Mathews V3 27 shooting far left

[Mitten_archery13]

I was trying to sight in yesterday at a friend’s house and at ten yards the arrows were hitting six inches left. The sight, Fast Eddie dual pin, was nearly maxed out on windage.
Micro adjustment still had equal movement both ways. When we moved the windage adjustment a few times it did move POI to the right but in small increments.

While at full draw there is a twist in the string and it blocks some of the view through peep sight on the left side.

Is there something going on with the peep sight being partially blocked and forcing me to compensate to get a clear picture sight? Could it be the tune or contact with fetching through the rest?

Bow sight was squared and shot a bare shaft through paper to get it tuned before sighting in.

Shooting an Easton FMJ 250 spine arrow
Vapor trailer gi8 rest

Thank you.

 

[Billy Goat]

What's the centershot? Meaning, what's distance off the riser to center of the arrow shaft?


Seeing cables in the view of your peep to sight is pretty common, once you ignore them you won't notice or think of it again. If it's simply peep rotation, you need to get the string situated correctly so your peep is aligned.

 

[Marble]

Ànd...if you are shooting that far left, you will need to reposition that sight housing, most likely.

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[wyosam]

Guessing centershot moved too far out to paper tune. Need to shim cams to get it to tune with centershot at or near spec.


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[Mitten_archery13]

The rest is limb driven. I loosened the string that’s attached to rest via Allen screw.
Once rest was in raised position, it measured 14/16” to center of arrow shaft. Measuring in front of Berger hole.

When I took the bow to a local shop, he did square the sight to riser and shot a “bullet” hole as he describes it with the bare shaft.

 

[Billy Goat]

So 7/8" is on the edge of recommended cebtershot for that bow, but shouldn't be the problem.

Post a picture of the sight, I'm guessing the windage block needs to be flipped, assuming the housing isn't mounted on a rod, I can't remember what the SH dual pin is right now.

 

[Mitten_archery13]

 

[Billy Goat]

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I'm not seeing anything outwardly wrong, you still have some windage on the rod, but it shouldn't nerd to be that far out in my experience.

Were the cams shimmed?

I start with the rest @ 13/16 or a fuzz wider. Shim cams for lateral correction, make tiny micro adjustments if needed to fine tune my bareshafts/broadheads at distance.

I rarely bother to shoot through paper, normally if I adjust cam lean, set nock point correctly, a mathews will bullet hole for me.


That's one thing you could check, is cam lean. You will need to pull your string stop, but then lay a shaft down your cam, making sure to stay off the rise they have along the string track on the end of the cam, then see where of if the shaft intersects your nock point, and by how much.


This is top cam:


Intersection that seems to usually work for me, tho some are better off with the middle of the shaft at the nocking point.

With the centered cable guard, I set top and bottom cams to have same lean.


Depends on your form, everyone is a little different and why the bow should be tuned to you.

 

[Mitten_archery13]

I am not sure if the cams were shimmed.
I bought this now used and arrived a without accessories. Picture of top and bottom

I will probably take it to the same shop that set up my Hoyt Carbon Spyder.

 

[Kularrow]

I have this bow. I always tune it with shimming the cams, bareshaft and paper before I resight in for the season. Have you changed anchor points recently or releases? The string angle is so severe that little things I’ve noticed on this bow can really push the windage left. I’ve had best luck sighting in when the bows completely tuned.

 

[wyodog]

The issue could be any of the possibilities you listed and a few others. the first thing I would do is get the peep aligned properly so that the peep is aligns with the ring on you scope housing ring. and work from there.
14/16ths isn't horrible but may require a top hat change if you cant get things fixed otherwise.

A bullet hole with a bare shaft is a good starting point but not necessarily a perfect tune. do you know if weight/tape was added to the shaft near the nock to match the vane weight? the reason I ask is because you may have a spine that is a bit too stiff. What is your draw weight, DL and front end weight (insert and point)?

Also what is the arrow length?

 

[Mitten_archery13]

Good morning.
Thanks for all the replies and willingness to help me out.
I am a green horn when it comes to bows and tuning. It’s something I would like to learn and get into and knowing the ins and outs of my gear.

My draw length is 29-29.5” with 70 pound draw weight.
I am shooting a 250 spine arrow cut to 29.5 inches . Throat of nock to end of carbon with a 155 grain Day Six Broadhead. Insert is a 75 grain Easton brass HIT with an Easton collar.
Thought about using a 175 grain VPA double bevel I used last year on some Rampage arrows. I realize this might be a heavy arrow setup but I will be hunting the edge of a cedar swamp in thick cover. Not planning on shots over 25-30 yds.

As far as tape/ weight added to back of arrow, just a Bohning wrap. No arrows have been fletched yet. Was planning on FF pro 2.5 in a four fletch configuration. 5.6 grain per vane.

Out of curiosity, is anybody located near Grand Rapids, MI that would be willing to help me out in person?

Thank you

 

[alexnelon]

I am not sure if the cams were shimmed.
I bought this now used and arrived a without accessories. Picture of top and bottom

I will probably take it to the same shop that set up my Hoyt Carbon Spyder.

That looks like too much lean to me. Plus they look to be leaning in opposite directions?

 

[Wheels]

Check for vane contact with your roller guard.

 

[Marble]

Not sure why everyone is leaning towards a tuning issue. It certainly could be. But the OP said the bow was shooting a bullet hole through paper, but only shooting left. It's very common for the spot hoggs sight housing to be offset to one side because of how it's installed. There are many ways and configurations to put the sight housing on the sight. I would set windage to 0, or the middle and move the sight housing left and start sighting in again.

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[DB29]

View attachment 770474

Is your centershot supposed to be measured off the shelf or the riser? It looks like you are measuring off the shelf and I think it should be measured off the riser.

My guess is you are getting vane contact because your centershot is too close to the riser. This would explain why you could get a bareshaft bullet hole but have issues with fletched arrows.

 

[OR Archer]

Are you left eye dominant? If you are and you’re trying to shoot both eyes open you’re going to run into this issue even if the bow is properly tuned.

 

[Shawn_Guinn]

You stated the shop bareshaft tuned the bow. That’s not gonna mean much when you shoot. The bow need tuned to you not another shooters form and anchor unless I read it wrong.

 

[Mitten_archery13]

Is your centershot supposed to be measured off the shelf or the riser? It looks like you are measuring off the shelf and I think it should be measured off the riser.

My guess is you are getting vane contact because your centershot is too close to the riser. This would explain why you could get a bareshaft bullet hole but have issues with fletched arrows.

I measured with the tape against the riser/ Berger hole while arrow was in upright position in rest. Arrow is a four fletched configuration but will check for vane contact.

 

[Mitten_archery13]

Are you left eye dominant? If you are and you’re trying to shoot both eyes open you’re going to run into this issue even if the bow is properly tuned.

I am right eye dominant and shoot with left eye closed and right eye open