Lift vs Mach 30 or ..

[mjspeers]

I’m a 29” draw, around 65lbs. I’m a whitetail hunter. And recently have started hunting in blinds as much as trees. Also turkey hunt from blinds.

I’m currently shooting a Phase4 33, tricked out with all the fancy Mathews accessories. It’s my first bow over 30” ata and also first time running a back bar. I’ve always thought a compact bow was better for what I do. I’m strictly a hunter and want to be proficient in high stress situations 40yds and in.

So here’s the rub. I think I went too fancy with the thing. It feels great but my pin tends to want to float low on me. And it’s long. I think I want to go back to a more compact, lighter bow, and dump the back bar.

I’ve seen all the reviews on the Mach 30. So I’m between that and a Lift 29.5. I’ve been a Mathews fanboy since I first started shooting them as a kid. I typically would expect 5-7yrs from a bow but I’m seriously considering changing out this year.

The big draw for me to the Lift would be to reuse all of the Mathews specific accessories where re-sale on those is probably not great. So the cost to change over is not nothing. And no where near me has a Mach30 in stock.

Or wait until the next round of bows come out. See what’s offered or pickup someone’s sloppy seconds.

What says the R’Slide?

 

[Zac]

Really either would be fine. I like your idea of moving all your accessories over. Really you can change the way your pin sits and reacts just by messing with stabilization. Also you probably aren't going to notice a big difference in a shorter ATA. In fact you will probably realize that you just shoot them worse. If it were me I'd keep what you have. You can ditch the back bar, or mess around with stabilizer set up to get it to do whatever you want. The extra 3 inches isn't going to hurt anything.

 

[mjspeers]

That’s not a bad idea. After turkey season I may mess around. The two others are shorter but also around a half pound lighter. I’ve got my sight (Fast Eddie XL) all the way out. I may try a lighter sight or bring the sight all the way. Dump the back bar. And see how it goes.

 

[Zac]

That’s not a bad idea. After turkey season I may mess around. The two others are shorter but also around a half pound lighter. I’ve got my sight (Fast Eddie XL) all the way out. I may try a lighter sight or bring the sight all the way. Dump the back bar. And see how it goes.

I would always suggest running your sight all the way in. Less torquey that way. Mathews have always been chunky. However I don't see any benefit in the ultra light rigs unless someone is back packing. It sounds like your just bored. That's the reason most of us buy new bows. If that's you it's totally fine. Just don't expect anything life changing by shooting something slightly smaller, or slightly newer.

 

[mjspeers]

Probably a lot of truth to that. I’m not too proud to admit that I get target panic. And it’s amplified on deer (not turkey for some reason). And my panic causes the pin to drop. I’m sure a specific bow isn’t the answer but it would be nice if it were.

 

[nphunter]

I switched from a Hoyt Carbon to a PSE Mach 34 and wish I would have switched a long time ago. I also quit shooting with a stabilizer and like a light bow.

I shot my RX4 well but always felt like I could shoot better with previous bows. I killed a lot of animals with the RX4 and it was plenty accurate for hunting. However, I swapped to the Mach 34 and I shoot it well more consistently. The bow is just way more forgiving than the RX4. It’s also 5” longer, 1” longer BH, wider limb pockets and lighter.

IMO stabilizers in general are more of a sales gimmick than an attribute for a hunting bow. Obviously they work or pros wouldn’t use them on the line. Personally they have never made a big enough accuracy difference for me at hunting ranges to justify the weight. If the first thing a person does is level their bubble every time they draw, it become a subconscious movement and just part of the shot anyway.

Stabilizers mask errors, if they make a big difference for a person it’s because they are doing something bin their shot that is torquing the bow. When first shooting my recurve I couldn’t get a bareshaft to fly straight. I put a stabilizer on and boom, perfect bare shaft flight, as I shot more and my form for better I slowly noticed my POI change. It was changing because I stopped torquing the bow as I learned to follow through and release more cleanly. I now shoot without a stabilizer and have great arrow flight.

Learn to shoot your bow well without a stabilizer and you will be better off. Take off that front and back bar and I bet that helps with the low pin float. That’s a lot of extra weight on your bow arm.

 

[rjley]

Absolutely go with the Lift. It’s a dream to shoot and saving on this accessories is no joke in price.

 

[ericacymcdonald]

I was looking at going to a carbon bow, I ended up buying the quiverizer. The weight saving by replacing my stabilizer with it got me to roughly the same weight of the carbon bow and saved me a bunch of money.

 

[Zac]

I switched from a Hoyt Carbon to a PSE Mach 34 and wish I would have switched a long time ago. I also quit shooting with a stabilizer and like a light bow.

I shot my RX4 well but always felt like I could shoot better with previous bows. I killed a lot of animals with the RX4 and it was plenty accurate for hunting. However, I swapped to the Mach 34 and I shoot it well more consistently. The bow is just way more forgiving than the RX4. It’s also 5” longer, 1” longer BH, wider limb pockets and lighter.

IMO stabilizers in general are more of a sales gimmick than an attribute for a hunting bow. Obviously they work or pros wouldn’t use them on the line. Personally they have never made a big enough accuracy difference for me at hunting ranges to justify the weight. If the first thing a person does is level their bubble every time they draw, it become a subconscious movement and just part of the shot anyway.

Stabilizers mask errors, if they make a big difference for a person it’s because they are doing something bin their shot that is torquing the bow. When first shooting my recurve I couldn’t get a bareshaft to fly straight. I put a stabilizer on and boom, perfect bare shaft flight, as I shot more and my form for better I slowly noticed my POI change. It was changing because I stopped torquing the bow as I learned to follow through and release more cleanly. I now shoot without a stabilizer and have great arrow flight.

Learn to shoot your bow well without a stabilizer and you will be better off. Take off that front and back bar and I bet that helps with the low pin float. That’s a lot of extra weight on your bow arm.

I'm trying to do this as well. I am wondering if a back bar ends up screwing more people up on up hill and down hill shots than just having a front bar that doesn't bias the bow on angles.

 

[TX_hunter]

I was looking at going to a carbon bow, I ended up buying the quiverizer. The weight saving by replacing my stabilizer with it got me to roughly the same weight of the carbon bow and saved me a bunch of money.

Now put the quivalizer on a carbon, and drop another pound!