Light Weight Scope Help - Dependable Elevation Dialing

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Benjblt

Benjblt

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There is a guy that makes spacers to make a zero stop for that scope. You’ll have to find him with a google search. The info is on another forum and I can’t remember which.


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I saw that some one had a specific aftermarket spacer too when I was doing research. I can't remember where it was either.
 

nobody

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They don't get bumped easily?
I'm sure it could theoretically happen, but the turrets are extremely stiff and I don't see how it would move more than a couple clicks, which you would just then turn the couple of clicks back to zero. My CDS dial on the Leupold I used to run moved WAY easier than the SWFA turrets do. I also pack the rifle and store it with a neoprene skope coat to protect it, so that adds another layer of protection.
 
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Benjblt

Benjblt

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SWFA 3-15 would be my suggestion. As mentioned above, you're looking for a Unicorn (as are the rest of us). But this one is in stock, and will be easy to sell on the secondary market if you ever decide to change out.

Is the reticle on the 3-15 much finer than the 3-9? I'm debating putting the 3-9 on backorder and getting the 3-15 in the meantime.
 

nobody

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Is the reticle on the 3-15 much finer than the 3-9? I'm debating putting the 3-9 on backorder and getting the 3-15 in the meantime.
Same reticle. It's FFP so at like magnifications, the reticle will be the same size between the two.
 

fwafwow

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Here’s what I came up with for the SWFA 3-15 -
Post in thread 'Swfa 3-15 is legit'
https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/swfa-3-15-is-legit.288036/post-2870851

The guy online who sells the kits is also referenced in that thread.

I also have a 6x and 3-9 and at some point I will get around to figuring out the shims for a homemade zero stop.
The same shims/washers that work with the 3-15 also work with the 6x. They don't work with the 3-9, but I will make another trip to Ace at some point and figure out the sizing for it.
 

Kenai_dtracker

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I've always had leupold, but recently ended up buying my first Trijicon and got the 3-9 credo. It's just a little heavier than the VX3, but man, what a scope! The turrets are capped, but if you are dialing in a shot, you have time to spin them off, if needed. The green MOA reticle is great, in my opinion.
 
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I have tried the SWFA 3-15 and the 3-9. I just dont like them. I went with a couple of Credos. I actually really like the Credo reticle.
 

PlumberED

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Have you thought about a Nightforce SHV 3-10 x 42? A little bit less power than you want & no Zero stop but they are solid scopes. They come with either a MOAR of duplex reticle. I think there’s one for sale in the classifieds.
 
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The reticle on the 2.5-10 is decent enough. I was easily able to use it to whack coyotes at 400 yards using the holdovers. I haven't used the Trijicons enough to say yay or nay. Only at the range.
 

sndmn11

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Benjblt

Benjblt

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Have you thought about a Nightforce 3-10 x 42? A little bit less power than you want & no Zero stop but they are solid scopes. They come with either a MOAR of duplex reticle. I think there’s one for sale in the classifieds.
Which one? The NXS? That's the one I was considering.
 

PlumberED

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School me on MOA vs Mil's. Which is better? I'm used to MOA so I'd lean toward that.
Which one? The NXS? That's the one I was considering.
Sorry I left out SHV in my original post. The Nightforce SHV 3-10 x 42 is a solid choice. It is dependable, tracks well and retains its zero. It is a good bit less expensive than the NXS and to my understanding is only available in MOA. The NXS is available in MOA or MIL and is definitely a step up in durability from the SHV line.

All my scopes are MOA (minute of angle). A MOA is 1” (1.047 to be exact) at 100 yards.

Maybe someone with a better understanding of the two systems can chime in with an explanation of how they work and how they differ from each other.
 

TxLite

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School me on MOA vs Mil's. Which is better? I'm used to MOA so I'd lean toward that.
There’s a pretty good thread on here about mils and how to use it.

As far as what’s being better that’s up to you. If I’m dialing, mils is the only answer (for me) because I can do math in tenths a lot easier than quarters.

Edit- here is the thread on how to use mils. Long story short, pick whatever works for you, learn how it works, and use it. Both do the same thing, just differently. Mils is generally measured in .1 and MOA is measured in .25. As stated above I personally find it easier to dial to and keep track in tenths.
 
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Loper

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One thing I’ve considered is getting a Trijicon Accupoint 3-9 (13.4 oz) and getting a custom turret on it. This would provide the reliability of Trijicon, lightweight, and ability to dial.
 

TxLite

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One thing I’ve considered is getting a Trijicon Accupoint 3-9 (13.4 oz) and getting a custom turret on it. This would provide the reliability of Trijicon, lightweight, and ability to dial.
Keep in mind if you’re a mil guy their turrets adjust in moa, even on the mil-dot reticle.

Also, when I spoke to Kenton about replacing my cap with an exposed turret on my 2.5-12.5, he said I’d essentially just be running my turret just as if it was uncapped so I didn’t see much value in it.
 
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Do you find the lack of zero stop on the SWFA to be a problem?
No problem at all. Easy and robust solution to use the shim kits, plastic washers, garden hose gaskets, or whatever else fits. Lots of videos and threads out there on the process. Or shoot me a pm and I can send some pics over.

SWFA turrets need to be turned deliberately; that is to say that they aren't that easy to ghost turn. Not saying it can't happen, just saying that it's not common and that it's definitely not a deal breaker. Even with a locking turret, It's good to get in the habit of frequently and near subconsciously checking that the elevation is on zero, anyway. I have a push - pull locking turret that has popped up via dragging it through heavy brush - had I not been in the habit of compulsively twisting on the turret to confirm it's on zero, it might have caused an issue.
 
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