Looking for Tips and Tricks for Butchering a Moose

[Wolf-killer]

I have found that using the Outdoor Edge Zip
Pro will open a moose hide like a zipper, it’s fast and get minimal hair on meat. I also do the dorsal cut as it’s supper easy

 

[medvedyt]

i prefer the EKA original version of it but i cannot soure where the gen4 from EKA is made ... this is a great concept and works great at lwast with me. the zipper is useful and i can even open the cavity of bears with it.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

As to AKBC's preference for start skinning from the belly, to each his own when it works well. However, from the belly cut moving blades toward the spine (shoulder and neck cuts to the hide) you'll get a lot of hair cut and deposited on your exposed meat UNLESS you are diligent with keeping your blade UNDERneath the hide as you slice it open. The average hunter make these cuts faster than they should and blindly cut hair along the way. Alternatively, starting on the top spine moving from head to tail and from spine to hooves keeps your blade moving with the hair grain vs against it, resulting in way less hair deposits on meat. Just a 2-penny observation.

Interesting, maybe I’ll try it this year. I usually just cut hand holds and pull the hide away as I cut, I don’t seem to have much of an issue with hair.

 

[AKDoc]

As to AKBC's preference for start skinning from the belly, to each his own when it works well. However, from the belly cut moving blades toward the spine (shoulder and neck cuts to the hide) you'll get a lot of hair cut and deposited on your exposed meat UNLESS you are diligent with keeping your blade UNDERneath the hide as you slice it open. The average hunter make these cuts faster than they should and blindly cut hair along the way. Alternatively, starting on the top spine moving from head to tail and from spine to hooves keeps your blade moving with the hair grain vs against it, resulting in way less hair deposits on meat. Just a 2-penny observation.

What you're describing and recommending LB is exactly what I do as well, and it works really well.

I'll add that I always wear a fillet glove (cut-proof glove) on my hand that's not holding the knife...and that has saved me from countless cuts.

I've also become very rigid in assuring that I always have a designated set of rubber gloves for ONLY handling the hide and I NEVER touch meat with those gloves during the field butchering process. I may have learned that from you LB or trial and error, but it sure helps keep the rut smell that's within the hide from becoming part of the meat.

Doing a moose is a big job, but don't get into a race to get it quickly done. As noted by Scottf270…be safe and work carefully with your hunting partner. Take multiple short breaks to just stand-up from the carcass for a few minutes and then get back to it.

Responsible meat retrieval and care are top priorities for me…and I know that you guys share those values.

 

[Mykolaivka887]

Doing a moose is a big job, but don't get into a race to get it quickly done.

No truer words than these /\/\/\ have ever been said .......

 

[AK4570]

I've had the dubious privilege of recovering well into the double digits of road killed moose for a charity in AK. When you're trying to get a partially frozen carcass broke down while also dodging the odd, angry semi, you'll take any shortcut available. Instead of the "zipper" or any other made to order blade (dorsal incision as well as any other skin cuts), we use a hooked utility knife blade.



When it gets dull, you slap a new one in and keep rolling. These have earned a spot in my backcountry kill kit ensconced in an ultralight folding utility knife. Try it... I guarantee you'll like it!

The best thing to have handy when breaking down a moose though, is help. Lots and lots of help. Bring a couple friends. Have them bring their friends... You get the idea.

Best regards,
John

 

[bmrfish]

My only tip is try not to shoot him next to a lake he can jump in

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[AK4570]

My only tip is try not to shoot him next to a lake he can jump in

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Truth!

 

[Erebor]

I found a small block and tackle that isn't more than 25 feet of 3/8" rope and two pulleys. Maybe a pound total. Worth its weight in gold. Wouldn't solo moose hunt w/o it. I tie to front upper elbow, skin and remove that. Tie next to rear upper quarter, skin and remove that. Next I remove upper backstrap, ribs and tenderloins. Then I can roll him over, using block and tackle if necessary and repeat.

 

[medvedyt]

I found a small block and tackle that isn't more than 25 feet of 3/8" rope and two pulleys. Maybe a pound total. Worth its weight in gold. Wouldn't solo moose hunt w/o it. I tie to front upper elbow, skin and remove that. Tie next to rear upper quarter, skin and remove that. Next I remove upper backstrap, ribs and tenderloins. Then I can roll him over, using block and tackle if necessary and repeat.

depending the strenght of your pulleys and the rope. too light and it might broek at the worst moment,

 

[northernmadman]

I found a small block and tackle that isn't more than 25 feet of 3/8" rope and two pulleys. Maybe a pound total. Worth its weight in gold. Wouldn't solo moose hunt w/o it. I tie to front upper elbow, skin and remove that. Tie next to rear upper quarter, skin and remove that. Next I remove upper backstrap, ribs and tenderloins. Then I can roll him over, using block and tackle if necessary and repeat.

I purchased one, 9 pulley’s and 110 feet of 3/8’s climbing rope. My sister who weighs in at 120lbs pulled her bull out of the lake on her own. Well part way, we didn’t just stand and watch for too long. Amazing tool and a game changer for us at the cabin

 

[AKDoc]

All the components for a complete z-drag system are ALWAYS with me on floats and moose hunts in wet areas. Sometimes I bring additional pulleys for a compound z-drag system. I usually don't need any of it...thankfully said. However, when I have, it is priceless...my hunting partner and I pulled a bull out of a lake with a z-drag.

Learn how to build one and how to tie Prusik knots...and always bring it with you.

 

[goodlife]

I usually start by skinning and getting the meat apart to cool. Usually have a tarp to set the clean meat on. I work on one side at a time. Working by yourself makes it tough. The last moose I had to back pack out was solo and I just separated it all out and then began boning all the meat out to be put into individual loads in game bags.


Last moose done in the boat was in a muddy area, so I quartered with the hide on to keep the meat clean. Skinned out the rest of the animal to cool. The quarters were hung up later that evening and skinned out. Keeping the hide on when it is muddy or in the boat won't hurt, but good a idea to get the hide off asap.

 

[AKBC]

I watched a moose hunting video this morning and the slob put his foot on the skinned backstrap/ribs to help pull the rear quarter back so his buddy could cut. I am really shocked how little care some people use when butchering food.

 

[william schmaltz]

I watched a moose hunting video this morning and the slob put his foot on the skinned backstrap/ribs to help pull the rear quarter back so his buddy could cut. I am really shocked how little care some people use when butchering food.

Ah yes, peak influencer/YouTube star is when they are waxing poetically about the most valuable part of the hunt being the wild organic meat while the rain is washing all the poop and swamp bacteria down the hoof still attached to the quarters and into the game bag.

X2 on the outdoor edge doing a hair free dorsal dip in about 30 seconds.

These plastic drop cloths are what I use instead of a tarp. The 9x12 weigh nothing, cost a few bucks, are the size of a beer bottle, and are large enough to place a whole moose on and still have half to fold over to keep rain off if butchering/packing in the rain. Just toss em once back to camp. Typically have a couple regular tarps back at camp to then protect meat from rain and sun if needed.

 

[AK4570]

One of my earliest (teenager in N Ontario) moose memories involves 2 !! Moose in a lake/beaver pond and a Canadian gentleman with a chainsaw.

Regular bar oil, in case you were wondering.

Hair on, chainsawed into 4 semi-equal pieces each (minus heads). Each "quarter" was tied to a spruce pole with one of us at each end. 2.5 miles of muskeg to get them to the extraction point. I was an 18 year old farm kid and thought I was tough. Nope.

Almost 30 years later and I still think I'm sore from that one.

Best regards,
John

 

[thinhorn_AK]

One of my earliest (teenager in N Ontario) moose memories involves 2 !! Moose in a lake/beaver pond and a Canadian gentleman with a chainsaw.

Regular bar oil, in case you were wondering.

Hair on, chainsawed into 4 semi-equal pieces each (minus heads). Each "quarter" was tied to a spruce pole with one of us at each end. 2.5 miles of muskeg to get them to the extraction point. I was an 18 year old farm kid and thought I was tough. Nope.

Almost 30 years later and I still think I'm sore from that one.

Best regards,
John

I’ve also been a part of a double moose kill, that is tough stuff.

 

[cnelk]

One thing we’ve done is designate one person to do the knife work and the other person to do the holding of legs and pulling of hide.

It’s dangerous to have two knives going at once.

 

[medvedyt]

All the components for a complete z-drag system are ALWAYS with me on floats and moose hunts in wet areas. Sometimes I bring additional pulleys for a compound z-drag system. I usually don't need any of it...thankfully said. However, when I have, it is priceless...my hunting partner and I pulled a bull out of a lake with a z-drag.

Learn how to build one and how to tie Prusik knots...and always bring it with you.

prusik knots is something to be trained and keep up on it or it might be lost but great to know for sure. any z drag system to recommend?

 

[AKDoc]

I researched the required components and spec’s and made my own setup. I used 8mm coordage (static), 5mm for the Prusik loops, and some webbing. I already had the pulleys and carabiners.