Leupold Vs. Swarovski.....Yeah, another one.

My VX5 still works great, after 3 seasons on a hunting rifle. I don’t baby it, but I don’t drop it either. I do haul in around in the pickup, around my neck on the ATV, and raise/lower in/out if stands via rope, so it gets its share of lumps. As far I can tell the 0 hasn’t moved but I don’t shoot 100s of rounds through it either. Really my only complaint is the magnification and parallax adjustments are too stiff for my liking.

Anyway, a sample of one undrop tested VX5.
 
No, there's no functional difference in either one of them. They've both got decent "glass," and both have extremely poor mechanical function.

Check out the Nightforce NXS 2.5-10x42, or the Trijicon Tenmile 3-15x50. They'll track, return to zero, hold zero (I.E. no more wondering if your gun is still "on" after a slip on the hill or after bouncing around in the back of the pickup), and have solid glass.

Scopes are aiming devices, not observation devices. Get glass that's "good enough" to identify targets and rock solid internals. Neither one of those optics is what those of us on the 'slide would deem to be rock solid. Spend money on good glass for your observation optics (binos and spotter), but outside that, good glass doesn't matter if the guts don't work.

Read through this subforum with an open mind and it'll be eye opening:

https://www.rokslide.com/forums/forums/rifle-scope-field-evaluations.133/

But hey, I'm just some random guy on the internet.
I am going through the hell of scopes not holding zero which takes several range trips to isolate to a scope as loose rings, stocks etc can also be the issue. I think I will check out the scopes you recommended!
No, there's no functional difference in either one of them. They've both got decent "glass," and both have extremely poor mechanical function.

Check out the Nightforce NXS 2.5-10x42, or the Trijicon Tenmile 3-15x50. They'll track, return to zero, hold zero (I.E. no more wondering if your gun is still "on" after a slip on the hill or after bouncing around in the back of the pickup), and have solid glass.

Scopes are aiming devices, not observation devices. Get glass that's "good enough" to identify targets and rock solid internals. Neither one of those optics is what those of us on the 'slide would deem to be rock solid. Spend money on good glass for your observation optics (binos and spotter), but outside that, good glass doesn't matter if the guts don't work.

Read through this subforum with an open mind and it'll be eye opening:

https://www.rokslide.com/forums/forums/rifle-scope-field-evaluations.133/

But hey, I'm just some random guy on the internet.
Just bought a Tenmile to replace my Leupold that wouldn't hold zero.
 
Back
Top