Loctite question for Form

[SDHNTR]

When you swap out a scope in the same ring set, do you bother trying to get the old dried Loctite out of the screw threads? If so how do you accomplish this? Or is it nothing to worry about and do you just drop a fresh dab a blue goo on and send it right back in the hole?

 

[MidGAHunter]

I dont want to answer for Form (he can do that) but I think I read elsewhere that he said he uses Brake clean or similar to remove what he can then proceeds with his mounting process.

 

[Brandon.miller.4]

Use a die and it will come right off. Easiest way by far.

 

[Formidilosus]

When you swap out a scope in the same ring set, do you bother trying to get the old dried Loctite out of the screw threads? If so how do you accomplish this? Or is it nothing to worry about and do you just drop a fresh dab a blue goo on and send it right back in the hole?

Generally spray with brake cleaner or use rubbing alcohol and wipe them quickly, reapply and torque.

 

[SDHNTR]

Generally spray with brake cleaner or use rubbing alcohol and wipe them quickly, reapply and torque.

Ok, I do the same but that still leaves dried residue left in the threads. I’ve never worried about it in the past, other than just making sure I’m not crossing threads, but was wondering if I should.

 

[SDHNTR]

Use a die and it will come right off. Easiest way by far.

That’s a great idea. Thanks! Anyone know what size and pitch Talley ring screws are? Rings, not bases.

 

[Brandon.miller.4]

That’s a great idea. Thanks! Anyone know what size and pitch Talley ring screws are? Rings, not bases.

Don't quote me but for the lightweights I believe they are 6-32

 

[Flyrodr]

As stated above, Loctite works best on clean threads, and there's no better way to clean them than with the correctly sized tap and die. Most any decent hardware or auto supply store sells individual taps and dies (if you'll not likely be using other sizes, since a kit is cheaper per size). If you're unsure of the size, just take one of the ring bolts to the store, and they'll have a size checker. A less expensive (but plenty good enough) tap and die (you'll want to clean both bolt and hole threads) shouldn't cost more than $10-$15. Do make sure that there's no residual oil on the threads. Watch out what thread cleaner you use; some are pretty nasty (carcinogenic, etc.).

And use blue Loctite (not the too-strong for this application red), either the liquid or stick. And do let it set up for the recommended time before using.

(And, yes, I have many tear-jerking stories - - - many not firearms-related) about failures resulting from ignoring steps and/or rushing the process.)

 

[Wrench]

Be careful when you run taps and dies from cheap brands. You csn end up doing more harm than good if you're on the wrong end of tolerance.

Fasteners only engage to a max of 1.5x the major dia which still leaves room at the root.

In English, as long as the faces at the pitch diameter are clean, an anaerobic threadlock will set just fine.

If the screw goes in and out of the hole you're installing it in, and there's no oil in it.... wipe the flakes off and rock on.

 

[Bob2650]

I want to get rid of the oil so the fresh locktite will bond properly. I do not get OCD on the old locktite residue as long as I know it was clean (no oil residue) when it was put on. Extra wear and tear on those tiny threads cleaning it out with a tap? Only if I have to.

 

[SDHNTR]

Wow, old post. I’ve since found some CYA glue dissolver that works pretty well. I soak in that for a few min, hit it with a wire brush, blast with brake cleaner, dab a new drop of 242 and send it home. I don’t sweat a little left over residue.

 

[Bob2650]

242 is a medium strength. If you have a medium strength application then try 243, it is oil tolerant.
I use 222 purple. It is a low strength intended for tiny screws. Using a snap-on torque driver and 222 I never have problems with loose scopes or mounts.

 

[JohnDough]

What is the rationale for using loctite on this joint? The tube of the scope provides constant tension which is calculated to resist vibration, and, to whit, I have not heard of correctly torqued rings loosening, much in the same way I have not heard of AR15 barrel nuts or mount-to-rail loosening. It is a "solid" joint that needs threadlocker, such as M700 bases, etc. where there is no wedge effect but just two flat surfaces and a screw too small to properly effect bolt-stretch sufficient to retain.

 

[6.5x284]

I use a dremel with the thin plastic brush head and it knocks it out in about a second each screw. Then degrease, dry, and reinstall.


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