High consequence topic here gents.
There is flexible hose that comes with. How you put that in your tent idk.Yeah, and how exactly do you vent it to the outside? Is there like a flexible exhaust hose you stick out the tent door and zip up around it?
I vote for a non-CO heating source as suggested in several other comments. I've got a real sad story to share about this. One of my colleagues, a great guy if a bit absent-minded, took his scout troop camping years ago. It was a cold day so he inflated his air mattress with exhaust from a truck. The kids found him dead of CO poisoning in his tent in the morning - of course, the mattress had a slow leak.Looking at the weather I’m about to free my twig and berries this weekend. Rather than the wall tent and wood stove I’m thinking truck and buddy heater. I’d like to wake up in the morning so I’m looking at a battery operated carbon monoxide detector…
Does it matter which one? Do I put it on the floor or ceiling? I believe floor. I plan on opening both side windows to create a cross draft, but I’m not sure if I need to crack 1/2” or 3”.
Any other tips and tricks?
This is the one I was eyeing.
You can leave the entire unit outside and just pump in the hot air with a vent hose. Lots of YouTube videos out there showing exactly how it works… it’s not complicated.Yeah, and how exactly do you vent it to the outside? Is there like a flexible exhaust hose you stick out the tent door and zip up around it?
Exactly.Not a chemist, but as I understand it the issue arises when you use it in a small enclosed space like a tent without the vents open or a sealed up truck camper. In that environment, where you and the heater are both eating through the available oxygen, the burning becomes inefficient and CO levels rise. Like you, I wouldn't sleep with one.
A friends uncle just died in WY last week due to this topic while hunting. Fell asleep solo in a trailer with heater going. I don't have particulars other than his hunting partner left the day before and it was propane heat.
Very real consequences
Sorry to disagree, but the specific gravity of CO is 0.9675, which is slightly lighter than the specific gravity of air which is 1. Further, CO is generally generated by heating equipment (such as Buddy Heaters) that generate warm air, which rises.CO is heavier than air, so the CO detractor should be mounted close to the floor. The Kidde CO detectors in my house are sensitive to CO and seem to work well. I’d suggest buying a battery powered Kidde CO detector. Even with a CO detector I would be leery of using a LP heater in an enclosed space.
Same incident, I was mistaken, he was not aloneNot sure if it's the same incident as TSAMP referred to, but there were 2 guys died last week west of Cody from CO poisoning. One was a pastor in town, the other a taxidermist. Don't know the specifics, but believe it was in a camp trailer of some type.
I stand corrected, I always thought CO was heavier than air. Thank you.According to the internet:
"Carbon monoxide is lighter than air. It also rises with warm air, so the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends placing a carbon monoxide detector on a wall about five feet above the floor or about eye level. You can put them on the ceiling, too."
In my converted cargo trailer I have Dickenson fireplace (sealed with fresh air intake and exterior exhaust) but for peace of mind I have a propane detector low to the ground and a CO detector on the wall about a foot from the ceiling.
A 1000w heater really won't do much. Then there's the fact that a fairly large power station would only give an hour of heat, then take 4-5 hrs to recharge with a generator. Most portable solar panels are only 100w or so in direct sunlight.Why not a battery bank and an electric heater. Get something that you can charge with a solar panel so it extends the battery life.