machined inner of a grinder head...

[Tod osier]

I'm looking to upgrade my #8, 1/2 horse Cabela's commercial to something in the 1 1/2 hp range.

When I initially got the Cabela's years ago I was super disappointed with the speed that it ground, especially a second grind. I no longer do a second grind, and don't miss it. In my research on why it worked so poorly, I found that the inner of the head was cast fluted and better grinders have a machined spiral inner of the head and they cut a lot more efficiently (this is consistent with the older grinders I've used too). As a note, at the time Weston made the Cabelas grinders and the Weston grinders had a spiral head whereas the Cabela's had the fluted, a solution was to trick Weston into selling you a head, but you actually had to lie to them to get them to do it.

I notice none of the retailers (LEM, Weston, Meat!, Cabela's) show a good photo and they are all hard to get on the phone (I've tried). My impression is that grinders are large motors forcing meat through inefficient cheaply made heads, which may be fine unless you want to double grind (I don't).

Do any of the contemporary grinders (LEM, Weston, Meat!, Cabela's) have a grinding head that is spiral and machined to have tight tolerances with the auger?

 

[svivian]

I'm looking to upgrade my #8, 1/2 horse Cabela's commercial to something in the 1 1/2 hp range.

When I initially got the Cabela's years ago I was super disappointed with the speed that it ground, especially a second grind. I no longer do a second grind, and don't miss it. In my research on why it worked so poorly, I found that the inner of the head was cast fluted and better grinders have a machined spiral inner of the head and they cut a lot more efficiently (this is consistent with the older grinders I've used too). As a note, at the time Weston made the Cabelas grinders and the Weston grinders had a spiral head whereas the Cabela's had the fluted, a solution was to trick Weston into selling you a head, but you actually had to lie to them to get them to do it.

I notice none of the retailers (LEM, Weston, Meat!, Cabela's) show a good photo and they are all hard to get on the phone (I've tried). My impression is that grinders are large motors forcing meat through inefficient cheaply made heads, which may be fine unless you want to double grind (I don't).

Do any of the contemporary grinders (LEM, Weston, Meat!, Cabela's) have a grinding head that is spiral and machined to have tight tolerances with the auger?

While i cant answer your question directly I can add some comment on the MEAT! 1.5hp grinder as I have one. So far for two seasons it has been excellent and very very fast. I have done three elk, two deer and 3 pigs(250lb - 500lb each) and we cannot keep up with it.

Also they did just come out with a new one that is 1hp that is called the double grinder I believe. May look into that one as well.

 

[Hackleback]

Not sure if this is helpful or not but you can sharpen the plates by placing fine grit wet-dry sandpaper on a flat surface (plate glass is often used), place the cutter flat and sand/polish in a circler motion. Other things that can be done is cube all meat relatively small 3/4" and trim silverskin closely. Also, placing the grinder body and plates in the freezer to get them cold and also having the meat slightly frozen (slushy) also helps with grinding.

 

[sndmn11]

While i cant answer your question directly I can add some comment on the MEAT! 1.5hp grinder as I have one. So far for two seasons it has been excellent and very very fast. I have done three elk, two deer and 3 pigs(250lb - 500lb each) and we cannot keep up with it.

Also they did just come out with a new one that is 1hp that is called the double grinder I believe. May look into that one as well.

We have the same 1.5 Meat brand and it takes longer to unbox than to grind our meat.

 

[WoodBow]

I can't imagine any manufacturer making a machined head. Cost difference would be substantial.

 

[Tod osier]

I can't imagine any manufacturer making a machined head. Cost difference would be substantial.

I didn't say or mean a completely machined head... They are all cast, but the insides are machined to clean them up and give a tight tolerance to the auger. All the older grinders I've seen were made that way.

 

[Snowwolfe]

Why do you think it would grind better if the inner part was machined instead of cast?

IMO the most important grinding factors are temperature, sharpness of blades, and how well the meat was trimmed.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Here's a photo of the inside of the head on my MEAT! 1.5 hp #32 grinder. I can't say for certain if spiral flutes are better than straight, but I can say that this thing is a hungry beast that eats faster than I can feed it...kind of like the hungry beast in the background who came running when he heard me getting out the grinder.

 

[Tod osier]

Here's a photo of the inside of the head on my MEAT! 1.5 hp #32 grinder. I can't say for certain if spiral flutes are better than straight, but I can say that this thing is a hungry beast that eats faster than I can feed it...kind of like the hungry beast in the background who came running when he heard me getting out the grinder.
View attachment 473337

Thanks, that does look very well made compared to what I have now - clean and sharp. Thanks for taking the time to put that pic up.

 

[Tod osier]

Why do you think it would grind better if the inner part was machined instead of cast?

IMO the most important grinding factors are temperature, sharpness of blades, and how well the meat was trimmed.

The ridges in the head offers resistance for the auger to push against. If the inside of the head was smooth the auger wouldn't push any meat. The better the design and execution the more push.

 

[Snowwolfe]

The ridges in the head offers resistance for the auger to push against. If the inside of the head was smooth the auger wouldn't push any meat. The better the design and execution the more push.

If that is what you believe it would be a simple matter to remove those ridges with a die grinder. But my guess is the designers of these machines have those ridges there for a reason. Seems to me it would cost the builder less to have smooth walls instead of those ridges.

 

[svivian]

If that is what you believe it would be a simple matter to remove those ridges with a die grinder. But my guess is the designers of these machines have those ridges there for a reason. Seems to me it would cost the builder less to have smooth walls instead of those ridges.

I think you miss interpreted what he is saying. The ridges are needed to push the meat. The tighter the tolerances of the auger to the ridges allows for more “pressure” meaning a better smoother grind.

 

[Wrench]

X2 on sharpening the blades and plates. I have a surface grinder and hit the plates and blades on it....they cut AMAZING afterwards. You could get similar results with the paper on a surface plate or glass and elbow grease.

 

[Tod osier]

I think you miss interpreted what he is saying. The ridges are needed to push the meat. The tighter the tolerances of the auger to the ridges allows for more “pressure” meaning a better smoother grind.

Exactly.

 

[Tod osier]

X2 on sharpening the blades and plates. I have a surface grinder and hit the plates and blades on it....they cut AMAZING afterwards. You could get similar results with the paper on a surface plate or glass and elbow grease.

That is good advice, I sharpen/flatten blades/plates on a big diamond stone, they are sharp and flat. It is amazing how non flat the plates can be when new.

 

[Tod osier]

This is my current grinder. It grinds perfectly well for a 1/2 horse if the meat is cold and if there is plenty of texture to the meat (like silverskin to grab on to). It grinds fastest with long strips of meat that are cold, like strips of shank are blazingly fast where the grinder is spitting them out, but something with less texture needs to be cold and you need some finesse to get it to eat.

I grew up double grinding (and not that I want to do it again) but if I try to double grind in this grinder, it doesn't push the meat through it hardly at all, just spins and slowly extrudes meat. In reading the threads on grinders here, I've read "if the meat is cold" plenty of times. That is code for the grinder isn't very well made in my mind. The older grinders I've used ground cold meat and warm meat just the same and a second grind nearly as fast as a first grind through a fine plate..

I suppose that I should just buy a 1 1/2 hp #32 and be happy that it grinds plenty fast, which I'm sure it will.

 

[Snowwolfe]

This is my current grinder. It grinds perfectly well for a 1/2 horse if the meat is cold and if there is plenty of texture to the meat (like silverskin to grab on to). It grinds fastest with long strips of meat that are cold, like strips of shank are blazingly fast where the grinder is spitting them out, but something with less texture needs to be cold and you need some finesse to get it to eat.

I suppose that I should just buy a 1 1/2 hp #32 and be happy that it grinds plenty fast, which I'm sure it will.

That’s what I did. Sold my 3/4 and bought a 1 1/2. End result is I am very happy with both grinds. Partially frozen meat does make a huge difference though. Just try slicing up a piece of warm meat with a knife and compare it to slicing up a chunk that is ice cold and partially hard.
Probably overkill for what we do. But at 69, money is secondary to being a happy camper.

 

[Wrench]

When I used to double grind in a #12.... I hated life. Near impossible... and certainly beyond my patience level.

Move to the big leagues and its really easy and just as fast.

 

[Wrench]

This is how you win the game.

 

[Tod osier]

This is how you win the game.View attachment 473446

I've had a craigslist search going for 2+ years. I know I could find something if I really started searching used food service equipment places, but I'm not going there to get one palleted up and freighted.