Multi Pin Slider Question

CB4

WKR
Joined
Oct 10, 2018
Messages
575
Location
Iowa
Setting up my first 5 pin slider. Was planning on having the pins set at 20-60. Going to use the bottom pin as the slider. My question is when you have figured out which sight tape matches do you set the pointer indicating the yardage at 20 or 60?
 
If the 5th pin is your reference pin for the slider it should be sighted in for 60 yards and the pointer would reference 60 yards on the tape.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If the 5th pin is your reference pin for the slider it should be sighted in for 60 yards and the pointer would reference 60 yards on the tape.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This, cut off your tape so 60 is at top

Exactly how I run my mbg pure gold 5 pin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I wouldn’t cut the tape. I use mine to dial both directions so if I want to shoot 43 yards at a known target I can dial up to that exact distance. At 285fps I can use my 60 to shoot 20-120 yards.
 
I wouldn’t cut the tape. I use mine to dial both directions so if I want to shoot 43 yards at a known target I can dial up to that exact distance. At 285fps I can use my 60 to shoot 20-120 yards.

There is also another way to do it that requires less housing movement, still gives you a hard zero, and allows you to shoot further (more total downward movement of the sight possible). All the pins move on most sights. Therefore when you dial down your 60 yard pin (or whatever happens to be your rover pin) you also move all of your other pins. For example, if you dial 60 to 65, your 50 is at about 55, your 40 is at about 46, and your 30 is at about 36-37, and so on. There is a slight fudge factor of a yard or two because the gaps get increasingly wider as you increase distance, but it gets you plenty close if you aren't chasing Xs. If you play with it a little is super effective and simple. I use this a lot on the range, less so when hunting, and more at longer ranges that are in the middle of gaps (65, 55, 45). I then gap shoot or hold high/low for close ranges (25) or shots within a couple yards of a pin (42, 53, 68).

I personally run a 6-pin sight with my tape set to my 70-yard pin (my max hunting shot).
 
referencing the above regarding not cutting tape


Tried this, have at it- personally I am too forgetful, anxious, etc in the heat of the moment to add another step of trying to make sure I am zeroed without a hard stop. Longer shots "sometimes" will give you some extra time to dial- but personally I don't want to be messing with it up close. It kind of depends on your pin gapping and fps you are shooting- but with most situations under 50 yd I have better luck with gap shooting. play around with it though- figure out what works for you.
 
Just make it a habit of setting back to the home position after each shot. I have lost a few arrows the first shot or two of the day on a few occasions because I forgot to move the sight back and then went to shoot with a different pin thinking it was set to that pin's normal distance.
 
Not trying to derail this thread but with so many threads on rockslide and other forums about multipin and sliders, using this and that as reference points, it's no wonder guys have problems when combining a multipin with a slider. Even with fixed pins it's easy to grab the wrong pin, done that myself, that's part of why I went to an EZV sight. It doesn't eliminate the possibility of grabbing the wrong pin or in this case the wrong tick marks but it sure helps with adding the range finder part of the sight to double check which pin or tick mark I should be using.
 
Not trying to derail this thread but with so many threads on rockslide and other forums about multipin and sliders, using this and that as reference points, it's no wonder guys have problems when combining a multipin with a slider. Even with fixed pins it's easy to grab the wrong pin, done that myself, that's part of why I went to an EZV sight. It doesn't eliminate the possibility of grabbing the wrong pin or in this case the wrong tick marks but it sure helps with adding the range finder part of the sight to double check which pin or tick mark I should be using.

I've looked at these and kept quiet until now. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I think most serious archers/hunters require (or need) a little more precision than is possible with the EZV, especially at long range. I don't even think the double pin is a very good choice for the average western hunter, or the trick pin system. It is all about precision, and the most precise system is a moveable sight, and one with multiple pins (I prefer 6) is the most versatile. It isn't foolproof, and you can definitely screw it up in the heat of the moment, but you have a precise aiming device instead of something that only gets you in the ballpark. Plus, how can you possibly become a better archer if you don't know exactly where you are aiming? Or shoot through tight gaps? Or account for steep shots? Or different sized animals? Seems like it is a great sight for those who want to get drawn, get close, and yank a trigger fast, and I know that is a recipe for disaster...I had severe target panic for years and this sight only seems like a good way to head down that road.

But to each their own. And to be clear, I've never tried the sight but I have watched a lot about it. I think it is a crutch for minds that go to mush or those who are OK with mediocrity.
 
Interesting Gumbo, you should try one if nothing more than to say it didn't work for you. Be for warned though that there a whole bunch of guys who said the same as you before trying one then had to take back all their words, it could well happen to you too LOL. Seeing as they are made in your home state MT. and not too far from Billings, with I might add A 30 day money back guaranty you have nothing to lose.
 
Gumbo is spot on about the EZV, it’s a way to get close, but the science behind archery trajectory will not make it precise.
 
Back
Top