanks.

 

[Hunthigh1]

Get a torch tip cleaner to clean the flash hole and a drill bit, generally 1/8, for the flash channel. This is the equivalent of taking a fuel injector apart to actually clean it versus simply running the engine at high RPMs, which is basically all the "snapping a few caps through it" idea does.

Just purchased 2 of these cleaners. Thank you for including in the link.

 

[Hunthigh1]

Try a duplex load, start with 5gr. black powder down the tube, then load the fake powder backing off on that charge bye 5 grs. Pick the vent prior too loading to insure there is a clear flash channel.

This is a very interesting idea. I have not heard of this. . . See my question above regarding BP vs 777. Thanks for the help

 

[FrontierGander]

So, it seems that you and longhunter believe that real black powder is easier to light off with a percussion cap. If that is the case and my number one priority is reliability; then why does everyone use substitutes? Is it because they Less corrosive? Do substitutes like 777 have other advantages? greater consistency? Higher velocity? IF black powder is truly easier to light then I don't see why the hell I would use something else. . .

Thanks.

Yes real black sets off at 325ish degrees VS 800 for the pyrodex/T7. Not everyone shoots subs. Black powder requires an explosives license and special storage, which makes finding it in stores, difficult.

But, its truly easier to ignite.

Seeing how its a musket cap set up and T7... Any chance those are CCI Reenactor musket caps you are shooting? Look on the label.

 

[OXN939]

Just purchased 2 of these cleaners. Thank you for including in the link.

You won't regret it. Probably 75% of ignition issues are related to the breech plug- if you clean your breech plug with those, match your propellant and primer correctly and keep powder in good condition, you'll be just fine.

 

[wowzers]

I shoot the exact same setup as you minus the Noexcuses. I couldn’t get them to group we’ll in mine. I have had two no fires in five years that were both while sighting in. I think I fired too many times without cleaning it however One fired with just another cap. Now I also fire a cap through it before loading the first time. I also inspect the breech plug after firing the cap to make sure you can still see through the tiny hole. Hoping not the have a repeat this week on my mule deer tag.

 

[long hunter]

Like gander said, they are called BLACK POWDER weapons for a reason.

 

[Hunthigh1]

Yes real black sets off at 325ish degrees VS 800 for the pyrodex/T7. Not everyone shoots subs. Black powder requires an explosives license and special storage, which makes finding it in stores, difficult.

But, its truly easier to ignite.

Seeing how its a musket cap set up and T7... Any chance those are CCI Reenactor musket caps you are shooting? Look on the label.

crazy! that is a BIG difference! Thank you. The caps are RWS that I am using.

 

[FrontierGander]

ok rws caps are great.

If you are cleaning between shots, you could just be soaking the breech plug and that area just isnt drying when you dry swab the bore/fire a cap. One thing you can try is pushing a dry patch down the bore, ramrod and all, Fire a cap and see how that patch looks. If its burnt, the face of that breech plug should be dry.

When i shoot the NW Optima, what i would do, is remove the breech plug fully, then swab the fouling out, toward the muzzle rather than pushing it back into the face of the breech plug.