No idea. That’s why I am going to keep shooting this and see what happens. If it loses zero, then good, learned something. If it doesn’t, then good, learned something.I've personally seen, actually in person not on the internet, 6 Mark 5's lose zero on known/good guns. I have zero experience with the newer Mark 4's...
Are there design differences in the Mark 4's from the Mark 5's to indicate they may be a better designed scope?
No idea. That’s why I am going to keep shooting this and see what happens. If it loses zero, then good, learned something. If it doesn’t, then good, learned something.
I have a year before this rifle will go hunting. There will be a lot more shooting it by then.
Have not. I can do that next time.Have you run a tall target test? I’d like to see that
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You could make this way less convoluted, if you were driving the rifle, instead of the rifle driving you. A zeroed scope puts holes in the delineated point of aim. I guess you could draw an actual point of aim on the target, after shooting. But it would be way better to just put the bullets in the bullseye. Not being a smart ass, and I do much appreciate the testing of this scope. But the target you posted looks exactly like targets I have shot, with scopes that lost zero.Inhale, slowly exhale, focus on sight alignment, trigger squeeze begins, time my trigger break with bottom of my exhale, shot goes off, small bump in sight picture, reticle after firing is low. Get sight alignment again, repeat. Realize the natural out of aim is low and I am forcing the rifle up by tightening my rear support hand.
Decide to reposition bags. Now rifle has a better natural point of aim. Reticle is staying centered without muscle tension. Repeat shooting sequence. Shots break, sight picture hops, lands back real close to the original plane. Barely have to shift body. Repeat shot sequence… etc etc
This is like arguing with Rain Man.