Knife/tool sharpener

[Perrin713]

Anyone have input on a good stay at home in my shop knife/tool sharpener? I currently have a Work Sharp sharpener but I do not care for it. I don’t mind spending $ on a high end sharpener for knifes and tools for my workshop.

 

[Fast_Hand84]

Anyone have input on a good stay at home in my shop knife/tool sharpener? I currently have a Work Sharp sharpener but I do not care for it. I don’t mind spending $ on a high end sharpener for knifes and tools for my workshop.

I’ve tried a bunch, and I’m back with a Lansky diamond setup…pretty happy with it. If you search “Lansky Mods”, some members of the knife-nut crowd came up with a few simple tips & tweaks to the Lansky system (truing up the rods, changing clamp screws out, etc) that have given me impressive results.

Also, I would recommend spending the extra $ for the diamond hones. I have both The standard and the diamond hones, and the diamonds *really* speed up the sharpening process (especially with some of the more exotic blade materials). They also seem to remain flat, whereas the standard hones have a tendency to wear into a concave shape over time.

 

[tony]

Might look at the Spyderco system

You have the power work sharp system? What don't you like about it? I'm wanting one

 

[Kobuk]

I own a bunch of different sharpeners myself, including the work sharp, spiderco, original lanskey, several stones etc. They all work and some better at different things. I bought an Edge Pro Apex sharpener 5-6 years ago and I really love it. Since I like high carbide blades, I have some diamond stones for it. The newer lanskey system with diamond plates would work good too but the Apex system will sharpen a wider variety of knives a little easier. I can also sharpen sissors and other tools like wood chisels and hand plane blades. It can be setup a lot more precise than my others. You could also go up to the Wicked Edge sharpener but I don't have any input because I haven't used one, it's way out of my price range and not sure how it would do with non knife blades. For knives, it sounds like it works pretty awesome. Once you get a proper edge on your knife, you can usually just strop until you damage your edge. There again if you use high carbide blades (s30v, m390, elmax, s90v, etc) you will need diamond paste for your strop.

 

[TSAMP]

Bump on this. I'm considering a different sharpener. I have a worksharp and it gets them sharp but not as sharp as I'd like. It seems like it's probably the user but looking for something simple.

Any electric 3 stage ones folks like?

 

[Marbles]

I use stones and a strop. You could try stropping after using the worksharp as it does not sound like you want to fool with bench stones.

 

[mgray34]

Best one I've found is Wicked Edge

 

[snowymtnwolf]

I gotta follow this. I’m terrible with sharpening knives and I’ll checked out a few sharpeners at Scheels and get overwhelmed picking from a bunch of diff ones so I always walk out without one every time.


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[Louro]

I use stones and a strop. You could try stropping after using the worksharp as it does not sound like you want to fool with bench stones.

What he say. Exactly what I do and I'm able to get a razor sharp edge.

 

[Wrench]

Paper wheel and tormek are the ticket.

 

[rclouse79]

I landed on worksharp after trying a couple others. Maybe this is just a testament to my poor knife sharpening skills, but I got the sharpest edge with a worksharp in a tenth the time. The only thing I had to learn with the worksharp was not to run the blade all the way past the belt with the medium grit. That will make pointy things round.

 

[TSAMP]

I landed on worksharp after trying a couple others. Maybe this is just a testament to my poor knife sharpening skills, but I got the sharpest edge with a worksharp in a tenth the time. The only thing I had to learn with the worksharp was not to run the blade all the way past the belt with the medium grit. That will make pointy things round.

I think I check the box of poor sharpening skills. I am probably not patient enough with the Worksharp, and likely rounding my edge, it seems like I can do ok with a course belt and a preliminary edge. As soon as I start going down to fine belts it seems like I lose it.

 

[intunegp]

TsProf is one of the best if you really want to spend money for a guided sharpening system that will last a lifetime. Wicked Edge are also popular for being able to sharpen both sides of the knife at once.

 

[Marbles]

I think I check the box of poor sharpening skills. I am probably not patient enough with the Worksharp, and likely rounding my edge, it seems like I can do ok with a course belt and a preliminary edge. As soon as I start going down to fine belts it seems like I lose it.

So, start with a course belt and being careful to hold an angle progress to the fine belt.

Once done with the fine belt, strop using green past being careful to keep the same angle.

Once the edge is polished (about 10-20 strokes per side) make your angle a touch steeper and go for 5 strokes on each side to set a micro secondary bevel.

Unless the edge is completely screwed up or needs the shoulders reground, the entire process should be less than 10 minutes (assuming belts are not a pain to change).



Secondary beveles make the edge more durable and make sharpening a lot easier. Without setting a secondary bevel I have a hard time getting my knives sharp enough to cut even a few hairs (sloppy free hand angle holding), with a secondary bevel they shave almost as well as a properly sharpened straight razor.

 

[EdP]

I use stones and a strop. You could try stropping after using the worksharp as it does not sound like you want to fool with bench stones.

A Sharpal diamond stone and diamond slurry on a leather strop is the ticket for me. It will get a knife where you can wipe the hair off your arm. After buying an Sv30 knife that I could not get sharp on my Arkansas stone, I went with the diamond stone and strop and have been very happy since. I rarely have to put a knife on the stone to resharpen. 20 strokes on the strop will usually do it.

 

[TSAMP]

So, start with a course belt and being careful to hold an angle progress to the fine belt.

Once done with the fine belt, strop using green past being careful to keep the same angle.

Once the edge is polished (about 10-20 strokes per side) make your angle a touch steeper and go for 5 strokes on each side to set a micro secondary bevel.

Unless the edge is completely screwed up or needs the shoulders reground, the entire process should be less than 10 minutes (assuming belts are not a pain to change).

View attachment 577737

Secondary beveles make the edge more durable and make sharpening a lot easier. Without setting a secondary bevel I have a hard time getting my knives sharp enough to cut even a few hairs (sloppy free hand angle holding), with a secondary bevel they shave almost as well as a properly sharpened straight razor.

Belts are simple to change, a few seconds. The worksharp is designed to sharpen on a convex angle, so in my experience with their guide system you can end up doing all the work on the shoulder, or primary bevel on your visual if your not careful. I started using a sharpie on the secondary bevel to insure thats where I'm removing material.

I'll give this another run though. I think im just looking for the easy button.

 

[wy_will]

I was using an Edge Pro Apex, but now I use the Tsprof. A great sharpener. Chose it over Wicked Edge for the ease of doing longer blades. I mostly use it for high end kitchen knives.

 

[dtrkyman]

I suck at sharpening, have had my best luck with wet sand paper glued to a piece of trim board, have 4 grits and then I finish with an old leather belt.

Paper is cheap and you can change it out as needed.

 

[TSAMP]

So, start with a course belt and being careful to hold an angle progress to the fine belt.

Once done with the fine belt, strop using green past being careful to keep the same angle.

Once the edge is polished (about 10-20 strokes per side) make your angle a touch steeper and go for 5 strokes on each side to set a micro secondary bevel.

Unless the edge is completely screwed up or needs the shoulders reground, the entire process should be less than 10 minutes (assuming belts are not a pain to change).

View attachment 577737

Secondary beveles make the edge more durable and make sharpening a lot easier. Without setting a secondary bevel I have a hard time getting my knives sharp enough to cut even a few hairs (sloppy free hand angle holding), with a secondary bevel they shave almost as well as a properly sharpened straight razor.

In an effort to catch up on things. I'll update all. I took this advice and generally just took my time with the worksharp and was able to achieve very good results. I worked my way across about 4 different grits and am happy with the blade edge.

 

[shtrbc]

I will throw the KME sharpener into the mix also. Guided system that is well made in the USA and well supported also. His broadhead sharpener and axe sharpening guide work really well too. I also own the Worksharp and variety of other sharpeners over the years. The KME gives me the highest quality, most consistent, and also repeatable edge I have found. My 2 cents...