Max # to buy

[RogerRabbit]

I've been looking at getting into archery and fortunately have a shop that's being very patient with me and working with me.

It's a zero pressure situation I've shot a lot of bows and I keep coming back to the same one. I'm currently shooting it at 50 lb, because that's what it's set at currently, its a 60 lb Max bow but he said he can order me the same bow in a 70 lb max if I want, the price would be the same.

Should I order the 70 lb Max, just so I have that option. I really only plan to hunt whitetails and turkeys, but who knows what the future could hold.

I've shot some other bows at 60 lbs and had no issue pulling that. I plan to have this bow for 10 years or so, this is an investment for me.

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[Fisherhahn]

If you’re comfortable at 60 that is what I’d do. Tons of deer are killed at 50 every year and modern bows are plenty efficient. 60 would make me more comfortable if ever going after something bigger like elk. I would NOT get a 70 just to shoot it at a lower poundage. Most bows shoot and perform their best when set at their maximum poundage. I shoot at 70 because I have a short draw length and like a little heavier arrow so I need more poundage to avoid a big arcing tragectory.

 

[Jbehredt]

I used to shoot 70 but my shoulder likes 62 a lot better. Have yet to have an arrow stop in an animal at the lower draw weight. Don’t feel like you need more bow than you can comfortably draw from any position and at any moment. Deer and elk won’t always give you time to warm up and set your feet perfectly square to their vitals.

 

[RogerRabbit]

If you’re comfortable at 60 that is what I’d do. Tons of deer are killed at 50 every year and modern bows are plenty efficient. 60 would make me more comfortable if ever going after something bigger like elk. I would NOT get a 70 just to shoot it at a lower poundage. Most bows shoot and perform their best when set at their maximum poundage. I shoot at 70 because I have a short draw length and like a little heavier arrow so I need more poundage to avoid a big arcing tragectory.

Good info. If that true about the bow shooting better at its max. Which I have no clue about, im pretty new to archery. I'll probably go with the 60 max, shooting the variety of bows I have so far, I see no reason to have to pull 70 just to say i do...

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[Stalker69]

Yea I would not jump to 70, 60 will do anything you want plus even bigger animals if the need arises.

 

[Skelly]

Shoot what your comfortable with. I bought an 80 and it wasn't fun for me. could only shoot about 15 times before i started breaking down

 

[Desk Jockey]

How old are you? How strong? Any shoulder issues? No need to answer, but consider these as you make your decision.

I am about 5 years into archery hunting so there are better and more experienced voices to consult. My $0.02 is shoot what you are comfortable with but define comfort. Shooting on a range indoors or out is one thing. Shooting from kneeling or on uneven ground where there is a log right where you really want to put your back foot for a good stance or twisted in an awkward way in a tree stand to get an angle on that damn buck that snuck up on your 6 is another thing. When the moment of truth comes you will have the advantage (and curse) of Adrenaline to help you with the pull but the right poundage may be less than most think.

Arguably the heavier and harder hitting bow has advantages up to a point but shooting something you can handle easily in all conditions is perhaps more important.

For my part, I am 250#, lift weights, fairly strong. I am also on the wrong side of 40 and have down some evil to my shoulders over the years. i started with a 65# draw weight. It was fine for me. I can haul it in any position without issue.

I Drank the cool aid when bought another bow 2 years ago and jumped up to 75# and thought about 85# and I am glad I didn’t. I definitely notice the difference of 75#. It isn’t as easy to handle in a less than ideal positions and I tweaked my shoulder once drawing it from kneeling and once letting it down in a tree stand when I decided not to take a shot. I may back this bow down to 70# after the season this year. Thinking about wanting to shoot for a couple of more decades, Future bows will be 60-65# or so to save shoulder wear and tear.

 

[Trevor73402]

How old are you? How strong? Any shoulder issues? No need to answer, but consider these as you make your decision.
For my part, I am 250#, lift weights, fairly strong. I am also on the wrong side of 40 and have down some evil to my shoulders over the years. i started with a 65# draw weight. It was fine for me. I can haul it in any position without issue.

I Drank the cool aid when bought another bow 2 years ago and jumped up to 75# and thought about 85# and I am glad I didn’t. I definitely notice the difference of 75#. It isn’t as easy to handle in a less than ideal positions and I tweaked my shoulder once drawing it from kneeling and once letting it down in a tree stand when I decided not to take a shot. I may back this bow down to 70# after the season this year. Thinking about wanting to shoot for a couple of more decades, Future bows will be 60-65# or so to save shoulder wear and tear.

I recently decided to get back into bow hunting after a very long break chasing the long range precision shooting game. I am 225#, pretty big guy, lift 6-7 days a week and have been for 20 years. Just like you, Ive beat my shoulders up pretty good over the years. My last bow was maxed out at 73lbs. I decided that the new Vertix would be just fine at 65lbs. Even at that poundage, I still feel it in my shoulders. I'm certainly not going to be shooting 50-75 arrows at a time anymore.

 

[Zac]

I think the Mathews Vertix or VXR model with the switch weight technology is a great option for switching weight. Your bow will stay at max efficiency no matter what mod you choose to use.

 

[S.Clancy]

It's incredibly individual. I'm 6'1", little over 180# and draw 80lb with ease. Make sure you can draw it kneeling, sitting, any position and you'll be fine. Just don't play "hero ball" as it were. If you can't draw it easy, drop the poundage.

 

[BeaverHunter]

It's incredibly individual. I'm 6'1", little over 180# and draw 80lb with ease. Make sure you can draw it kneeling, sitting, any position and you'll be fine. Just don't play "hero ball" as it were. If you can't draw it easy, drop the poundage.

Agree. I’m 5’11” 170 and draw at 62 pounds. And that’s 4 pounds more than last year. Whatever works for you. I killed 2 bulls shooting less than 60 pound draw weight.

 

[Billy Goat]

If you are new to it stay around 60#. Your going to be better developing form with a lighter weight bow. I use to shoot 82#, then went back to 72-74#. This past year I dropped down to 60# for my whitetail bow. Keep in mind if your stand hunting your going to have cold muscles and more clothes on, I wouldn't hesitate to use a 50# bow.

If you start chasing bigger animals in the future you can reevaluate your setup, but I have seen several elk killed from compounds in the low 50# range. If it were me, and it gets hard for me to listen to myself sometimes, I wouldn't get anything over 60# for deer and turkey. Last several bows I have bought have been 60# and under.

 

[elkstabber]

Since the OP is a whitetail hunter he's likely to be hunting from a treestand. When treestand hunting you're sitting still in the cold for hours. Then, when the opportunity presents itself you'll be drawing the bow without any chance to stretch or warm up in any way. Think about how hard it is to draw a bow after you've been sitting still for hours. Factor this in when deciding how strong you are. Going with a lighter draw weight will mean that the bow is easier to draw and you'll be less noticeable to whitetail when you're drawing. (lots of deer get spooked when a bowhunter has a jerky draw)

 

[Grumman]

I shot 70 in my early years because I thought I needed to. I had lots of shoulder pains from a prior injury that would flare up at that weight. I finally dropped down to 60 and it made all the difference in the world. Sitting in a stand for hours in the cold can really make a difference on what weight you can smoothly draw when needed.


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[Castronova]

My recent experience and first bow...

I'm 5' 10" 198# and have worked out my whole adult life. Just bought a 60-70 and turned it all the way down to learn and practice. It's a movement I haven't done a lot of. I've been shooting for a couple weeks, turned the limb bolts a time or two over that time, and am really dialed in shooting up to 60 - 70 yards. Thought I was at around 68#'s. I measured it today and was at 63#. Turned it one more and am at 65.5 and its a difference I can feel. I'm sure I'll get used to it but I can tell you I have no interest in maxing this bow out. I'll probably shoot it from 65 - 68# max. I just know it won't be practical and that extra poundage is not going to be why I succeed. If I were you who keeps going back to a 50 I would absolutely get the 50 - 60# bow.

I'm also quickly closing in on 40. If I were 20 something I may not think the same.

 

[87TT]

I shot 65# to 67# for the first couple of years. I would start lower at the beginning of my year and bump it up a half turn after a few weeks at a certain weight and I got stronger. There was always a pint where it was no longer fun and I stopped and backed down a notch. Now I shoot a lot more and have both my bows set at max 70#. I shoot 500 gr arrows and it works for me. I think if you are limited on your practice time and don't work up to it, you would be best with 50# to 60#. You can practice longer and work on form and accuracy.